Truck go's in and out of lockup

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My 94 auto 2wd keeps going in and out of lockup after it's warmed up. It seems to go into lockup too soon when it's cold. It won’t go into OD when I'm heavy on the throttle. I replaced the transmission temp sensor and TPS. Can’t stand the thought of taking it to the dealer #ad
. Anybody have any ideas.

 

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Try adjusting the kick down cable. This is kind of a PITA to do. It's easier with a small C-clamp (1 1/2") to hold the cable button depressed.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Did you also adjust the TPS to 1 volt + or - . 02 volts at idle and 2. 3-2. 7 volts higher at WOT?
Paul R. Haller

 

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The tps sensor is bad.

 

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Had a similar problem with the lock-up, After some checking, found out that engine temp has to around 190 before lock-up occurs. Put in new thermostat and it worked like a charm. This was on a '95'. Apparently the old thermostat wasn't up to snuff. Who Knows.

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Make sure the brake light switch is adjusted right. Depress brake pedal, grasp switch plunger and pull out towards brake pedal. It will self adjust. Odds are this ain't it but its cheap and easy to try (and mine did it).
If you have cruise, and it works OK, this isn't the problem.
Good Luck.

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'94 3500 4x4, 201,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (currently under remodification), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"

 

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Jim Palahniuk, I’ve had problems with the engine temp since day one. Never could get it above 150-160 unless towing. I’ve put many thermostats in it and never seems to make a difference. My truck was built in sept. of 93 and I’ve been told that was a "*******" #ad
year by some mechanics and that make me wonder if maybe I’m getting the wrong thermostat. Nevertheless, I'll install another one just in case.

Does any body know how to test a TPS and can you rebuild them?

Thanks for all the help guys

Cliffman

 

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Cliffman,

I doubt that engine temp is the problem. Mine almost never gets to 190. Usually runs a lot cooler. It gets up to about 140 or so (these gages aren't exactly precise) before lock up occurs on the way to work in the morning. The transmission works fine after that. No problem at all like you have. The transmission temp sensor may have a problem. Mine started leaking and I changed it but it never affected operation. If the engine runs warmer that will affect the trans temp too since the ATF is cooled by two coolers. One of them is under the exhaust manifold and engine coolant is used to cool the ATF in it. Anyway, adjustments are the first thing to try. The kick down cable controls the TV valve in the valve body which affects pressure. Might not be the problem, but is cheap to try just in case.

 

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Cliffman sound like if u have the tps adjusted to around 1 volt you need to check you brake light switch. Your temp senser and cable adjustment will not be your cause of this problem.

 

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I had the same problem with my truck. After replacing the trans computer, TPS, trans temp sensor, i still had the problem. The electrical plug that goes into the trans temp was not getting a good connection. i took a small screwdriver and prized them in and haven't had anymore problems. It might work for you too. Nick
139,500 miles

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1995 Dodge Ram 2500, 4X4, White, Auto with Performance Torque Converter, lock up switch, 3. 54 gears, Psychotty air, Banks Power Pack, with Pyrometer and boost guages in pillar mount, HX40 turbo, 370hp injectors, Bullydog propane charged, No cat or muffler, 4" exhaust exits behind rear wheels thru 4" X 20" chrome tips, Go Rhino nerf bars, Wild Cat Flash Brush/Grill Guard with 2 150 watt 6" Eagle One lights tied into high beams, 5% tinted windows, Pioneer DEH 7200 CD player, 6 disc CD changer and 2 Memphis 3 way 6x9's and 1 Kove 12" with a Crossfire 404 amp, IDelta aluminum toolbox, Dodge bedliner, Heckethorn Nitro 9000 shocks and dual steering stabilizer, 16 X 8 Eagle Alloy 589 rims with 285/75/R16 Bridgestone Duelers M/T's, 16 X 8 Eagle Alloy 589 rims with 285/75R16 B F Goodrich A/T KO, New bed, front fenders and paint job due to some vandalism

 

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I am experiencing a similar problem, that has been recurring since late July. I was taking a trip from Atlanta to Montana, and somewhere in Kentucky the transmission felt like it was slipping. I continued to drive, as the problem only occurred ocasionally. I stopped in the ST. Louis area, and had a few Dodge shops check it out- one thought the fuel pump wasn't gettting enough fuel to the engine. No one could seem to duplicate the problem, so I returned home after changing the fuel filter and transmission fluid. During those 800 miles-in one day- I had no slipping problems. the local AAMCO couldnt figure it out. So, after reading many TPS posts, I sprayed WD40 on the sensor. Problem leaves for a few days, and returns periodically. So i kept dousing the sensor when slippage occured. Finally I replaced it with a !$150! TPS from dodge. the next day it slipped, and WD40 didnt seem to help much. Now I spray it with a silicon spray, and that has helped tremendously- it slips much less often. the brake light switch was replaced before this, and is adjusted periodically. I have not replaced the temp sensor, but have tried to make a tight connection with the screwdriver trick somebody mentioned. WOT appears to be correct, but I have not adjusted anything else. Is there something I missed in the service manual? It slips at random, but usually when I hit a bump on the interstate. Is the cummins tps better than dodge's? BTW, whats a kick down cable(from the second message)? the cruise control no longer works, but I think thats because I frayed a cable installing the tps. It used to work until the transmission slipped(unlocked), and then i could cut it back on after the clutch relocked. Does any one have ideas or suggestions? I'm trying to get everything straightened out on this truck. I want to sell it and buy a dually with a manual transmission(only because I need a bigger truck- this one has been a really good machine). I appreciate any help, yall are a great bunch.

andy

truck is a 96 2500, standard cab 4wd. 145000 miles. unbombed-cant afford it yet. my other truck is a 46 willys cj2a.

 

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willys Ihad the same problems as you have had so i took it to the dodge dealer to have it checked out. I found out that the convertor was weak there was some burned disks. In short a complete rebuild plus db convertor, other db parts were valve body, psi lock , autolock all of which will make the trans work better with the bd brake, with less heat. I only had 78000 mile on the trans. My advice if your going to get another truck get it don't dump any money in that truck so far its cost me 3200. bill

 

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Originally posted by Joe G. :
Try adjusting the kick down cable. This is kind of a PITA to do. It's easier with a small C-clamp (1 1/2") to hold the cable button depressed.

I have a 96 3500 that had the same problem. I found out that I had a defective brake light switch. I had the dealer install another one at the tune of 41. 00 Shortly there after I had an high idle problem. IT was solved with a new throttle cable that as my old one was frayed down to one strand. In putting the throttle cable in the mechanic broke the plastic that hold the tps. The bottom line was that the brake switch solved the OD lockup problem


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I have a 94 and had the same problem a couple of years ago. It was something in the transmission computer they changed out a chiip and it had worked great ever since. I think there was a Service bulletin put out on it. Hope this helps!!!

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1994 4X4 2500 Auto.
1998 Harley FXDS
1998 Harley Sportster 1200