Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Truck loses power at 60 or when going up hill

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Servicing the nv4500

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission My front end is wobbly at slow speeds

Status
Not open for further replies.
My truck pulls great and has great power up until 60mph. Then it feels like momentum is the only thing that can make me go faster.

My truck is stock. Lately I have replaced-
Fuel filter, Oil filter
Pump timing
Fuel injectors
Rebuilt turbo
New lift pump
Fuel heater delete, new fuel elbow line
New overflow valve
Valve lash
Tps delete
Kdp

The truck smokes a little white when strating up and first putting it into gear
 
Last edited:
White smoke = air in fuel. Check all connections; as I recall there are about 20 of them between the fuel tank and injection pump and back to the pump. Have you replaced the fuel return line? Bad fuel return line will cause white smoke and hard starts.
 
When it is cold white smoke is normal until the engine comes up to temp. Witness the big trucks leaving the truck stops early in the morning.

I had a similar problem a couple summers ago. A smoke machine revealed a bolt that had vibrated out of the intake cover plate and a worn turbo wastegate actuator seal. Replacing the bolt gave me an immediate improvement, and replacing the wastegate actuator made the power better yet. However, since you recently played with the timing I would look there. If the pump shaft wasn't cleaned thoroughly the gear can slip and retard the timing.
 
One place to look for a fuel leak is the top of the tank where the lines come out of the sending unit. Both my 96 2500 and 97 3500 developed leaks there.
 
I ,hope .you have solved your problem by now if not there is a single black wire that comes out of the wire harness that I believe contains the wires for fuel shutdown sol. my truck isn't here otherwise I woud go outside and check the wire goes to the boost controller it is the only wire there.make sure the circuit is complete.i had the same problem in a 97 1 ton that is also stock except for a slight pump tweak.Keep it stock and if you can get a shop manual it will be the best moneyyou invested in your truck.Good in indicater if you have a boost gauge it will show no boost
 
I ,hope .you have solved your problem by now if not there is a single black wire that comes out of the wire harness that I believe contains the wires for fuel shutdown sol. my truck isn't here otherwise I woud go outside and check the wire goes to the boost controller it is the only wire there.make sure the circuit is complete.i had the same problem in a 97 1 ton that is also stock except for a slight pump tweak.Keep it stock and if you can get a shop manual it will be the best moneyyou invested in your truck.Good in indicater if you have a boost gauge it will show no boost

There is no wiring for boost control on a 12 valve
 
I just had a similar issue right around 2000rpm I picked up a whine that sounded like it was the pump or a fueling issue. It was om that side of the engine. Have just done a bunch of work but not fuel related. Looking it over today I found the boot right off the intake was really loose. Not falling off but I could move the pipe and boot a bit. All my boots and hoses are new Mr. Bobs so not a big surprise to have to tighten a few.

I thought for sure I was having some sort of pump issue. But could hear it right at 2000rpm pitch change.

Only issue now is at 50-55mph it likes to stay in 3rd gear running right around 2000rpm. It will go into OD, but completely different driving truck with that small adjustment.

If you figured it out let us know.
 
Bob I might be calling it the boost control and it might have a proper name but I do know for sure if this very small I think its a 22 gauge black single wire if it is broken you will have no boost and the conditions that will result are very similar as what was described if my truck was here I would take a picture and post it and then you would be able to tell him what the parts proper name is.
 
That would be the boost line from the turbo back to the air/fuel controller. Without boost, the AFC will not allow additional fuel and you'll be lucky to reach 60 MPH the same day.
 
Bob I might be calling it the boost control and it might have a proper name but I do know for sure if this very small I think its a 22 gauge black single wire if it is broken you will have no boost and the conditions that will result are very similar as what was described if my truck was here I would take a picture and post it and then you would be able to tell him what the parts proper name is.

Again not a wire,as Fester suggested a boost sense line runs to the afc to add fuel as boost pressure rises
 
Ok guys sorry for the late reply, so I have checked pump timing it's still all good. Funny enough an intercooler boot wasn't fastened down properly and blew off. I tightened it and I still have good power up until overdrive kicks in it loses all its power and the throttle no matter how much I push it dosent do anything. Also the truck sounds kind of angry. I don't know how to describe it, like its starving for fuel. I am replacing injectors tomorrow. I hope that's it. I need to get a fuel pressure gauge as well, just low on money. Cummins overhauls are expensive. Haha. Thanks for the advice guys.
 
Also, I'm thinkin about putting a beans diesel fuel sump on the tank and running a fuel line straight from the sump to the fuel heater to get better pressure and eliminate the other fuel lines from the mix. Is there a way I could do this?
 
Also, I'm thinkin about putting a beans diesel fuel sump on the tank and running a fuel line straight from the sump to the fuel heater to get better pressure and eliminate the other fuel lines from the mix. Is there a way I could do this?

That is only replacing the stock supply line with an un-needed after market supply line. All the other plumbing is necessary, but if you still have a fuel heater I suggest you toss it in the trash. Did you check the AFC boost line? If it is intact you might have ruptured the AFC diaphragm.


https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-part-for-AFC-diaphragm?p=2092389#post2092389

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/216710-OK-to-drive-w-AFC-cover-off?p=2092649#post2092649

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/235593-12v-AFC-Mods-walk-through?p=2276063#post2276063
 
I put in the new injectors and it idles great now and sounds alot happier. The old ones were very clogged and werw ready to go. I know I shouldnt keep changing parts. What should I test?
I don't know much about the AFC, what can I do to it?
Also I noticed fuel tank cap was very loose and I tightened it back up, truck still won't start without a kick of throttle.
 
Last edited:
I don't know much about the AFC, what can I do to it?
Also I noticed fuel tank cap was very loose and I tightened it back up, truck still won't start without a kick of throttle.

I supplied three links, do none of them tell you anything?

You can drive from New York to LA with the fuel cap in the glove box. It doesn't affect how the engine runs in the least.

What is the idle set at?
 
Idle speed should be checked at operating temp, a/c on, in drive. I don't have a '94 factory service manual but 750 sounds low.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top