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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission TSB for lowering the rear of 4x4s

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Edge Comp...Fueling only?

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Hi ya'll



I just went to my local dodge dealer to ask about the TSB 02-001-01 for lowering our trucks rear ends. I was told it would cost 820. 00 just for parts and then add in labor. why isn't this covered under warranty if its a TSB? I have an 01. 5 and it only has 56,000 miles. he didn't ask any of that he just immediatley said he could perform the job but that I would have to pay for everything. Seems like if dodge realizes that there is a problem and issued a TSB about it then they should cover it. Just wanted to rant a little and ask it anyone had any successes they could share on how they got it done under warranty. Or if there are any sources out there for a 3" wide block that would get the job done more reasonably.
 
ahhh i see. well learnt something new again today. Anyone have an aftermarket source for lower blocks? cause there's no way I'm spending a grand on that. I'd trade her for a 2wd.
 
Call a different dealer. No way that kit costs $820 - all it has in it is a block and shorter U bolts.
 
the reason I was trying to go through dodge is that the replacement for the factory 4. 75" block is only 50-60 dollars each!! Was hoping to get the shorter ones for something comparable and be able to keep my bump stop and to have a part that was made for my truck by the manufacturer. just got off the phone with a really helpful parts guy at another dealership and he told me that the MSRP was the same $820. 00. he said their cost was only 500. 00 and that he could work with me and probably get me out the door for around 600. 00. I'm gonna have to go to the custom spring shop. Just thought I'd let those of you know what kinda mark up dodge has on these items. Also I asked if he could just get me the blocks and i'd have my own U-bolts made, turns out that dodge doesn't list any of the part numbers for the TSB kit individually. You have to get all or nothing. Anyone have an "in" with a higher up parts guy with dodge that could find out about just ordering the blocks? Because if you get the TSB I'm sure the U-bolts won't work to keep our overloads. as the TSB requires removal of the helper springs. So you'd need different U-bolts anyway in order to keep the load carrying cap. right?
 
twiisted71,



If you were to have the TSB performed by the dealer and if you have overload springs on your truck you would loose them. The TSB for some reason removes the overloads ever though they sit on top of the main pack and the spacer block is below the remove them. Dumb in my opinion.



Kevin
 
if you really want factory blocks why dont you take your blocks to a local machine shop and have them mill off the bottom couple of inches or however much you want to lower it and im sure that would cost alot less then dodge wants for there blocks at $500 for a set of blocks they better be made of gold or something



ken
 
KHelfrich said:
if you really want factory blocks why dont you take your blocks to a local machine shop and have them mill off the bottom couple of inches or however much you want to lower it and im sure that would cost alot less then dodge wants for there blocks at $500 for a set of blocks they better be made of gold or something



ken



exactly what I was thinking... heck, I am sure you could find someone with a set of stock blocks laying around they pulled when they lifted the truck ( my lift replaced my stock blocks with a angled block, sorry, mine are already gone) Bring those in and have the cut down and then you just swap them with a new set of u-bolts and your done.
 
called a custom spring shop I had done business with years ago on my early bronco. They said they could fab me a set of blocks from 6" channel thats 1/4" thick with U-bolts and labor out the door for around 100. 00!!! If they can cut my blocks he said around 60. 00!!!! I have an appt. Tues morning :) if any one has any stock blocks laying around taking up space that they'd like to donate to my cause, drop me a line. I'd sure like to have a set of blocks already out for them to look at before making a a new set and also incase there was a slip of the saw on mine.
 
My Dad (Jack in Alaska) had the blocks on his 98. 5 cut in half and reinstalled. Truck rode level with no load and slightly tipped back with a load, but the tralier sat level.
 
I'm trying to go down not up though. My trudk is already a pain in the a** to load anything in the bed of, and forget reaching anything in the bottom of the tool box without getting into the bed or standing on the tire and doing the wobbling balance act. For those who are looking to go up however, I saw an ebay ad for a company in TN that has 2" spring spacers made of 1/4" steel for around 70. 00!! that sounds plenty heavy duty to level our oil burners "up".
 
Just wondering how the appt went? Any luck in getting the rear end lowered? Im looking at possibly lowering mine also. Then adding airbags for towing heavy.
 
Shortshift

the appt. went super smooth. the guy cut off the snubber bumper, cut 2" off the blocks, welded the snubber bumper back on bent up some new U-bolts, gave me the old ones and I was out the door for about 86. 00. My truck now sits almost level. Talk about a huge difference in being able to see over in the bed now. and the wheel wells don't seem to be a huge mismatch for the truck anymore. I too am thinking of some airbags if I have to tow heavy though.
 
You might want to adjust your headlights to match your new attitude. It's part of the TSB you know. Did you happen to check driveline angles before and after? Any new vibrations?
 
haven't noticed any new vibes yet. its been rainin off and on here since getting the drop done but i'm going to check the angle of headlights. thanks
 
twiisted71 said:
haven't noticed any new vibes yet. its been rainin off and on here since getting the drop done but i'm going to check the angle of headlights. thanks



Wow Twisted - Good for you. Glad to hear it worked out for such a reasonable price. wish I was closer, Id run over to the same shop.



The only other thing I would be interested in is the adjustment of the brake proportion valve (if I remember that right). I think thats what our trucks have, or something to with the anti-lock brakes anyways. Just thinking there was an adjustment that may have been needed to do after lowering the rear to keep braking correct.



Guess Ill have to start looking at spring shops here in So. Cal. - Am jealous.
 
shortshift

I have put about 200 miles on the truck since lowering. No weird vibes and het brakes seem fine to me. headlight angle seems to better than before. That wouldn't be hard to do though as my lights seemed to be aimed a little low. but the brite box (Geno's) is a great addition for our trucks in my opinion. If you want i'll give you the number for the shop that did mine. He said he could make some blocks and U-bolts and do the labor for around 100. 00. without the labor you should be able to come out much cheaper, if you wanted to have them make the stuff up for you and ship it. It could be a pretty easy weekend job to do it yourself.
 
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