truck pulls

[DF5152]

I know this has been discussed but i couldnt find what I was looking for so. when i got my truck there was no pull and the steering wheel was straight now its off to the left and i am starting to notice a pull/drift to the right. I know this is common with these truck but it wasnt there at first so i should be able to get rid of it. everything is stock and it has 11k miles. so my question is... isit an alignment problem? I remember reading somthing about improper torque on the alignment bolts on the lower control arms could one of them have move and if so which way do i adjust the lower ball joint to the front or the rear.





Dan

 

[cummins_crewcab]

Same exact problem on my 03 and I'm looking forward to an answer...

 

[DF5152]

anyone????

 

[thames1948]

My 04. 5 is doing the same thing. Steering wheel not straight anymore and front tires are feathering at 12000 miles. I thought my wife bumped a curb, but she says no.

 

[macdaddy]

DF

My 05 does the same thing but only when traveling local freeways and interstates due to the way they are constructed for proper water runoff. I will bet you my last paycheck if you were to get your truck out on a known flat section of roadway such as a landing strip or runway you wouldnt have it my 99 3500 4X4 did it, my 94 GMC 3/4 ton did it, and my old 92 Ford F-350 CC did it and now the 05.



I have checked the alignment for proper camber/caster aswell as toe in/out and they have always been within spec. Proper tire rotation is also critical when it comes to "feathering"/ "cupping" alot of people still don't believe in crossing the fronts to the rear when it comes to tire rotation, this should always be done at a maximum of 10K between rotations, If it will make you feel any better call you tire manf for proper tire rotation. I know Goodyear, and michilin recomend crossing the fronts to the rear, and bring the rears straight to the front.



05 3500 4X4 Laramie DRW 325/610 6spd 4:10's.

Sold 99 3500 4X4 SLT Laramie DRW ATS trans w/VB TC Comander AFE Banks 4" exh Edge EZ Auto meter and the 53 under the hood :{

 

[R.M.THOMPSON]

Mine pulls to the direction of the roads camber . Flat roads it's straight as an arrow. Is this what is going on with your truck ? About the uncentered wheel , that is another issue,3/8 17mm socket and a ratchet handle is all you need. Lay under the front end of the truck and you will see what I mean. Here is a tip,turn the coupling very little and mark the starting point and direction of movement. Very easy to do , but it took me about 6 tries as I figured out the tips after the fact . Will robally take two or three attemps to get it to your liking. Don't count on dealer getting it right the first time either , as they not going to test drive it for a day or so to see if it settles on center.

Mark T

 

[DF5152]

Mine pulls to the direction of the roads camber . Flat roads it's straight as an arrow. Is this what is going on with your truck ? About the uncentered wheel , that is another issue,3/8 17mm socket and a ratchet handle is all you need. Lay under the front end of the truck and you will see what I mean. Here is a tip,turn the coupling very little and mark the starting point and direction of movement. Very easy to do , but it took me about 6 tries as I figured out the tips after the fact . Will robally take two or three attemps to get it to your liking. Don't count on dealer getting it right the first time either , as they not going to test drive it for a day or so to see if it settles on center.

Mark T

are you talking about a steering box adjustment?

 

[cummins_crewcab]

Mine pulls no matter what I am on, I can be on a dead flat dirt lake bed and it drives the same as on any other road, steering wheel to the left and truck pulling. Got an appointment for an alignment but not till Feb...

 

[Gypsyman]

Hate to tell ya' guys but if you have the true right hand pull it's NOT the road crown. If I run mine on the inside lane of the freeway which around here has a serious LEFT hand crown the truck still pulls to the right just not as bad. I run in the fast lane on long trips when there's no traffic just to ease the fatigue in my hands. It IS a problem on trucks that really have it.



Richard

 

[cummins_crewcab]

Hate to tell ya' guys but if you have the true right hand pull it's NOT the road crown. If I run mine on the inside lane of the freeway which around here has a serious LEFT hand crown the truck still pulls to the right just not as bad. I run in the fast lane on long trips when there's no traffic just to ease the fatigue in my hands. It IS a problem on trucks that really have it.



Richard

So whats the fix? Just had an alignment problem from the factory that can be fixed with a new alignment or is something more serious wrong?

 

[Gypsyman]

As near as I can tell there is no fix so far. Everyone, including the alignment shops, seem to be waiting for "adjustable" or offset balljoints. I've tried caster adjustments to no avail and next I'll try toe adjustment but without offset balljoints I don't hold much hope. Sorry I can't be of more help at this time.



Richard

 

[DPKetchum]

Mine goes right from DAY 1. On far left lane it just takes longer. Tire wear is good. Rotated tires with no change. Its been a issue since the 3rd generations have come out. Checked alignment. Its in SPECS. Problem is specs don't allow enough caster?? or actually its on the EDGE of specs with no adjustment. They were using a offset ball joint to correct some. Its a OLD tsb for 02 or 01 but told this joint will work with a rubber cup added. There has been many threads discussed about this. Another one of those things that I was told D. C. had a TSB coming that has never APPEARED!

 

[SVWindwalker]

Steering problems/new truck decision

I have procrastinated buying a new 4x4 for the last year, hoping that DC would address the steering issues. Obviously they don't give a rat's fanny about their consumers. Has anybody come up with a reliable aftermarket cure - tried and true, that stops the wandering and ball joint destruction, etc.

Terry

 

[LSteiner]

Pull to right

Sorry folks, I can't speak from experience as I have a 4x2 but I think if

I had a 4x4 with the problem I would give this guy's experience a try and

have an alignment shop adjust per these specs:

Does it work? Probably makes a difference as to whether the truck is

stock or has been lifted, etc.



At any rate, some feedback is probably needed.



So here it is:







" Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide

acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range

is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close).

The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer)

tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they

were in this broad range of acceptance.

Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to

caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some

30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics"

training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees

to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates

caster shimmy.

Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First

I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can

see if you had a job well done,

The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual

wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they

are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting

individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between

two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable

in eight different ways.

Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the

lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings

into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME

direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback

condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).

FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a

pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger

value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber

pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even

though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!

If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not

pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the

axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable

values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).

A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative

cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right

hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the

negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling

heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing.

Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.

Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that

does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!



Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs

below are in degrees.





Left Wheel Right Wheel

-------------- ----------------



Caster 3. 2 3. 5

Cross Caster -. 3



Camber -. 10 -. 10

Cross Camber 0. 0



Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will

pull in as the front end lifts up).



Brent

ASE Certified

Gold Certified Chrysler tech"

 

[EErmert]

Well, my '03 4x4 305/555 had a strong pull to the right, and I waited at the dealership so as to watch, and learn... after a full tire balance, rotation the man then spent the next four (4) hours doing the front end alinement, he did a test drive 4 or 5 times. Came back the last, and told me he had to check up on D/C report, did that, came back with a new steering box, which was installed. Did the realinement, and got it close. Did a test drive, came back, told me that was as good as he could get it. Not perfect, and now after 2 months, starting a drift rigth, again! I'll be taking it back soon, it's still under warrenty... I'll let you all know what is what...



'03 White 4X4 6 spd. , stock, HO, SWB, SRW, SLT, many mopar acc's.

 

[WStoops]

LSteiner,

That was an excellent post on alignment of the Ram Trucks. As someone who taught alignment for years, your post shows a real understanding of the kind of expertise required to align, not only Rams but any vehicle with precision. I'm retired now, but you can work on my truck anytime. Everyone should make a copy of this post and take it with you when you have your truck aligned. Excellent!!!! Excellent!!!

 

[LSteiner]

Can't take credit

WStoops,



I was impressed by the guy's credentials that originally wrote the article.

Notice at the bottom where it is signed "Brent".



But I'm only passing it on as it has been around for quite a while but so

many don't seem to know about it. I think/thought it would be extremely

helpful if people would have success with these specs and come back and

say how it worked for them, then others would pay more attention



Thanks for confirming these specifications are indeed valid. Maybe that in

itself will help others.

Larry

 

[DF5152]

been chasing this issue for a while thought i had it licked. I adjusted the lower control arm until the drift/pull went away. by pushing the right wheel forward. it worked for a couple of thousand miles. the other day while driving i stepped on the brake the truck jerked to the right and its been drifting ever since. so I recheck my intial adjustment and the adjustment bolt it not even close to where i put it or where it was origanally. anyone have a fix for this. I tightened it last time with my impact not sure i was to tack weld it. wondering is anyone else came up with a fix.

 

[PLohr]

Thank you for the posting, Brent. Great information. I have a 2wd 2003 3500 SRW that has an alignment issue. Are the specifications and procedures accurate for a 2wd truck? Thank you for any help.

 

[oilrunner]

Same exact problem on my 03 and I'm looking forward to an answer...

Hey guys, I have an '04 2500 HO 4X4 and just both upper & lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and alignment shop still can't get right hand pull out.

There just isn't enough camber/caster adjustment with the upper OEM style ball joints.





Well fellas, Moog just came through for us. Oo. I just purchased a set of Federal Mogul (Moog) upper off-set, fully adjustable ball joints.

Adjustable from -1 3/4 to + 1 3/4 degrees.



Moog part # K7448 fits '03-'05 (These ball joints are greasable)

Limited lifetime warranty, basically good for as long as you, the original purchaser owns the vehicle. I purchased them locally from carquest for $119. 00 each. I paid a little more purchasing buying local, but have the piece of mind knowing that when or if they go bad, the new ones are on them!

They can be purchased cheaper from rockauto.com .



I am currently at a remote field camp in Alaska, so I won't be putting the new adjustable ball joints in until I return home. Hey, at least I have them, right? This should cure my alignment isuues.



Also, Moog has upper adjustable ball joints for 00' - 02'

Moog part # K7396 These are greasable too. The only problem is they only have 1 degree of adjustment for camber, and this may not be enough adjustment to correct your alignment issues? (Be sure to talk with your alignment shop before purchasing to make sure 1 degree of adjustment is going to work for you)?





I hope this helps... ... ... ... . :-laf