2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Truck veers under braking

[CGALATE]

Under braking the truck seems to take off to the right... just trying to diagnose the problem...



Its a 1995 2500 4x4 ext cab long bed.



Thanks everyone.

 

[tp0d]

If you havent done a full brake rebuild, I would recommend one. New rotors, pads, rebuilt calipers and new front brake hoses. . I did this last summer after having bad pull to the right, and its gone. Previously tried new rotors and pads, no change. I believe the brake lines were the biggest improvement, when they wear, they swell with pressure and dont provide enough force on the calipers.



good luck



-j

 

[DESL PWR]

Had this happen a couple times on my truck. The fix was a rebuilt caliper. But, like tp0d said, doing a full rebuild is always a good idea.

 

[jelag]

What usually happens is that the boot between the caliper and piston gets damaged and dirt gets behind the piston and slows down or stops it return..... this will cause excessive heat... . and one of several things can happen... it can cook the resin from the friction material when it drags... this causes excessive wear..... one set is 1/2 the other set... or one pad is bad... but with the resin burnt away the co-efficent of friction has changed and it pulls... . OR one side is hot from the problem mentioned above and it can fade... . so one side functions good the other side doesn't... Some one has installed 1/2 set of pads... on one side the co-efficent of friction is not the same and it pulls.....



In some cases the damage to the piston requires piston replacement... worn through chrome plate, or groves require replacement at the time the caliper is rebuilt...



This can also be caused if the caliper doesn't float correctly on the backing plate. . wear of one pad (inside or outside) can sometimes be caused by this problem... and again the pull. . remove rust, grit, and dings... we put some light grease on the contact surfaces of the caliper to backing plate wear points. .



Last... . never push the pistons back into the caliper without inspection behind the boot first... and never push that brake fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder... open a bleeder and let the dirty brake fluid go to the ground... . Once a year... bleed the brakes and flush the dirty fluid out each line and wheel cylinder or caliper... start with the longest line first... and most towards the shortest...



That should cover it with whats been said above...

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Words of wisdom!

JeLag

Sounds like you know what you are talking about.



When you get your brakes working correctly. Keep those Caliper bolts/pins well lubed.

I found that my pins would get gummed up after only 1000 miles.

When they got gummed up they would cause the calipers to drag.



Keep an eye on them.



I have some good tips in my readers rig gallery here on the TDR.



SFB

 

[AFellows]

One more thing

Also check your rear axle seals. Mine was leaking onto the drums and causing the truck to veer when braking. Just a thought, if it is not any of the above things.

 

[Signal73]

My 95 suffered from the same symptom. A tube of caliper pin grease (yes they make specific grease for it) cured it 100%

 

[Matt42]

All the above posts are good ideas, and describe situations that can cause the pull. Before spending $$$ and time to do a general overhaul (which may be needed, though), I'd suggest this: Find a large, deserted parking lot. Starting at one end, back up at about 15 - 20 mph and make repeated hard stops. When you run out of parking lot, drive forward and do it again. Repeat several times.



The problem is that the Delco self-adjusting rear drum brakes will get out of synch, and one will grab before the other. If that solves the problem, you may be $$ ahead. I did that with mine today, for the same problem, and it worked. However, a 12 year old truck may need a brake system overhaul just because it's 12 years old. I repleced the calipers on mine 2 years ago because the RF was sticking. The heat here had done in the piston seals. The pads were still good.



Also, if you do a brake overhaul, consider replacing the rear brake cylinders with those for a 1 ton. I did that about seven years ago, and it was worth all the work (which wasn't much work, though).