Truck stalling, fuel problem?

[NSperduto]

I'm having an issue with my truck stalling.

For reference.

2004 HO Engine, 94k on engine and lift pump, 3k on injection pump (changed

by dealer because it was leaking), 17k on fuel filter.



I was driving last night, truck made a slight stumble and when I let off

the gas for a curve, it stopped running. I tried cranking it and it would

just turn over and not start. Once I stopped, had it turning over and put

the accelerator to the floor, it started up. I went about 3 miles to the

fuel station, got fuel, I had 8 to 10 gallons left in the tank.

went about another 5 miles and slowed to turn a corner and it shut off

again. I got it started by pumping the pedal. A couple miles later, it

stumbled/hesitated going up a hill (did not stall) and then cleared and ran

fine. I drove about another mile or so home.



The fuel that was in the tank is about 3 weeks old or so (I don't drive the

truck every day) The day before this incident I towed a 8000 lb trailer for

a couple hundred miles with no issues.



I don't have a fuel pressure guage, but I could probably borrow one to do

some testing if needed. I would have to find out where to test at and what

the fuel pressure specs should be.



I'm thinking that the lift pump is going bad or possibly a clogged filter.

I have a replacement pump that I bought from Geno's last year (the one that

goes under the hood in the stock location), so I was just going to change

that and the filter and see how it goes.



Anybody have any other suggestions.



Thanks,

Nick

 

[cerberusiam]

Any codes?



Definitely sounds like a fuel issue. Question is whether its the fuel or a mechanical issue.



To monitor fuel pressure a tapped banjo bolt at the CP3 is your best bet.

 

[NSperduto]

the check engine light is not on so I did not think about any codes.

 

[JBallou]

Sounds like the dreaded LP failure, try checking for codes and fuel pressure, then replace LP and filter if needed. Report back your findings.

 

[TimothyLong]

I'd definitely replace the fuel filter and see if that helps. I know the owner's manual says to change them about every 18K, I change mine every 12K on recommendation from Fleetguard and even at that I start to notice a little loss in performance/fuel mileage. If your fuel pressure is still low, then it's probably the lift pump. If you don't already use one, you might also want to consider trying a fuel additive like Power Service Diesel Kleen or Stanadyne Performance Plus. If you did get a bad batch of diesel, they will help take care of that.

 

[NSperduto]

Where do I check the pressure at and what should the acceptable pressures be?

A fuel pressure guage was one of those things always on my list just never got around to buying and installing one. got trans temp egt and boost, but not that one.

 

[cerberusiam]

Where do I check the pressure at and what should the acceptable pressures be?

A fuel pressure guage was one of those things always on my list just never got around to buying and installing one. got trans temp egt and boost, but not that one.

Easy way to do it is get a billet fuel filter lid from Genos Garage and tap tour gauge in there.



A better way is tapped banjo bolt on the CP3 inlet.



Good fuel pressure would be 7-10 psi at no load and no less than 5 psi at WOT. If it goes under 4 psi at any time its replacement time.

 

[SPickett]

sounds almost exactly as the issues I had with my 05. Lift pump was bad and ruined all six injectors.

 

[NSperduto]

I haven't had a chance to work on it yet, trying to finish up a repair on one of my other cars. But I did check for code and did not get any.

I cycled the key 3 times ending in the on position and the odo lit up "done" then "-----" and then the odo reading. So I am assuming I did it correctly.

 

[SPickett]

my truck had a bad lift pump and all six injectors were bad and yet still not one code. Or a check engine light. The injectors were determined bad based off fuel flow and return flow.

 

[JDiepstra]

You are LONG overdue for a fuel filter change. Get the Baldwin PF7977 it is the best filter you can buy for the canister. It sounds like you still have the engine mounted fuel pump? These are known to be weak and if you can get the dealer to diagnose it as the problem, the replacement is the intank pump which is much better. I had this done under warranty for no charge! Better get it in there before 100K. Oh, I just reread your original post and sure you could replace the pump with your spare too!

 

[NSperduto]

How often should the filter be changed? I figured 15k was ok. I'm a bit over that. I have been running the fleetguard filter. I keep them in stock from genos.



My concern with the replacement intank pump is the pain it will be to change when that one goes, especially if I'm away in another state and the fact I have another stock pump in stock.



Is the pump under the cummins warranty or the dodge extended warranty. I am out of the dodge warranty because its past 5 years.



My plan (since I don't have to rush to fix it) was to order a pressure guage from genos and install it and see what's going on right now and then change the pump and filter.

 

[TimothyLong]

How often should the filter be changed? I figured 15k was ok. I'm a bit over that. I have been running the fleetguard filter. I keep them in stock from genos.

The recommendation made to me from Fleetguard was to change the fuel filter every other oil change and change the oil and oil filter every 6K miles no matter how you drive it. As I said in my last post, even at 12K I notice a slight decrease in engine performance / fuel economy.

My concern with the replacement intank pump is the pain it will be to change when that one goes, especially if I'm away in another state and the fact I have another stock pump in stock.

From what I have seen in other TDR postings, the in-tank lift pump is much more reliable than the one that you have now. You'd be better off going with a FASS or an Air Dog replacement. These pumps will be more expensive (though if you are past warranty and paying a dealer to install an in-tank replacement the cost would be about the same), but you get a much better pump and WAY better filtration. You could think of it as added insurance for your injector pump and injectors.

Is the pump under the cummins warranty or the dodge extended warranty. I am out of the dodge warranty because its past 5 years.

I believe that it is a Dodge warranty item.

 

[NSperduto]

Ok, after a bunch of reading and checking out back TDR article. I'm sold. I'm just going to bite the bullet and order a FASS pump and a guage that will be hooked to a banjo bolt at the CP 3 and maybe a warning light connected at the fuel filter lid.



I assume mechanical guage is better than electric, the genos isspro (that matches my other guages) comes with an isolator.

I'm figuring I'm dropping a bunch of money, but it should cover all the bases and for the future, I need this truck to last me another 15 years.



While I'm running stuff into the cab, I'll run some wires so I can put a switch to turn of the damn horn for when I need to back up and open the door.

 

[JDiepstra]

One thing that I remember reading which made me wish I still had the engine mounted pump is that the install of an Air Dog or FASS should be much easier since you already have the drawstraw and whatever you need in the tank, already in the tank. You don't have to add the aftermarket drawstraw and worry about the 1/4 tank issue. See you you can find more info about this cause it could save you some work.