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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Trying to solve "Lift Pump Failure Mystery"

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #10 plate in 97 180 hp pump

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) No tach and not chraging

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Does anybody know what the specs are for our stock Carter fuel pump?



flow (gph)-

pressure (psi)-

current draw (amps)-

weight (lbs)-



TIA!!
 
Okay, i've been all over this site searching for info about the "lift pump failure mystery". The only conclusion I have come up with is our pumps (carter) were not designed for our use. Most people seem to have success with moving the pump back to the fuel tank hence turning it into a "pusher pump". However I notice that our Carter pump looks a lot like the Holley "Blue" and Holley "black" pumps, which are not intended for continuous duty. So I would think that the best bet would be to find a replacement part for our carter pump.



Anybody have an opion on this pump from holley??

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/FMSFP/12-920.html



Would have to use a pressure regulator with it because it goes up to 100 psi.



I'm going to call Holley and talk with their reps about compatibilty with diesel and any problems with holding it at 15 psi continuously
 
I a rn mallery pump as pusher for along time. It oudn't hold 100 duty cycle. I went though many brushes and 1 armature. I finely gave up and put a stock lp in.
 
Okay, got ahold of Holley, they do not recommend using any of their fuel pumps for diesel. They do not guarantee how long they will last, the tech said that he had customers that claim they last a long time, but he couldn't confirm it. I'm guessing that I would get the same answer from most of the companies that sell electric fuel pumps.

I did a search on the summit racing website and found this Carter fuel pump:



It's the "CRT-P4601HP"



http://store.summitracing.com/defau...&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=fuel+pump+diesel



This sounds like a good pump to get if you want to do a relocation back to the fuel tank. It comes with a bracket and everthing!! Right now I'm looking at three options:



1. go to dealer and explain why I think my Lift Pump is failing (11psi idle - 3psi WOT)

2. Buy the Carter from summit and take a $90 chance.

3. Go with the expensive RASP system and don't look back.

P. S. #3 won't happen for a while. I have to finish the e-brake and mirror swap projects and then re-inflate my CC before I can shell out any more cash. :(



What do you guys think??
 
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I assume you've got warranty left and your future bomb plans in your profile are still dreams??



Find a TDR friendly and diesel knowledgable dealer and see if you can flunk the lift pump test. If so, have it replaced with the current pump which for the most part has proven to be pretty reliable.



With any luck, you'll be good for another year of so... save your pennies... and then do the RASP and "never look back". The reliability of the RASP, or lack thereof, should be established by then. I've got ~ 4K on mine and think it's gonna be a keeper.
 
Lift Pump Mystery

Ive recently replaced my Lift Pump at 40,000 miles. Ive read alot of post on this fourm regarding same. It seems that most 24 valve trucks will develop this problem multiple times. What has Dodge done to fix this problem

other then keep replacing Pumps at least up to 100,000 miles Thats nice of them but I plan on keeping my truck way beyond the 100,000 mark . Has any one out there not had a proplem with there Lift Pump. Keepin in mind that the truck will still run without the Lift Pump working. So if you dont have a fuel pressure gauge you dont really know.

Regards,

Mike
 
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Lift Pump problem!

I'm coming to the conclusion that there's is no way to figure out this lift pump thing. It's just hard to get a grasp on the percent of trucks with a problem, driving habits, fuel quality, additives used, bombs, street vs racing useage, etc, etc, etc. .

There's a problem somewhere in this system... . where to look... I dunno. The "cheap" fix is this: buy fuel from a dealer that goes through it fast (flying J, etc. ), keep the tank full, use an additive with a lubricant and carry a spare LP.

The other option is to put out the cash and buy a complete after market fuel system (FASS, Airdog, etc).

Niether of these solutions is going to tell us what was killing the LP and why simply switching $150. 00 filters (from say... Carter to a Holley) didn't do the trick. Nope. . when you overwhelm the thing with a $700. 00 Airdog you didn't figure it out... you just "Blew" right past it. I'll bet the origional cause is still there... an the Airdog (or whatever) is strong enough to hold up.

I just wonder how many LP problems would show up if we ran our trucks like the big rigs: put a load on the truck, run at a steady 1800rpm and don't touch anything 'till you run outta fuel... . then do it all over again.

I'll bet the LP and VP44 would go a long time between failures.



just my 2 cents..... Mike
 
I just had to replace my pusher pump (7 psi carter)/lift pump (factory pump) setup after 90,000 miles which I am happy with. I bought my truck with 24,000 miles on it and replaced the factory lift pump the first time at 28,000 miles (this was before the lift pump problem was well known) and then replaced it 3 more times between then and 60,000 miles. At that point I put on the 7 psi carter back at the tank (bought from Enterprise engine) and ran that setup since. At 150,000 miles (90,000 on the pumps) my pressure went down all of a sudden to 10 psi at cruise and down to 4 psi at WOT (normal was 20 psi at cruise and 18 psi at WOT). To replace both pumps costs $230 which I can live with at 90,000 miles of life. My $. 02
 
How about this?



Install tank in bed of truck, Pusher pump right below tank. Transfer fuel from stock tank to aux. tank. For the price people are paying for some of these fuel pump fixes, you could put a down payment on a pretty nice aux. tank. Oh boy, I get to put another guage in my truck (aux. tank fuel level) Oo.
 
Aeromotive

Hohn, I've visited that web-site and everything they sell looks top drawer. Why don't we just have these guy's take a look at the Dodge/Cummins fuel system and come up with a solution. I really like their voltage regulator... adds more juice to the pump as demands go up. Maybe this is the problem with our LP... same voltage from idle to WOT.

The problem is this; by the time you buy their pump, a 30 micron inlet filter, a 2 micron outlet filter, a pressure regulator and fittings... . it's going to cost about what an Airdog or FASS would run. Don't know that you would gain much.

Mike
 
Relocating stock carter pump to the frame so that it can push doesn't guarantee it will last. I have 1/2" line all of the way forward and I lost my with 20K on it and it was on the frame the whole time. Not totally lost, but pressure was starting to jump around a bit. Having said that tho, you can buy quite a few stock carters (143. 00each) for the price of a FASS or RASP. And furthermore, I can change mine out in less than ten minutes under all kinds of weather conditions. Of course I always carry a new spare under the front seat.
 
my story

just joined TDR - 1st posting

I've got 85k miles on an original L. P. (best I can tell) - I bought the truck used and I can't find evidence of the L. P. being replaced anyhow. After reading all the postings concerning L. P. 's I put a gage on mine the other night. 9psi idle. 5psi cruising on highway level around 1800rpm. As low as 0psi at WOT pulling a grade. Is it true my engine is under a 100k mile warranty? (meaning I should try the dealer routine before I replace it myself. ) I'm going to get a gage in the truck ASAP. Anyone used the BD-X monitor with the new fuel pressure option? Is the installation fairly straightforward for a do-it-yourselfer? :confused:
 
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