Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) TST #5 no power

[gjacobs]

I just put a TST #5 on my '95 auto today. I was going to take it easy on the truck untill I figured out what direction I am going to go with transmission mods. After installation I went out for a test drive, no worries about taking it easy because the power increase was very little. I have felt more power by changing out a really bad fuel filter!!! I put the new plate right in the middle, so I guess I can try to push it all the way forward and try it again. Is there something else to try, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

P. S. the star wheel is all the way forward.

 

[bighammer]

Did you take it out and really stand on it. I noticed no difference when I was heading out of the neighborhood the first time after the install. When I hit the open road I was all





What kind of boost numbers are you getting? Did you put in the boost elbow to fool the wastegate? Or maybe the arm that rides on the plate (forgot the name at the moment) needs adjustment. I've heard it can get caught on the point of the plate if not properly adjusted.



That's all I can think of at the moment... .

 

[Todd G]

Make sure you connected the boost line on the back of the AFC housing.

 

[Strick-9]

The '94 - '95 trucks have the lowest governor settings of all P-pumped trucks. Once you start adding fuel via camplate, you'll notice it more and more. Fuel cutback begins around 2200 and gets worse.



When I first started experimenting with my '94 I noticed the same thing. Hardly any increase in power with camplate modifications.



Your stock torque converter is letting the engine spin up to 2200 RPM without putting much power down. By then your governor is cutting fuel back so the camplate is no longer in the picture.



For the early trucks I always recommend governor modifications before a camplate install for this very reason. More acceleration per dollar spent.



Once your transmission gets into lockup, you should be able to see the difference the camplate makes, but from a standing start to about 60 MPH (pre-lockup) there's not much difference with only a camplate.



Some quick things to check which make the problem worse:



1. Make sure you are getting full throttle. Have someone press the accelerator and check that the throttle lever on the pump is pressing against the high idle stop.



2. Make sure the kickdown cable on the transmission isn't adjusted too tight. This too will limit throttle travel.



Hope that helps,

Chris

 

[ronco]

Strick-9, when you say governor modifications, do you mean a GSK or something else? If something else, teach this green horn something.





ronco

 

[gjacobs]

Well i took it back apart and slid the plate and housing all the way forward. Went for a drive all the way up to 90mph. I couldn't tell a difference between forward and stock position. You can see a little bit of a difference top end with the #5, just not the difference that everybody else is talking about. The boost lines are all hoked up and seem to be in good shape. The boost gague is at about 6 at 70 mph @ 1700 rpm and about 36 at 90 mph @about 2700 rpm. Seems all normal. The truck allready had a boost elbow so I left the old one on it. I will check the throttle linkage tonight. Would a set of governor springs help? What kind of governor modifications are you talking about?

Again thanks for the input!

 

[Strick-9]

Sorry guys, I should have been more specific. There's more than one way to get more RPM out of your engine. That's why I use the term "governor modification" rather than GSK.



The cheap ways have side effects on your transmission because it alters the throttle position and increases the throttle range of motion. This lowers transmission pressure at light and medium throttle settings. <bad thing>



The governor spring kit is the safest way to modify the governor in the automatic trucks, because it doesn't affect throttle position, and thus kickdown cable adjustment.



gjacobs,

When the converter is locked up from 1800-2200 rpm you should see a noticable difference with the plate installed. Is your converter locking up? I've seen wacky TPS sensors that caused the converter to rarely lockup, yet the customer never noticed until I pointed it out. Can you get the truck in 4th gear at about 1800 rpm and press the accelerator about 1/2 way down without the engine RPM flaring up?



-Chris

 

[gjacobs]

I put a new TPS on about a year ago but that could mean nothing. It locks up fine even to the extreme of the in and out that pulling the wires out of the harness cured. I will get it in 4th at 1800rpm and get on it 1/2 way and get back to you tonight. I have never felt any slipping but will watch the rpm gague real carefully.

 

[Reb.B]

its the Govenor arm position. Pull the afc, pull up on the fuel shut off solenoid arm and have somebody push the throttle. The gov. arm should be right on the big nose, . . if it is below, than that is your problem. To fix the problem, go to Piers' site and read the instructions for adjusting the GOV arm. Note: when adjusting the arm, unlock the nut and screw the screwdriver shaft out or counterclockwise to adjust the arm up.

 

[gjacobs]

Thanks Reb B I will look into it. The big boss man says that I have to go out of town this weekend to another job so I will get back to you guys on monday when I get a chance to look in to the gov arm and the throttle linkage.

Thanks again,

George

 

[gjacobs]

Well I have the privledge of staying up here at a different job for a couple of weeks so that is going to put a cramp on my no power fix for a little while. I did rummage up a couple of sockets and look at the gov. arm and it is at the top of the horn on my #5 plate. I am supposing that it is supposed to be at the very bottom of it?

Thanks for the info

 

[Reb.B]

u want to pull the afc off, pull the fuel shut off arm up, and pull the throttle, . . the gov arm should hit the nose of the 5 plate, . . the nose sticks out and is just above the bottom of the plate. If the arm is were it is supposed to be, then these are things u need to check: enough boost, check for leaks, boost line to afc housing, enough fuel pressure, ie. , overflow valve, primary fuel screen and fuel filter, check to see if the housing is almost full forward. Also check air filter. Good luck, Reb

 

[gjacobs]

Thanks Reb B. for the pointers. I have been doing alot of looking at old posts about lift pumps and fuel pressure. Unfortunatly they are sounding pretty familiar. I have already done most of everything on your list, and only found a small problem with the boost line to the AFC housing.

I did pull the fuel shutoff arm up and pushed throttle to the floor. The arm hit the top half of the horn on the plate. Should I adjust it so that it hits the bottom of the horn?

Sorry I am asking so many questions! Didn't really say in the directions

Thanks again

 

[jpearson]

I was in the same boat when I put my #5 plate in, the gov. arm was my problem, if you get the gov. arm adjusted like Reb's telling I think you will be well pleased.

 

[98rammer]

yes, you need the governor spring kit to have any fun. the stock converter wont transfer any power and it'll just slip while locked up. i have about 330hp right now and while i keep adding more fueling, i notice no big difference on the low end. the top end fuels harder with more fuel, but that stupid converter wont put any power through the ground under ~2200 rpms.



Tom