Truck won't go into gear... sometimes

[JCleary]

I have done some searching, but have not found the answer I'm looking for.



I have 21k on my truck and absolutely love it. I only have one complaint.



For weeks at a time my truck will drive great. Then, for no apparent reason, I cannot get the truck into gear at a stop while it's running. I push in the clutch, and go to put the lever in 1st, 2nd, or reverse and the lever won't go in. An old trick in a Mustang I had was to go into 3rd or 5th before the gear you want, but even that doesn't work. I sometimes have to shut the truck off to get it in gear. That sucks at a green light



Sometimes if I pull the lever three or four times towards the gear I want and it will go in begrudgingly. It also feels as if the truck rolls forward a bit when I'm trying to get it in gear.



I'm assuming that the clutch doesn't disengage all the way. I've tried pumping the clutch pedal 'til my leg is sore, but it does not improve the situation.



Then, the problem will go away for a while.



Any suggestions? I know there's a mod from a 2nd or 1st gen slave cylinder available, but I don't have the time or tools necessary to cut and weld the rod. Does anyone make a kit that I don't have to modify?



Thanks.

 

[mberry]

Mine was doing the same thing. It kept doing it until I messed up while downshifting. Meant to go into 4th, went into 2nd. I could hear the synchros spinning really fast. Since then it's only done it once when it was really cold.



I am going to change the gear oil as soon as I can just to eliminate that as a factor. If you haven't changed your gear oil, I would do that also.

 

[Udaloy]

I would make sure you have enough oil in the case as well. It's been said plenty of times on here to over-fill a bit by pouring through the shifter tower. My transmission had issues going into reverse, and it was low on oil.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I had similar results on mine when I switched from the OEM lube to Redline - so after only 1500 miles use, I drained the Redline and refilled with new OEM stuff, and problem was gone. Yours might be lube related as well...

 

[JCleary]

I had a Lithia dealer drain and fill everything at 15k. The truck did seem to shift better, but the neutral-to-gear problem has never changed. I'll check the level this afternoon.



The trans works so well the rest of the time I just figured it was the clutch. Maybe filling from the top of the trans is a good excuse to get the short shift kit???



That would probably make my problem worse, eh?

 

[Udaloy]

I have some very valuable advice on that. Speaking from experience, make sure you use removable thread-locker on the new bolts if you go with the short-shift kit. You will like it when/if you get it.

 

[BHaner]

I had similar results on mine when I switched from the OEM lube to Redline - so after only 1500 miles use, I drained the Redline and refilled with new OEM stuff, and problem was gone. Yours might be lube related as well...

Same here. . Problem started when I put in the redline... However I love the way it shifts with it... So... I will keep it in there and live with the problem!

 

[opjohnny]

We have 3 stick cars here, no autos at all. When your rolling up to a stop while the truck is still just creeping along drop it into 2nd. Come to a stop but don't let the truck roll then take it out of gear for the long lights, if the truck has not rolled it should go back into the same gear. Doing this in 1st is more difficult. If you roll up to a stop in neutral the syncros may or may not be lined up to take off and rolling the truck a hair to find the gear is all you need to do. I would not force it, just let it creep. I always find the gear I need as I am stopping then I put the truck in neutral to go easy on the throw out bearing. Hope this helps.

 

[Fred Swanson]

Where in the pedal travel does the clutch engage?

Could be weak hydraulics, too.

 

[JCleary]

Where does the pedal engage? Well, it seems normal to me. It starts to grab an inch or two off the floor. Not like when a clutch is bad and it grabs all the way at the top.



I drove daytripper63's truck last Saturday, and the clutch felt similar. He has 30k or so on his. (It wouldn't hold up to the TST on the dyno, though. I gotta get one of those!)



I'll try rolling to a stop with the truck in gear the next time it happens. I sure don't want to have to shut the truck off at lights any more. Plus, keeping the clutch in for the whole light is not an option.

 

[mberry]

Mine is more towards the top of pedal travel. Maybe I should have it checked? What do you all think?

 

[DAWG-1]

The Fix

Hi LCleary,

I went through all the different oils and additives, with the exact same problem (NV5600).

Go buy the factory transmission oil and then add Lube Guard Gear Fluid Supplement.

I added only 8 oz to 5 1/2 qts (1 fastcooler). Lube Guard instructions tell you to add 3 oz per quart, I didn't read that until I got home.

My truck shifts great now. Downshifting with the exhaust brake on is still a little difficult to get into 3rd gear. Sam

 

[opjohnny]

Once the truck is at a complete stop you can take it out of gear at the light, if it rolls any amount while in neutral the gear may be hard to find with out rolling just a little more before you start again. I figure its big gaps in a big transmission! My T-5 in the mustang behaves the same way as the 5600 in respect to this issue. As long as your not doing a panic stop my way seems to work.

 

[Tim]

Where in the pedal travel does the clutch engage?

Could be weak hydraulics, too.

Bingo. If you can't get your truck in gear, the clutch isn't releasing completely.

 

[TFucili]

I'm not sure what Dodge uses for a pilot bushing or bearing. I had an F-350 with 6. 9/T-19 that exhibited similar symptoms. Turns out the needle bearing pilot had failed and the clutch was not able to fully release due to the input shaft/disc not staying square to the pressure plate/flywheel. On the same note if the splines of the input shaft are fouled by a leaky seal and accumulation of crud the results can be the same.

 

[JCleary]

I'm not sure what Dodge uses for a pilot bushing or bearing. I had an F-350 with 6. 9/T-19 that exhibited similar symptoms. Turns out the needle bearing pilot had failed and the clutch was not able to fully release due to the input shaft/disc not staying square to the pressure plate/flywheel. On the same note if the splines of the input shaft are fouled by a leaky seal and accumulation of crud the results can be the same.

I read somebody on this board had that very failure, but I think it was on a high mileage hot-shot truck. I'd be surprised it would happen to my 21k mile dirt bike chariot, but it definitely is a possibility.



Looks like I'll need to get some more hp to force me to upgrade to a SBC FE clutch!

 

[TFucili]

That Ferd had very low miles(<30k?)when the failure happened.