truck jerks badly

[Smoker]

When I tow(cattle) with my 97' 5-speed, it will start to jerk and buck real bad. I have to completely let out of it and go again. Will stiffer throttle return springs cure this or is it the clutch. I am running one of Dave Mitchell's single disc truck pulling button clutches. The clutch does not have the springs around the hub like some clutches do(ex:the factory clutch). Could this also be my problem?

 

[R.ebel]

Normal for your year truck I've had the same problem from time to time.



If my memory serves me correctly there is a TSB addressing this problem. You can find it here http://dodgeram.org/



I've tried heavier return springs and they do help some.

 

[redram]

There is a recall on the throttle cable assembly. Check with your dealer.
There is also a TSB (Tech Service Bulletin) called 'bucking truck syndrome' that applies to your year.

Good luck.

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[C Schomer]

I've had the bucking warranteed. They changed pump linkage and springs. If I can find the TSB, I'll post it.

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, AFC kit, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Straight Thru Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, 24CKFS Sunnybrook, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!

 

[C Schomer]

It's TSB 18-29-97

 

[R.ebel]

Here is the text of the TSB,


Vehicle Bucking.

NO: 18-29-97 Rev. A

GROUP: Vehicle Performance

DATE: Dec. 5, 1997

SUBJECT:
Vehicle Bucking

THIS BULLETIN SUPERCEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 18-29-97, DATED OCT. 17, 1997 WHICH
SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL CHANGES ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**
AND INCLUDES CLARIFICATION FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION VEHICLES ONLY.

MODELS:
1996-1998 (BR/BE) Ram Truck

NOTE : THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO THE 5. 9L CUMMINS DIESEL **WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS
ONLY**.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicle bucking or jerking during steady state operation or mild acceleration.

DISCUSSION:
Some vehicles may exhibit a bucking or jerking condition while under light acceleration or while driving at steady state speeds.
The vehicle may be in a loaded or unloaded state when the bucking or jerking occurs. This condition results from the sensitivity
of the throttle linkage to driver input. If this situation is described by the owner, perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:

1 05011726AA Kit, Throttle Linkage

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This bulletin involves replacing the throttle linkage and levers with revised parts.

1.
Remove the air duct from the charge air cooler and intake manifold connection to gain access to the injection pump
linkage. Place a rag over the open intake to prevent foreign objects from entering.
2.
Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable (if equipped) from the front throttle bracket assembly.
3.
Remove the throttle control rod, front throttle bracket assembly, lever from injection pump arm, and all throttle return
springs. Discard all parts.
4.
From kit p/n 05011726AA, install the aluminum mounting block (Figure 1) to the injection pump arm using 2 bolts (M6 x
1. 25 x 20). The cutout will face outwards. Torque the bolts to 9 Nm (60 in. lbs. ).


5.
From kit p/n 05011726AA, install the new rear lever to the aluminum block using 2 bolts (M6 x 1. 25 x 16). The return
spring mounts should be pointing down with the long mount facing outboard (Figure 1).

NOTE : DO NOT TIGHTEN THE MOUNTING BOLTS FOR THE REAR LEVER AT THIS TIME.

6.
Install the 2 new throttle return springs from kit p/n 05011726AA to the rear throttle lever mounts and pump mounts
(Figure 2). No other springs are to be used with this installation.

NOTE : IF WORKING ON A 1996 VEHICLE, THE SPRING BRACKET (INCLUDED IN THE KIT) WILL BE
REQUIRED TO MOUNT THE SPRINGS TO THE PUMP (FIGURE 1). REMOVE THE LOWER BOLT FROM THE
TIMING PLUG HOLDER ON THE INJECTION PUMP (DO NOT DISTURB THE UPPER TAMPER PROOF
SCREW). INSTALL THE BRACKET TO THE LOWER HOLE USING 1 (M8 X 1. 25 X 22) BOLT. TORQUE THE
BOLT TO 14 NM (10 FT. LBS. ).

7.
Install one throttle ball stud, from the kit, to the new front throttle bracket assembly. The ball must face inboard when the
assembly is mounted in place. Torque the nut to 9 Nm (60 in. lbs. ).
8.
Snap the non-adjustable end of the throttle rod onto the front throttle bracket assembly and mount the assembly to the
fuel injection pump with the existing bolts. Torque the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs. ).
9.
The rear lever must be set to the proper orientation by using the 219. 9 mm gauge rod from the kit. Insert one end of the
gauge rod into the rear throttle lever ball stud hole and the other end of the gauge in the large square throttle valve cable
mounting hole in the front throttle bracket assembly (Figure 2). Make sure the injection pump lever remains seated against
the idle stop. Tighten the rear throttle lever mounting screws to 7 Nm (48 in. lbs. ). Remove the gauge rod.
10.
Install the remaining ball stud in the rear throttle lever. The ball should face outboard. Torque the nut to 9 Nm (60 in.
lbs. ).
11.
Snap the throttle rod onto the rear throttle lever ball stud.


12.
Adjust the throttle rod length to 126. 5 mm (5 in. ) as shown in Figure 3. The measurement should be taken from the
centerline of the front throttle lever ball stud and the front face of the bracket where the throttle cable mounts. Take up
any slack by pushing lightly on the front lever when taking the measurement.

NOTE : MAKE SURE THE FRONT LEVER DOES NOT GO OVER CENTER WHILE PUSHING LIGHTLY.

13.
After tightening the lock nut, operate the throttle and make sure there is no interference to the throttle rod. Make any up
or down adjustments by loosening the lock nuts and orientating the throttle rod as necessary. Re-tighten the lock nuts.
14.
Reinstall the throttle control cable and cruise control cable (if equipped).
15.
Make sure wide open throttle (WOT) can be obtained. Follow the procedures in the applicable service manual.
16.
Remove the rag at the intake and reinstall the duct to the charge air cooler and intake manifold. Torque the clamps to 8
Nm (72 in. lbs. ).

NOTE : MAKE SURE THE DUCT CLAMPS ARE TIGHT TO PREVENT TURBO BOOST LOSS.

POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

TIME ALLOWANCE:

Labor Operation No: 14-80-05-90 0. 6 Hrs.

FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part

 

[Bug Out]

Smoker1, I know exactly what your talking about. Whenever I'm towing the 5th wheel, if I hit a slight bump, or ever so lighty tap the accelerator out of sync with the forward motion, its starts the bucking non-sense.

I went to my local "Dodge dealer" in Brentwood and they wanted $400+ to do it. . No mention of a recall or warranty repair, even when i gave them the TSB#.

I do my best to keep a steady foot on the throttle to stop it and have become good at it... Its still a pain . .

Let me know if you get yours fixed.



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1997 3500 Dually CC, Emerald Green 5 speed, 4:10 , Reese 15K 5th hitch, K&N Air Filter re-installed, Jacob E-brake, gutted cat, running boards. 60 gallon Aux toolbox/tank combo. Maybe more,if I can keep it out of DC'$ hands. .

 

[C Schomer]

Different truck do it at differnet speeds! Mine only did it in 3rd gear. Once it started, it just got worse until I could hardly use 3rd anymore. The linkage fixed it 100%. The throttle is sorta wierd now. I get most of the fueling all of a sudden near the floor - took some getting used to.

 

[Hyper]

try teaching your wife to drive a stick when she has never been in one. I thought my truck was going to leave the ground it was bucking so hard... . simple fix... take your foot off of the pedal!!!!... when it bucks you mash the pedal and it is a continueing process. .

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1993 Dodge Prostock Daytona 7:70@172, 1987 Grand National 11:77@115, 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually. Stock with a 5 speed, Home page http://www.home.earthlink.net/~whra3