TSB Issued for 2000 RPM Vibration

[sag2]

The TSB for the 2000-2200 RPM vibration in the steering column and/or accelerator pedal has been issued. It is TSB 19-008-03. The fix is a new PS hose from the pump to the Hydroboost. The PN is 52113926AF and parts says that it is available in most depots.

This should not be confused with a front drive line vibration. The TSB addresses the vibration that can be felt while the truck is stopped. Saw a post earlier today from someone that said their new 04 had a damper on the PS hose. I suppose the new hose is being installed now on 04's. I will find out as the estimated ship date for my new 04 is December 3rd.

 

[FlyFisha']

Oh man, this is great news. Thanks for the update!



Jeff

 

[MMeier]

Great job sag2, keep us posted on anything else that comes down the pike, especially for the "drift" to the right that DC says is "normal"!! Maybe one day we will get these new things to rival the 2nd gen's!! Mark

 

[sag2]

MMeier

I was talking to another technician the other day. He said he put a set of the 2nd gen factory offset ball joints in an American Axle. He said the Mopar joint was . 003 larger than the AA joint, but it pressed right in and the caster was adjustable. Have not tried it myself, but this guy is very reliable.

 

[rbattelle]

sag,



The vibration is felt only when the truck is stopped? Why would you be at 2000 RPM with the vehicle stopped? I think I'm confused...

 

[Steve M]

I think he's refering to the vibration that can "also" be felt when stopped. The normal 2100rpm buzz from the engine that resonates through the steering wheel either rolling down the road at 2100rpm or sitting still is neutral and running the engine at 2100rpm. It'll be interesting to see how the driveline vibration feels without the engine vibration in the steering wheel.

FWIW, I've owned a '95, '98, '01. 5 and now my '03. I noticed with my '98 the vibration being transmitted through the hydro-boost hoses. It drove me nuts. (The '95 didn't have hydro-boost. It had a vacuum pump. ) I ty-wrapped them together, then apart, put some weight between them and ty-wrapped them. I don't know if I had partial success or if I just got used to it. With a 5spd/4. 10 I was always up there in rpm. It was very annoying. Rev your engine to 2100rpm and lean your ear to the steering wheel. If you really want to hear noise and vibration, find a '98 12v and do the same thing.

I'm glad there's a cure for this normal engine vibration resonating through the cab. Now for the driveline vibration...

 

[sag2]

rbattelle, Steve M is correct. Just trying to differentiate between drive line and PS hose caused. Both will do it driving down the road, but PS hose will also do it stopped at same RPM.



Proper diagnosis tends to be logical and process of elimination. That is why many problems do not get repaired correctly the first (second, third, etc) time. Most technicians do not approach a problem logically, and that usually gets you in trouble. Many times I work back wards with what I can prove is not the problem, until you eliminate enough components to lead you to what is causing the problem. Not always easy or foolproof, but having a process seems to work best with the difficult problems.

 

[rbattelle]

Many thanks for this info, sag. If anyone finds a link to this TSB let me know... it's not at dodgeram.org yet.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Originally posted by sag2



Proper diagnosis tends to be logical and process of elimination. That is why many problems do not get repaired correctly the first (second, third, etc) time. Most technicians do not approach a problem logically, and that usually gets you in trouble. Many times I work back wards with what I can prove is not the problem, until you eliminate enough components to lead you to what is causing the problem. Not always easy or foolproof, but having a process seems to work best with the difficult problems.

I couldn't have said it better myself... that's what separates the real techs from the parts exchangers! We need more people in the service departments with this attitude!



Bill

 

[RankRam]

I went out and ran the idle up to 2000 and 2200 to check for this vibration and it is there, but it is very slight.



Is this vibration just a minor irritant or more pronounced? I'm fortunate as far as the problems some are encountering.



I think the truck is vibe free for a Cummins.



Do you think this TSB applies to my truck?

 

[rbattelle]

I don't have much (if any) of the described vibration. Or, if I do I've resolved that it's just normal. But I will probably let the dealer put on the new hose if it's a better design than the one I have. On the other hand, don't fix what ain't broken. Oh heck, I don't know.

 

[RankRam]

Originally posted by rbattelle

I don't have much (if any) of the described vibration. Or, if I do I've resolved that it's just normal. But I will probably let the dealer put on the new hose if it's a better design than the one I have. On the other hand, don't fix what ain't broken. Oh heck, I don't know.

I agree! My truck has not been back to the dealer for anything since it was purchased six months ago.



10,567 miles of trouble free service. Oo.



I'm going to keep an eye on this thread and see where it goes.



By the way thanks for the heads up sag2.

 

[MMeier]

sag2, since my truck is within published specs for an '03 already , any idea as to set specs to if I were to have the 2nd gen joints installed?

 

[sag2]

Generally you want at least 3/4 degree of caster split to keep it tracking straight. But this is dependent on many other factors such as tire condition and pressure, as well as road conditions. The best way to determine how much split is from experience and knowing the starting point. No matter what, you should still want it to drift slightly right on a FLAT road surface. I have seen as much as 1 1/2 degree split to get one driving straight.

My truck does drift to the right but not what I would consider abnormal. I have noticed that if you hold your right hand on the wheel at 2 o'clock it goes right, if you use just your left hand at 10 o'clock it goes nice and straight. A drift is a subjective thing, and some people think it should go straight forever with hands off the wheel. I don't know about anyone else, but I try and keep a hand or knee on the wheel at all times.

 

[rbattelle]

I think a vehicle should pull slightly right anyways. That way if you have a heart attack at the wheel and let go you're more likely to remain out of the left-side of the road. My grandfather, a big truck mechanic, always used to adjust his brakes (back when drum was the only type) to pull right for that very purpose.

 

[RobbieH]

Is this a problem for both the 4x2 and 4x4, or the 4x4 only? I'd swear my 4x2 has the same issue. What I feel to me is as if the engine were not on motor mounts that were insulated, it feels like the engine is shaking the steering wheel and accellerator pedal. Kind of annoying.



This might not be the right place for this, but I also noticed that my 4x2 bump steers worse than any vehicle I have ever owned, and that includes a very modified rock crawler '97 Jeep, built to run on the trails with no concern for streetability.



Not sure if the two arre related.

 

[rbattelle]

This particular fix is driveline-independent.

 

[sangell]

I just got done talking to my dealer and he told me that they have no records of this TSB.



Scott

 

[CIverson]

Originally posted by sangell

I just got done talking to my dealer and he told me that they have no records of this TSB.



Scott

Yup same thing for me today, no records (they looked it up by VIN #)

 

[MMeier]

Anymore info ??