Truck shudders when stopping

[Archive]

While on vacation towing my fiver my brakes startes to pull to the left. When I returned I took my truck to the dealer. Turns out the axle seals on my rear end were leaking and had covered my brake shoes, drums etc with oil. The dealer replaced seals and shoes in the rear and checked my front brakes. I picked up my truck and it seemed ok. After I drove a couple miles I noticed it was bouncing in the back when I stopped. Called the dealer and they said bring it back. Took it back and they couldn't get it to do it, so I took the mechanic for a ride and tried to get it to do it and it wouldn't. Finally after about 10 stops it started it again. The mechanic thinks he knows what it is, back to the dealer. They turn the rear drums and sand the new brake linings so they wouldn't grab. Well got the truck back and it still bounces but not all the time when I stop. It seems to be in the 35mph and below. But sometimes I stop and it it smooth. Anyone else have this problem?

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1999 Dodge 2500 QC 5spd 3. 55lsd, Short Bed, Sport, Black / Tan Interior, Trailer tow package, Camper package, Infinity sound, Bed liner, 5th wheel hitch.

 

[Archive]

My truck does a bit of hopping, but not very often. One thing I have noticed is that it never happens when I've got my trailer hooked to it. Maybe it's the lack of weight when unloaded that causes the hop. I'm going to write it off as a characteristic of the truck.

John

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1999 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab 5 spd 4:10 Mag-Hytec diff. cover Speedliner spray in bed-liner, Smittybuilt step rails
Rammin' and runnin' the roads

 

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If the seal running surface was grooved you may be doing it again. The axle end seals seem to do this. The mag-tech? cover builder has the idea that the level is too -low-. It makes sense though. The seals and the bearings need oil for cooling/lubrication. The stock level is too low. Ideal is about a small fraction of an inch into the tube(not much). But if your seals are marginal you will know right away with the need for $$$brake job. Also "seal savers" are a sleeve that go over the bad surface and repair it. If you see another leak look for the "root cause". The seal repair brake job may be just fixing a symptom. Nothing to do with mag-tech just a happy cutomer.

 

[Archive]

If the seal running surface was grooved you may be doing it again. The axle end seals seem to do this. The mag-tech? cover builder has the idea that the level is too -low-. It makes sense though. The seals and the bearings need oil for cooling/lubrication. The stock level is too low. Ideal is about a small fraction of an inch into the tube(not much). But if your seals are marginal you will know right away with the need for $$$brake job. Also "seal savers" are a sleeve that go over the bad surface and repair it. If you see another leak look for the "root cause". The seal repair brake job may be just fixing a symptom. Nothing to do with mag-tech just a happy cutomer.

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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood, driftwood rickson's 19. 5's, Pro-Zap front bumper, Mag-tech diff cover etc--

 

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I have a 98 2500 with the camper package, and I have had a real hard time with my brakes. The truck just passed the 50K mark, and it has been in 4 times so far with the shuddering problem. Each time it goes in, the drums appear to be warped. So far, two visits have resulted in turned drums, and two have resulted in new drums, along with new shoes, etc. The dealer (at Dodge’s request) has also removed the heavy duty wheel cylinders that come with the camper package and replaced them with the standard 2500 wheel cylinders. This seems to have helped a little bit, but 2,500 miles after the last service, the problem reappeared, and now at 6,000 miles is steadily worsening. As a side note, I tried disconnecting the rear swaybar to see if that was creating a weird resonance problem in the chassis, but there was no change. I’m afraid Dodge might tell me now that it is my problem, despite the fact that the truck was brought in for the problem the first time with less than 10,000 miles on it. It’s been over two months since I complained to the dealer, and the rep still won’t get back to the service manager. They already bought my 97 back for brake problems (pulling under braking). My 97 had no problems with the rear brakes (it also didn’t have the camper package). Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Does anyone know of a rear disk conversion? It bothers me that I would have to pay to get the truck to do what it should have done right form the factory, but it would be cheaper than trading it in on a Ford, which is about my only other choice at this point.

Brad

98 12v Quad Cab Long Bed, 5sp. , 4x4, left stock until I get the brakes figured out

 

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I have a question for you done are you sure when they "fixed" your truck the first time did they put on new shoes or did they clean them up? The only thing I could think that would make a truck do what you are describing is either grease on a shoe or a defective shoe. I would also ask them if they did change your shoes what type they used and what they are made of. Unless they are a noname cheap pair of shoes I cant imagine them being defective right out of the box. Another thing you might want to check or atleast I would does it seem to happen after the drums get heated up a little bit. If that seems to be the case it is possible that your drum could have been damaged by the leaking seal and the way your brakes were grabbing before it is possible that the drum is now egg shaped and even if you "turn" the rotors it will not correct the problem. Maybe this will help but by all means do not put any of your own money into this problem make em fix it. I use to work at a dealer and they will stop at nothing to get out of warranty work!

 

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I still have the problem with mine. And it is NOT warped drums. The drums are fine, and the brake shoes are new. They don't know what it is. I think this is only a problem on the 2500. I wonder if it is the valve on the brake line. I know some people have disconnected it. Did that help?? I know one thing I'm not happy with my breaks. On another post Scott1 mentioned adjusting my rear brakes. Well Scott thanks foe the info. I adjusted them last night and today my brakes are better BUT not well yet. Stops better but bounces more in the back. I don't think the 3500 has this stupid valve. So I don't think they have a bouncing problem. Any ideas anybody??????

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"The Shadow" 1999 Dodge Ram SLT 2500 QC 5spd 3. 55lsd, Short Bed, Sport, Black, Camel/Tan Interior, Trailer tow package, Camper package, Infinity sound.

Elba Twp, Michigan

 

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On my truck, the drums have warped a number of times (they've been replaced twice so far, and the problem does go away for a while. They've also changed the shoes a number of times. My father and I are friends with the service manager at my dealer and I know he isn't pulling my leg or trying to get out of doing warranty work. The problem right now seems to be lack of response from the district rep. The dealer wants help from Dodge considering the recurring problem and the fact that the truck is out of warranty. Also, back to the problem, I'm sure that the problem with my truck isn't the "valve", because if I pull in the E brake release and step on the pedal (thereby activating only the rear brakes via mechanical means), the truck shudders. Oddly enough, though, the problem seems to be intermittent. My father drove the truck for about 20 miles tonight and he never noticed it. When he was in the truck last weekend (with me driving), though, it shook pretty hard. As far as the problem being a 2500-only, I think you might be right. I started a similar string on the old CDW sight, and most of the replies that were experienceing the problem not only had 2500s, they also all had the camper special package, which includes beefier brakes. Anyways, sorry to ramble, but this is getting old.....

Brad

98 12v Quad Cab Long Bed, 5sp. , 4x4, left stock until I get the brakes figured out

 

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Yep, after 12. 5 service I noticed that hop too. You guys have auto's or standard's. Mine's auto and although intermittent, seems less pronounced if i put it into neutral before I brake.

I think I can live with it, especially if it's endemic


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2500qc, no leather or abs
1500 bigfoot, no auto waterheater or microwave.

 

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Mine's a standard, and to me, the problem seems more pronounced when the truck is in neutral or the clutch is pushed in. Do the others have the camper package? Something is definitly warped on my truck, as when I'm coming to a stop with light brake pressure the truck "surges" a bit.

Brad

 

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Hey again. I just figured I'd tell everyone that tonight, I had my truck loaded with 1/2 cord fire wood (maybe 1500lbs. ?). When braking, the thing shook like h*** starting at about 30mph. This is getting old. As a side note, I had disconnected the rear sway bar to see if that had been setting up some weird frame resonance type thing (it doesn't help), and I'll tell you, that thing isn't for good looks!!! I couldn't believe the difference in the handling. So long.

Brad

 

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My 99 2500 hops in the rear when I stop. Not as bad all the time, it comes and goes, which leads me to believe it is a valve problem. It all started after I stopped hard while backing, after which my peddle became real sensitive and the hopping started. I thought maybe the rear brakes were to close, so I backed off the adjustment some. This fixed the problem for while, but it returned, so I have no idea now. It is worse with no load, and at slower speeds, and light braking. I intend to get it in to the dealer soon for that and other minor problems.

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'99 24v QC 4x4 2500 lwb, 3. 55, 5 speed

 

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Well, I figured it was time to resurrect this string to see if there’s any new news. I’ve had the chance to go back through my records (I did this so I could file a complaint with Dodge). The first time I reported the rear brake shudder was with 3300 miles on the truck. The truck now has 52,000 miles on it. It has been in eight times now to the dealer, who has done everything that Dodge tells them to do, all to no avail. Here’s a list of what’s been done to the truck in no particular order:

- three sets of new drums
- existing drums turned twice
- existing rotors turned once
- new front pads
- new rear shoes (twice, I think)
- replaced the HD rear wheel cylinders with std. duty cylinders (changed back after virtually no change)
- aligned (twice)
- checked axle runout (within specs)
- tried disconnecting rear swaybar (no change)
- tested the ABS computer (fine)

I think that’s about it. The current condition of the truck is…. Shakes like my dog after receiving a bath under braking. The drums were just replaced about 500 miles ago, the rotors are now warped, but since they’ve been turned, need to be replaced to the tune of $380-something dollars from Dodge. I haven’t replaced these yet because I want to see if I can get Dodge to foot the bill. I’ve called the customer service line 3 times now and am awaiting a direct call from the regional service rep. I can’t really bring it to another dealer for service without permission from the rep. , seeing as the truck is well out of warranty. So basically, I’m stuck. I want to do some things to the truck, but I want to wait to see what Dodge will do because I’m not willing to live with the truck the way it is, and I don’t want to invest money in the truck if I’m not going to keep it. I really don’t want a new truck, as I have (and like) the 12v motor (believe it or not, I have a 98 because Dodge already bough back my 97 for brake pulling). I also refuse to spend any of my money trying to make the truck behave as it should have when I got it.

Anyone have ANY suggestions????? Please help!!!!!!!!!

Brad
98 2500 QC Long Bed 4x4, 12v, 5spd. , camper/towing pkg. , HD trans. case, Amsoil dual filters, Leer cap, yaddah, yaddah, yaddah….

 

[Archive]

Just wondering, How many of you have the 4 wheel ABS compared to the rear only ABS. Might be a common link.

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97 SLT 2500, 4x4, 5sp, 3. 54, 255/85/16. TST #10 plate, Banks Twin Ram Intake, 14cm housing and exhaust, K&N air filter, BD 60# exhaust brake, Isspro Pyrometer and Boost gauges, Centerforce Clutch, US Gear Overdrive, Rancho RS 9000 shocks, RS5000 steering stabilizer, Stull Stainless Steel Running Boards, Atwood Goose Neck Hitch, Alpine 3D Shuttle and Polk Audio speakers. JRE injectors and cam-plate in route!

[This message has been edited by DBR (edited 12-10-1999). ]

 

[Archive]

Have they done enough to check your ABS, like clean or replace the sensors? Or disconnect it(pull fuse)? This will not cure the problem if a malfunctioning system has already warped/glazed your drums/shoes. But, if you start with new shoes and drums, I would not allow the ABS to operate(no fuse) and see if it keeps the problem from repeating.

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99 2500 QC, LWB, 5spd, 3. 54 limited slip, Intense Blue, 275HP Injectors
Tow Lite trailer
96 KTM 360 EXC
99 Durango 4x4 360cid

 

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I think DBR may be on to something. Rear wheel brake activation is very different between 2WABS and 4WABS systems (weight valve vs computer controlled). The type of transmission may be significant also. It would be very helpful if everyone who is experiencing problems with rear brakes would indicate in there post whether they have 2 or 4 wheel ABS and manual or auto transmission. I bet we see a common thread. (FWIW, I have experienced absolutely nothing but perfect brake operation from day one, got 4WABS and manual transmission).
Ron.

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'00 2500, 4x4, QC, Cummins ETC/6spd, 3. 54, Camper, Trailer, SLT, 4ABS, BD E-brake, Pullrite 20. 5K 5th hitch, Tekonsha Envoy-SX Tbrake, Flame Red/Silver, Agate

 

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I noticed the shuddering on my truck from day one, I thought it was because I was running empty most of the time. I have the camper and tow packages, 4 wheel ABS and an Auto trans. I have notice that most of the other members have similar set ups. I have scheduled an appointment to get mine looked at on Saturday. If any of you have any suggestions of things I should tell my dealer, let me know

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"ANGUS" 99 Black 2500 4x4, QC, SB, SLT, Auto, 3. 54, Leather, etc... .

 

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The other thing to consider is the camper package, which comes with heavier rear brakes, helper springs, and swaybar. Also, I forgot to say that my ABS computer was replaced with 500 miles on the truck because the one that came with the truck was unprogrammed (odd). The shudder doesn't feel anything like ABS operating. I've stomped on the brakes hard enough to operate the ABS, and it's a very different feeling than the shudder

For the record, I have:
Camper package
Manual transmission
Rear ABS only
3. 55/Anti-Slip Rear end

Brad

 

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I read one of those technical articles in a 4WD magazine years ago (one of those articles where people write in and get answers to their questions), about a shudder from the rear brakes. The magazine writer said that it's caused by the brake drums not being balanced. I thought he could have a valid point, because that's a lot of cast iron spinning around.
Just my . 02 worth.
Andy

 

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I've often thought about the balnce thing, but no matter what the component (drums, wheels, drive shaft, etc. ), it would seem to me that if something was not balanced, the truck would vibrate all the time, not just under braking. To me, this would also seem to apply to things being potentially out of round (tires, axle shafts). On my truck, the drums have been changed, tires changed, wheels rotated, and the condition always remains the same, which leads me to believe it's not one of those things. I guess right now the majority of my frustration is the fact that Dodge is basically ignoring me at this point. All I want is the truck not to shake my teeth out when I stop. I don't think that's unreasonable, do you????

Brad