Archived truck won't shut down!

[bdarrington]

My 95 (pretty much bone-stock, 280k) would not shut down last evening when I got in. ( no, it's not still running) When I shut the key off, guages and lights off, but still running. Disconnected transfer pump wire, still ran after 2 minutes or so but throttle response so weak that I did the no no and killed it with the clutch. Does this seem like a simple problem to anyone?

 

[Joe G.]

It's most probably the contacts in your starter solenoid sticking. If you have smoke from the fuel solenoid then it's probably the fuel solenoid relay. If you need to replace the contacts in your starter just take the numbers off it to a parts store to get replacement contacts. It's a good idea to take the old ones when you do to make sure you get the right ones. The starter is easy to take off. Two wires and three screws with 10mm 12 point heads. It's a good idea to disconnect the battery first.

 

[bdarrington]

engine keeps running

Well, it's not that the starter keeps running, it's the engine. After last night I disconnected the batt just to reset any electronics---a shot in the dark, admittedly-- and it still won't shut down today. The truck starts and runs perfectly, the ignition switch just seems to shut down everything but the engine.

 

[b.j.oneill]

Mine did the same thing last month it was the shut off sylinoid it is just on the pump. it is easy to replace. It shuts off all elc. but keeps puting fuel to the pump.

 

[Joe G.]

Check the fuel solenoid relay first. It's more likely to be the problem and it's a lot cheaper.

 

[xbubblehead]

I had a 95 that did that when new. At first it ran only 5 to 10 seconds after turning the ignition off (I thought that might be normal for these diesels), but it later increased to about a 2 minute delay. I reached under and manually moved the solenoid (I think it's on the injector pump, but I'm sure some current 12V owners could explain it better). My problem eventually cleared up on its own.

 

[46mech]

bdarrington,



Joe and b. j. are right, it may very well be the fuel shutdown solenoid, but like Joe said, it may actually be your starter solenoid contacts. I'm not an expert, but I have learned that the starter solenoid and fuel shutdown solenoid are in the same circuitry.

The fuel shutdown solenoid is right next to the AFC housing on the left side of the fuel pump. It has a square rubber boot on the bottom side with a shaft that attaches to the pump lever. The shaft should move upward when you go to crank and stay there while the engine is running. I've read that sometimes that shaft can get dirty and stick so you might need to open the boot to clean and lube the it.

To shut down the truck, you should be able to just pull down on that shaft after you've turned the key to the off position. If that doesn't work, open the air cleaner put your hand over the opening in the hose to the turbo, this will starve the engine of the air it needs to run... ... I know 'cause when it happened to me, I had not learned where the fuel shutdown solenoid was yet. DON'T TRY TO USE any rag or anything, as obviously this could be sucked into the turbo!

Anyway, I'd be willing to bet Joe's thought on the starter solenoid contacts is the culprit. I'm electrically challenged so I chose to just replace the starter (NAPA had it way cheaper than anyone) and my problem has been solved for almost a year now. Now, maybe in my case what prompted me to just replace the starter first was the fact that I could here an audible sound that seemed to come from the starter area. I knew it wasn't that the starter was still trying to engage, but it was making some sort of noise. Hope this helps.

 

[mdwyer]

Have a look at TDR issue 27 page 14c-15b. It had a article on a small bolt causing engine shut down problem.



mike

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

On my 95 the rubber boot on solenoid was falling apart. I had intermitent low power situations. The solinoid wasn't making full travel. Sounds like you might need one. As mentioned before,check the relays first. Many $$ less than the noid. Dont panic. No biggee. It probably is something simple.

 

[rhoads]

shut down

simple test for the cause of a no shut down

( 1) about mid point of left side of eng you find the solenoid (start/run/shut dn. ) what ever !! Now how do you check the relay ?? Go buy a new one??--- Follow the wire trail from the solenoid up to the the weather pac conn. and UNPLUG ! (saves $$ on that relay and trip exp !!) .

Now If the beast still wants to keep on running

(2) reach under the sol. and snap down on the plunger that hooks to the link below(link runs to the dist pump) which will kill the eng. .

(3) " IF" ---- it is not getting fuel from some other source---ie-

leaking oil past turbo shaft seals.



Now if you have disconnected the three wire weather pac conn

and hard pulled down on the plunger conn. and it dies, remove the sol (two screw/sm. bolts & a cotter pin ) if the rubber boot is shot hang on to the plunger end(if you want to save the pieces)

because you may have disloged the rust dust that has collected--

IF the boot is not torn The only thing that holds the plunger in the assy is the black tie strap- clip it and if you (and you will) find

(a) rust dust-(B) a broken spring!!

In the case of dust blow out-- use 4oo grit emery paper clean and remove dust

(something light) reasemble (if you dont have air you could blow out with die-electric contact cleaner) and keep on trucking!!!!

Oo. If one were to go back to the 50's throw away the sol. and install a stop/run cable under dash and you have manuel control.

isnt life great now ! hit the key and go don't have to push/pull the cable!!!

 

[bdarrington]

Hey, problem solved with my truck that wouldn't shut down. You guys were on the trail and we finally treed that dude.

It was , actually a good experience. I went through the test procedure for the fuel shut off solenoid--all good. Then a test of the solenoid itself showed that it was indeed also good. Here's the interesting part--the solenoid actuates when the engine is cranked and acts upon the start lever which turns a shaft on the fuel injection pump. Well, somehow the little 1/16X3/8 or so Woodruff key went away on that shaft and the lever was spinning on that shaft. A 28 cent key, a little filing and setting it all in the correct range of motion did the trick for me. Thanks.

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

Don't ya hate when the simplest things bite you in the a$$$. Glad you found it