Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck down, to wrench or not to wrench

[tolmsted]

My baby is sick.

The seal behind the engine front gear case is leaking oil and must be replaced. My Cummins Dealer says, $2300-$2500 and 3 days.

Last week I removed the radiator, front assembly, gear cover etc and replaced the crank seal and put it all back together thinking that the RTV sealant and/or crank seal was the problem. I finely got everything all squeaky clean up front. Start the engine and in 5 minutes the oil leak reared it's ugly head.

I have the service manuals and have been reviewing the procedure and know about having to remove the camshaft but I'm confused about the vacuum pump removal. The book says the pump is bolted to the block but it looks like it is bolted to the back of the gear case. If it is bolted to the block are the front bolts to the gear case just to hold it all together? Can the vacuum pump/power steering unit stay in place during the gear case removal? That would sure help make the work a lot easier. Any thoughts and/or advice would be helpful.


Thanks in advance.
Tom

 

[TMilliard]

As far as I know the vacuum pump assembly is just bolted to the front gear case, there may be a support bracket bolted to the block but I dont think so. I have to pull my Pump this week to try to re-seal it with Gould Electrics seal kit, I'll let you know as soon as I pull it.

 

[Missouri Mule]

On 96 you have to remove inboard nut that attaches adapter to steering pump. "This nut secures a small braket to engine block". The bracket and nut have to come off before vacuum and power steering pump can be removed.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Could it be possible that it's just the bolts securing the gearcase to the block are loose - and a complete disassembly is not necessary? I've never heard of a gasket failure in that area...

 

[TMilliard]

Is it a paper gasket or an o-ring seal

 

[BBliss]

paper gasket

 

[rotohead]

When removing the vacuum pump/ps pump unit I found it easier to leave the rear support bracket on the block and just remove the nut (one of four that holds the ps pump onto the rear of the vacuum pump). That way when you replace the unit it's not that difficult to postion it thru that bracket and it helps hold the weight of that thing up when you thread the two bolts into the block. Worked that way best for me. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
Chuck

 

[tolmsted]

In the middle of tear down now. UPDATE.

Oh yea it's the gear case seal behind the case. Local Cummins dealer said they have done a lot of them in the past.

I started Saturday with my tear down. ARB bumper w/12m lb winch. Really not very bad to remove. I removed both batteries and trays and glad I did, so I can clean. You would be amazed. Remove fan and shroud. Drain radiator/remove. Remove inter-cooler and AC fins. NOTE: I saved freon.
Top cross bar to fenders and brace etc. Belt, pulleys etc. Case cover.

Remove throttle assemble, intake air housing. Etc.
Vacuum pump/steering assemble are bolted to the back of gear case and small bracket to the block. Removed VP44 gear and VP44. Back bolts and small bracket to block.

Remove wiper blade and black plastic cowling. Remove 2 rubber plugs ( save to re-install later) in metal cowling over #6 cylinder. Holes are to remove the #6 push rods.

Remove red heater hose @ block top passengers side so you have clearance to remove valve cove to the side. Remove valve cover. Remove rocker arms and push rods.

For those who do not know, you must remove the cam shaft in order to remove the gear case.
The good book ( Factory service manuals) says to use wood dowels to lift the tappets up. but does not say what diameter wood dowel. I called Cummins and was able to talk to Mark. He is the Field Service Manager and is a great guy and very helpful. He said to use a 3/8" dia, by 12" long piece of dowel and taper one end and then with a hack saw to cut a slot in the taper end about 1/2" deep.

Tomorrows work:
Gentlely tap the tapered dowel end into each tappet and then you can lift the tappet up. Whee! The good book says to hold the tappets up with rubber bands around adjoining dowels. NOW YOU CAN REMOVE the camshaft.

Thanks fellows for posting your comments. After I started this thread I was counting views with no replies. I stopped looking at about 75 views. I thought no hope for help, but you fellows came through and restored my faith in the TDR membership. Thank you very much.

Gary-K7GLD, RE:Loose bolts. At this time I can only see two torx cap screw left of large center gear.
THE TOP SCREW IS USED BY SOME OWNERS TO TAB THE KDP and the bolts are not loose. MY dowel pin is ok.

It looks to me that above this area of the case that some of the red gasket material is missing, as this is the area of my oil leak. I'll let you know tomorrow what I find.

I'm hoping this experience will be of help to other TDR members.
I'll post more tomorrow.

TOM

 

[socalmat]

That is exactly what I would have done!

 

[Partyat33]

The dowels work pretty well. I tapped them in tight, as you don't want them to fall. Rubber bands work pretty well. The cam is pretty long and needs some wiggling to get out. As long as you are at it I would check/replace the camshaft thrust bearing. Its like a 5 dollar item. Also prelube the cam when it goes back in with assembly lube. And of course check your timing marks.

 

[Partyat33]

Also, when you put the front cover on you want to replace the front seal. Be careful, mine leaked and I had to take the whole front of the truck back apart. But it was worth it to fix the leak.