Truck Modifications

[BigMike]

I own a '99 Ram with 5 spd manual trans. Up until recently, I was towing a 26' travel trailer GVRW 6800lbs. No problem! I am now pulling a 30' 5th wheel, GVRW 13000 lbs. Although it pulls fine, I have a bigtime reduction in pulling power. I hear and read a lot about mods that can made to improve power and performance. PreLubers, Banks System, Exhaust Brake etc. I would appreciate input from anyone regarding what sorts of things I should consider. Am I ok to just stick with what I have? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mundgyver]

If your pulling that large a trailer, get a exhaust brake. I got one and it works great on the down hill on the freeway. Save your brakes.

 

[mikel]

Take a look at this thread. It sums it up pretty well.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum4/HTML/000248.html

One thing that I have found is that you can use the walker 21468 with the stock exhaust and keep EGT's in check if you are not going off the chart with power upgrades.
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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD
ISSPRO pyrometer, Walker 21468, 20,000 miles 12-19-00

-- email address removed --
Howdy Agg's!

[This message has been edited by mikel (edited 02-02-2001). ]

 

[Wiredawg]

Big Mike:

I pull a 15K lb 5th wheel with mine. All the goodies below work real good in keeping me at 70 MPH. Just got my new MagHytec rearend cover today and am waiting to install my ISSPRO temp control monitor to automatically shut down engine after post-turbo temps drop below 300 degrees. EGTs never got over 1100 while climbing 6% grade.

I'm happy with performance and fuel economy. I'm not planning on any other mods except for aux fuel tank (next on wish list).

Hope this helps

Wiredawg

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2000 4X4 SLT QC 8' bed; 6 spd, 3. 54 ; BD exhaust brake and 4" exhaust syst; TST PM2; Airlift Super Duty rear air bags; RS 9000 shocks; pyro/boost gauges in 2 gauge a-pillar mount; back preasure gauge mounted under dash; KN air filter; Brown's Welding brush/grill guard, rear bumper & headache rack; nerf bars and aluminum roll top rear cover, Warn front receiver and Hadley air horns, 20K Reese hitch.

 

[Chad Sheets]

Get gages first of all so you will know what is normal etc. Next the boxes that advance timing are great because they increase power and fuel milage. Some even give you a little more fuel as well. All the fuel mods in the world wont show their true potential until injectors are changed to allow that extra fuel to flow.

Gages first, exhaust brake, timing box (such as The Edges "EZ") then if you still hunger for power, injectors, but keep in mind alot more fuel means more air in, and more air out will be needed as well.

Everyone has a ritual they like to follow that works for them, and this is the one I think will work for you. Hope this helps.

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Always ready to help!
2000 2500 Red Sport quad cab, 4x4, K&N, DDI's, straight piped, boost, pyro and fuel pressure gages, Hot Power Edge, EZ box, mean looking set of 33. 5" tires, Snap On diamond tool box, Marine Corps window sticker, Semper Fi!

1972 340 Cuda'. Original tripple Black, 340 car w/air. Good clean car, super stock springs, Weld Prostars, shaker hood, strong 340 with a 727/4000 stahl, 4. 56... . Bombs away!
NRA Life Member
My Diesel Page

 

[BigMike]

Thanks for input. Found a local shop, Wentland Diesel, who suggested the following: ISB Plug n Power, Injectors, 4 " exhaust, a couple of guages, and a BD Exhaust Brake. Seems pretty consistent with what most of you were saying. Probably set me back 3 or 4 grand. Seems worth it if I get the additional perfomance I'm looking for. Comments or further suggestions?

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1999, 2500, 4X4, QC, Laramie SLT, 5 spd manual. Bugshield w/eyebrows. Bedliner, Diamond Plated Rail Protectors, Better Built tool box.
Pull a 2000 30. 5' Terry Manor 5th Wheel. GVRW 13000lbs.

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by BigMike:
ISB Plug n Power, Injectors, 4 " exhaust, a couple of guages, and a BD Exhaust Brake.

With the load you pull, your clutch will not last too long with both a VA (PLUG-N-Power) and injectors. It might last a while but eventually it will start slipping under that power level and load. And all of the above shouldn't cost more the $3000 total.

 

[BIG BOB]

BigMike,

Everything you have talked about can be put in yourself or at a BOMBing session or 2.

You know that Vaughn MacKinzie lives in the Tri-Cities and I live in Post Falls. If you can't get over to Rob's in Enumclaw we can always get together and help you out.

EZ or Plug-N-Power $600. 00
Injectors $300-$600 depending on which injectors you choose
4" Exhaust $425-$550
BD Brake $700. 00

That puts you at a total between $2,025 and $2,450.

The price on the BD Brake is what BD was charging for the brake and installation at Dyno Days last October when we were there. They quoted me $999. 00 in Canadian and that include installation. <font color=blue><font size=-2>



[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 02-12-2001). ]

 

[tobaccogrower]

BIGMIKE:
I JUST INSTALLED A BANKS POWERPACK ON MY 1999 1 TON. I HAVNT TOWED ANYTHING YET,BUT I'LL TELL YOU, THE DIFFRANCE STOCK POWER AND BANKS POWER,WITH STOCK POWER I THINK ALL THOSE MONTHS I WAS PULLING AN ANCHOR!!! THE BANKS THROWS ME INTO MY SEAT!! I HAVE AN AUTO transmission THATS BEEN IN AND OUT OF SERVICE THREE TIMES BEFORE I BOMBED. NOW I'M WISHING I HAD A 6 SPEED!!!GOOD LUCK IN YOUR SEARCH.

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1999 RED LOADED 3500 QC DUALLY. CAP,331N. DUNLOPS,ALPINE AUDIO,PSYCHOTTY AIR WITH K&N,BANKS POWERPACK,AND JENETTY 4IN. EXHAUST... . STAND BACK!!!

 

[CUMINNTSTRKN]

Originally posted by BigMike:
Thanks for input. Found a local shop, Wentland Diesel, who suggested the following: ISB Plug n Power,

if you are planning on installing injectors and a timing box i would get either the edge ez or dd power module becuase they have a built in boost module and they cost the same as th bd. so if you go with the plug in power you will need to buy a separate boost module. so the computer will not defuel.

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2001 eth ez box and more on the way