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Truck won't start, just clicks

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RAM 3500 passenger seat - no warning light

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kboettcher

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Sorry haven't been on the forum in years, but still a member. Need help. Couple of days ago went to start the truck and all it did was click. It did this for 10 tries then started. Worked fine the next couple of times, then did it again today, but this time would not start after about 30 tries. Looks the the starter tries because the engine torques to one side, but doesn't turn over. Dash and radio go blank for a second the dash lights come back on. Clock on radio resets to 12:00. I'm not sure whats going on. Heading down south in 2 weeks, and need to get this resolved. Not having good luck with the dealer here last couple times I've been in there so don't want to take it in. Did a load test on the batteries and they seemed fine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Provided you can turn the engine over by hand and all batt/starter connections are clean and tight it sounds like your due for a starter.
 
"Did a load test on the batteries and they seemed fine."

Your batteries are bad!
How were they load tested?
If the batteries are older than 3 years old, replace them.
 
The batteries must not be hooked together to load test. I still say batteries. If the starter is spinning the motor it is likely still good. There are more issues with premature failure on batteries than there are reports of bad starters.
 
The batteries must not be hooked together to load test. I still say batteries. If the starter is spinning the motor it is likely still good. There are more issues with premature failure on batteries than there are reports of bad starters.

But it's not spinning the motor. In his first post he stated after several attempts and nothing but a click, the truck finally started and ran. Bad batts don't just decide to work after several failed starts. I agree with your assessment that there are more battery failures than starter failures on these trucks but from his description it sounds to me like either a loose/bad connection or a cranky starter/solenoid. It's a process of elimination, check all connections and ensure clean and tight, proper load test of batteries and if all checks out it's probably time to pull the starter and bench test it.
There is also the off chance of a finicky park safety switch if it's an auto
 
I have experienced the clicking but no start on a Jeep Wrangler I had in the past - it was a grounding issue. Check your ground connections. In my case, where the ground wire (I forget to which component - battery or starter motor) connection to the frame was rusted pretty badly - the mechanic cleaned it up and re-attached and jeep started fine.
 
Sorry haven't been on the forum in years, but still a member. Need help. Couple of days ago went to start the truck and all it did was click. It did this for 10 tries then started. Worked fine the next couple of times, then did it again today, but this time would not start after about 30 tries. Looks the the starter tries because the engine torques to one side, but doesn't turn over. Dash and radio go blank for a second the dash lights come back on. Clock on radio resets to 12:00. I'm not sure whats going on. Heading down south in 2 weeks, and need to get this resolved. Not having good luck with the dealer here last couple times I've been in there so don't want to take it in. Did a load test on the batteries and they seemed fine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

The clicking sounds like starter solenoid contacts but the engine torquing to one side brings up another thought. Were you watching the engine while someone else tried to start? If you have standard transmission and it is in gear with the brake on the engine would torque to passenger side when starter engages. Just a thought. bg
 
As has been previously stated, disconnect the batteries from each other then load test. Chances are you've got one bad battery. Most people agree they should be replaced in pairs.
 
Ok thanks for the help guys. I realized after the first couple replies that I did disconnect the Batteries but did not isolate them from each other. When I re-checked them, one of them was toast. Went to Costco and got new batteries today and we are all good again. Thanks, now I just need to clear the P2BAC code I have
 
Ok thanks for the help guys. I realized after the first couple replies that I did disconnect the Batteries but did not isolate them from each other. When I re-checked them, one of them was toast. Went to Costco and got new batteries today and we are all good again. Thanks, now I just need to clear the P2BAC code I have

Batteries are a know weak point and i expect mine to fail soon. It is amazing how many issues you get with bad batteries. Good to hear you are fixed and thanks for the update.
 
The first post on this thread was mine that I deleted. One of mine was dead and even leaking acid at the terminals. I deleted the post when you said you load tested them..

I think I was actually running on one for a month or 2. Then the other one started to lose power
 
I actually wonder if my recalled 220 amp alternator shortened the service life of my batteries. They lasted less than 4 years.
 
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The clue here was the clock resetting. That indicates system voltage dropped very low. The cause had to be poor connections or bad battery. It eliminates all other guesses. I'm constantly telling my students to pay attention to the details and related symptoms. Same thing I told the technicians when I was still working.
 
The clue here was the clock resetting. That indicates system voltage dropped very low. The cause had to be poor connections or bad battery. It eliminates all other guesses. I'm constantly telling my students to pay attention to the details and related symptoms. Same thing I told the technicians when I was still working.

What threw me was he reported load testing
I would never load test them with them connected to to the truck. I was told by a tow truck recovery operator That's a good way to blow a module
 
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