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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck doesn't go when I press accelerator...

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ABS clunk when key on

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Video of "Death Wobble"

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over the past week, this has happened 5 times. I am usually cruising along about 35 mph, not speeding up or slowing. I will try and speed up slightly but the truck doesn't accelerate. After pressing more and more it will finally go. Then this am I coast down my driveway (it's about 1/4 mile long downhill) I pull out onto the street and the truck won't accelerate, staying below 10mph. I pull in another driveway just passed mine and restart truck, everything works fine.



I'm thinking it's pump related, hoping it's not transmission. What you fella's think?



:mad:
 
Check your codes by turning the key on and off three times leaving it in the on position on the third time. The codes should appear in the mileage window. The APPS might be to blame??
 
Yes, check for codes. If you get a 0216 (injection pump timing failure), your VP 44 is likely on it's way out.



This symptom you describe is common with that code. Also, in my case it became more frequent, and eventually included poor throttle response from a dead stop, which can be scary when entering traffic... . 0 to 40 in ~25 seconds.



To reset your APPS disconnect the negative battery cables for an hour or so... . I did it all night. Hook them back up, turn the key on, press the accelerator pedal SLOWLY to the floor and back three times. Start and drive the truck as normal. That might be all that's wrong.
 
One of the simplest and cheapest mods you can do to your 2001 is to add a fuel pressure gauge. I had mine fail at about 18K.



I hope it's not your VP44, but if your lift pump has been bad for a while, it may have killed it. Good luck... :(
 
Yep..... I got 1693 and 0216. Still try the APPS? It's going to the *tealer tomrrow regardless.



And may get sold soon. Ridiculous to have a problem like this occur so common in our trucks.



I just hope DC will pay for it.



:mad: :mad:
 
If you take it to the dealer, take the edge out, and if you still have the Velcro on the power distribution block lid take it off too, or maybe trade it with someone without Velcro on theres. I know here at my dealer the "smart techs" can tell if there has been a box by the parameters left in the cummins control module and the Velcro left on the lid. I would also take both negative battery cables off for a few hours and "reset" all the sensors, and parameters in the truck. Just my 2 cents, all that stuff will hopefully help make warranty issues move more smoothly.



- Justin
 
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