Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) TST 230 or 250 Plate

[Gray 5.9]

I plan on getting a fuel plate for more umph!, though Im I'm still stock. I do plan on getting a trans upgrade later but not right away. Is it possible that I could go ahead and get the 250 plate and slide the plate back . 030 for now untill I get the trans upgraded? The trans right now still shifts good , I think If I don't hammer down to hard I'll be ok with the 250 plate slide back. Oh and another thing, I Don't tow very often, mostly empty except hauling my four wheeler around on the weekends. THANKS

 

[jpearson]

If you drive smart you'll be OK. I've got a #5 plate with stock trans. , but a good transmission sure would be nice. Stock transmission's just don't get the power to the ground. My truck takes off when the trans. is in lock-up in 3rd & 4TH gears. theres to much in slippage in 1st & 2nd. I don't think our transmissions are made to lock-up in 1st & 2nd.

 

[Joe G.]

The big trouble with a stock 47RH trans is that the pressure is too low at the RPM we run. If you get on it much with the #5 plate it will eventually tear out the clutch plates. If you raise the pressure too much you will need to replace the lip seal in the front clutch pack because the stock one will not hold the pressure.



If you want lockup in 2nd you will need an aftermarket valve body. Mine is from DTT and works very well. You can rig a lockup switch for the torque convertor clutch to force it to stay locked, but that is a use very carefully modification.



My 47RH is beefed up and has a DTT vb and tc. I serviced it yesterday and it really didn't need it. About 40K miles since the last service. I tend to lead foot it quite a bit so I don't think a stock trans would put up with it.

 

[Leon R]

Bombing your 94 will make it a completely different truck that you will enjoy driving. Also a lot cheaper than buying a new one. But once you start you should do the complete package. First the quages, then the desired plate (230 is probably good for what you say you want to do) Trans upgrade by whoever you decide and to go with and with that you will need the 3k gov spring kit to really make use of other upgrades.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

Mine's a 97. I put it on a dyno last year with a #8 slid ahead about 1/16". Otherwise stock except for a K&N filter, it hit 278 HP/634 torque at the rear wheels, at 2300 RPM. The RPM topped at 2700, with 112 HP and 217 torque. Later, with the same plate in the same spot, I put in the 215 injectors, and the 3K Govenor spring kit, and tried it again. This time, It made 300 RWHP/700 torque at 2400 RPM. It finally topped at 3400 RPM, and was still putting out 197HP/304 torque. A #8 plate will give you much more than "230/605" slid forward just slightly. Add the 215's and the GSK, and see what a difference it makes. The last set of #'s were made with 34 lbs boost, & 1200+ EGT, and 160K miles. With this many miles, and that much power, the old factory TC was crying "UNCLE!". Had to make a trip up to Iowa for a Goerends Triple Disc, low stall TC. I cannot make it slip, even at low RPM.

 

[Joe G.]

The '94 has a "small" 160 pump. From what I recall from the torque plate chart, the smaller the number the more power. I think the #5 is not even recommended for the '97 because of too much power. The #8 won't do much for the 160 pump.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits_trial.htm

 

[Boldt's Wagon]

At the 2002 May Madness on the DD dyno I did 294 hp at 2560 rpm with a 230/605 plate, 215 injectors, 3000 rpm GSK, MHAF, and cat be gone.

 

[Joe G.]

Dennis,



That's the chart I was talking about. The HP/TQ increases to the right. So from the chart (second row) we see that the #8 produces less power than the #6 or #5.



The 230 HP plate is a #6 for the small pump, #8 for the middle pump, and #12 for the big 215 pump.

 

[jimk]

I installed a #6 TST and slid it all the way along with the AFC cover. Check the lever adjustment like Piers recommends. I set the timing up to 5. mm lift on the 1968 cpl.

The fuel plate and the timing result in torque and hp that is enough for a stock transmission and probably more than a #5 that is in the center. If you install the 191 and a set of 370 later on this would be way to much for a stock transmission. A set of 181 and 215 injectors would still tax the stock transmission

Installing the governor kit will help the stock converter work better in my own opinion.

I made a bracket to install on the cooler line to hold the lever on the throttle cable back a little. This makes the shift points to 1800 at light throttle and raises the pressure to, I think, 80 at idle, maybe a little less. This firms up the shifts and works fine for me. Since I probably never do the auto up grades the #6 and the timing are plenty. I use the overdrive lock out button every time to raise the 3 to 4 shift to 55 miles an hour and let off to ease onto the shifts. Raising the rpms makes the stock converter a lot more efficient. This will never win any races or set quarter miles low ET, but is works fine for me. I have never been towed home from a broken truck either, at least yet.

lol Jim

Originally posted by Emerald5. 9

I plan on getting a fuel plate for more umph!, though Im I'm still stock. I do plan on getting a trans upgrade later but not right away. Is it possible that I could go ahead and get the 250 plate and slide the plate back . 030 for now untill I get the trans upgraded? The trans right now still shifts good , I think If I don't hammer down to hard I'll be ok with the 250 plate slide back. Oh and another thing, I Don't tow very often, mostly empty except hauling my four wheeler around on the weekends. THANKS

 

[1dslram]

If you do the #6 plate and timing and adjust the pump now you could add POD's and delivery valves later after the trans upgrade. Almost forgot the Governor springs you will want at least the 3,000 RPM set, and this could be done before the trans.



HAPPY BOMBING!!!

Bruce

 

[Gray 5.9]

Thanks guys, I do plan on getting 215 injectors, and bumping up the timing. So if I went with the 250 #5 plate, I should be ok unless I romp hard on it, but if I back the plate off . 030 that should be close to a 230 #6 plate, you think? Does the 230 plate have the same power curve as the 250? Would there be any diffrence between the two as far as fuel milage? So far Im currently getting 17 in the city and around 21+ on the Hwy with 193,000 miles logged on, I hate to alter it to much.

 

[Joe G.]

The correct name for the plate is "full load throttle stop". It only comes into play at WOT or close to it. So if you don't do that no problem. Of course, if you are like me you will walk on it once in a while. I think your idea about backing the plate off until you can beef up your trans is a good idea. I'm not sure about the relation between the #5 and #6 as far as the fueling curve is concerned. Maybe someone could post pictures of them so we could get an idea.