Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck shuts off

[MarkRobinson]

I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 4x4. Recently it died and I had it towed home. When it died the tack pegged out and it just shut off. It did not sould like it was choking for fuel it just died. About twenty minutes later it started but then died again. A friend suggested it might be the crank sensor so I replaced that, later it still died and I had to have to towed a second time this time to the dealer. THe dealer said it had a internal failure in the injection pump so I took it hime and replaced the injection pump but it still died. I try bumping the starter and cank hear the lift pump work unless its been sitting for a long time. Any Ideas???



Thanks

 

[JLandry]

Mark,



Many questions:



When this problem began did you check and record any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? If so, what were they / are they?



Does it now actually start now and run for a period of time but die unexpectedly? Or does it not start at all now?



Have you checked the fuel pressure at the fuel injection pump inlet? What is it?



Did you replace the fuel injection pump with a newly rebuilt unit or a used (not rebuilt) unit?



Please fill in your signature with info about your truck and your profile with your location (someone close by may be able to help you).



John L.

 

[MarkRobinson]

It starts now but shuts off after a few minutes, when it shuts off it will not start for about an hour, it does die unexpectedly. I replaced it with a rebuilt injection pump. I do not have a gauge to check the pressure but I would like to get one what kind do I need? I also have no way to check the codes what kind of code reader do I need and can I get it at any auto parts store?

 

[JLandry]

Mark,

Almost any auto parts store will either let you borrow an ODBII compliant code scanner or will check your truck for trouble codes for you. But for under $100 you can buy your own code scanner at any auto parts store or even Wal-Mart and keep it handy in your toolbox. You don't need one that does a bunch of fancy stuff or displays the code meanings because this costs more and is unnecessary. Just buy one that shows the trouble codes and clears stored codes. Once you've read any trouble codes present in the truck's computer, be sure and write them down then clear them. You can then read ODBII code descriptions on the web at places like these:

AutoXray® Fault Code Lookup

Actron® Fault Code Lookup

OBD 2 Fault Codes Reference Guide

For the fuel pressure gauge, all you need is something like this for under $20:

US General Fuel Injection Pump Tester

There should be a Schraeder valve on the Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump fuel line inlet. The test gauge hose will attached to this. The fuel pressure should ideally never fall below about 7-10 psi under any operating condition, and in any case it should never ever fall below 5psi.

When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?

Regards,

John L.

 

[BDW]

My 07. 5 was doing something very simular and it turned out to be the keyless module. The truck was not recognizing the key and shutting it self down.

 

[JGamble]

My 2 Cents

Ok buddy, my two cents... . as I am a hurting Military member who Nobama wants to TAKE MONEY and my sled keeps breaking here and there.



First, I would take a look at the smoke issue of startup. Whenever you can startup your rig, take a look at the smoke that comes out. We're looking for color and ODOR. If it smells like raw diesel buring that isn't areated, could be a lift pump or injection pump. If blue, the blown rings or oil leaking into the cylinders during firing stage(s). Black is good. White is BAD If you see white, better get that checkbook ready.



Second, I would NOT worry about the keyless entry system, as far as I know, no second gen 24V people have had this problem. Newer trucks, yes, older no.



Third, it is IMPERATIVE that you get a FP gauge [post] the LP. REALLY important. Further, once this little gremlin is fixed, it can help you with any other question or help US with any question you have. Now off to the buying pit, I would go with ISSPRO, that is what I run. It is hit and miss, everybody is with a different person. Everybody will give their two cents. I would go to Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories - Geno's Garage for the best deal. On a side note, with that gauge, I would add a pyrometer and turbo gauge. The more informed driver is the driver who can diagnose the problem more effiecently and more ECONOMICALLY.



Fourth, after all of this stuff you have done, I would take a look at the return line of the pump. If you have a blockage their..... the truck would start after a break, as a break would reduce pressure (vacuum) and allow fuel to the engine. But once started, the blockage would pose a vacuum problem and cause the truck to be starved of fuel. Also, I would take a multimeter to the LP and VP and see what kind of voltage they are getting. Should be 12VAC. If it works out, and still dies, I would trace the lines and see if there is a blockage in the return.



Fifth, the gents talked about a OBDII sensor. Should you NOT want to buy one (but I would buy one as this is the first gen of ELECTRONICALLY controlled diesels engines for Cummins in light duty), you can do this simple test. Get in the cab, close the windows and doors, and stick the key in the ignition. Turn the key to on [not start], wait 3 seconds exactly, turn to off position, turn to on position [not start] for 3 exact seconds, turn to off position, turn to on position [not start] for 3 exact seconds and wait. Look at the odometer, there will a P code that is displayed. If there is more then one, after the first one, it will say pause, then give another (i believe) and when there are no more codes, it will say PDONE. Go to the forums for a description of codes; this is the easiest way to diagnose most codes for this gen of trucks... .



Keep us Posted,



God Speed,

J. Gamble