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TST Powermax3 and ddII'ms

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I know somebody out there has the identical truck as me and recently got an adjustable powermax. What I want to know is was it worth it? I have the TST book and the waiver form and my credit card. So my choices are stay with DDIIM's, add tst powermax 3 remote, or add the offroad version. Mike we have the same truck is the normal version enough?

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Jim

Patriot blue Y2k 5sp (badges removed) 5. 0 R/T decal,hp reduction devices, QC,SLT+,leather, camper,TT,lsd,3. 54,4x4,hd xfer case,Geno's dual gauge, K&N stock filter, Tekonsha Sentinal,Reese 12 hole wd hitch, ARE lid & bedrug liner, Sony 10 disk cd changer.

[This message has been edited by jims (edited 01-09-2001). ]
 
Huh? Whu? Sounds like you're talkin' to me. #ad
Is it worth it? Definitely a big YES! So far,the 'normal' version seems like it will be more than enough. Right now,my clutch won't handle more than the first few settings,so I can't give a full report. But yes,the combo of the normal PM3 with the DDIIm's is going to be more power than the EGT's will allow you and me to use.

You could get the comp version,but the EGT's are going to limit you to levels 5 or 6 at the highest. Seems kind of a waste to me. Remember,these big injectors are letting alot of fuel pass through.

I'd say,in three weeks I'll have a clutch in and be back at the dyno to test it all.

-Mike

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'00,2500QC,4x4,LWB,Dark Garnet,6spd,3. 54lsd,SLT,DD stage II,Psychotty air,Jacobs ebrake,Isspro pyro & boost gauges,2wd-low,Airoquip fuel lines,Smittybilt nerfs,BFG 285/75 AT's,Midland cb,Clarion 6-disc changer,10-level PM3,Reese 5th-wheel hitch
 
I agree. I am running DD-IIs and the Competition PM 3 adjustable. EGTs are too high at anything past 5. Clutch won't hold anything past 4. Rear tires won't hold anything past 3! It's awesome!
 
Thanks Mike,

#ad
You helped me make up my mind. I guess I don't need to turn my Cummins into molten iron.

I'll be looking for those dyno results when you get that clutch.

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Jim

Patriot blue Y2k 5sp (badges removed) 5. 0 R/T decal,hp reduction devices, QC,SLT+,leather, camper,TT,lsd,3. 54,4x4,hd xfer case,Geno's dual gauge, K&N stock filter, Tekonsha Sentinal,Reese 12 hole wd hitch, ARE lid & bedrug liner, Sony 10 disk cd changer.
 
Mike. I know you want to hide your box under the dash with an accessible switch to cut it off and on, but I doubt that you will ever cut it off once you get used to it. I wired a remote switch for my Bluebox thinking that I would only turn it on for pulling and blowing Flowerpots off the road. Well... . For some reason I can't bring myself to cut it off. #ad
Once you run the box for awhile you'll realize that you truck is a slug without the box. I don't guess I answered your question did I? #ad
FWIW I mounted my box on top of the fuse box in the engine compartment. It's not real pretty, but as muddy as my truck is you can't really tell! See ya, Jason.

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'99 3500HD flatbed, 5 spd 4:10 Posi, homebuilt underbody toolboxes & cowcatcher, 4" down w/straight stack(speak-up! I can't hear you!), K&N filter, what silencer ring? mudgrips, banks pyro & boost guage, sw fuel guage, 50% 3 wire BlueBox(HOLYSMOKE), Psycotty air, thinking about 1/2" fuel lines(real hard)
 
Strick,
I was originally going to buy a Blue Box. I wanted to do just like what you did,as you know the wires are easy to get to on a BB. I borrowed a BB for two weeks,so yes I knew before I got the PM the truck would feel like a pig with the box off,but it's kinda hard driving slow or starting uphills in the rain when the box is on.

My arm isn't long enough to reach the glove box while I'm driving.

-Mike
 
While we're on this PM3 subject. I want to know from the other PM3 owners... where did you mount your PM3 box? I'm still strying to figure out where I permenently want to mount this big box. Originally,I wanted to hide it behind the dash and run an on/off switch up to the top of the steering column,but you can't with this box. The inside is filled with epoxy and I can't get to the power wires to move the on/off switch.
I guess I can still hide it under the dash,but that would mean leaving the box on all the time,and I didn't want that. The thing is,I don't want the box in plain view.

-Mike
 
Mike,
Am I missing something here, but I thought on the new box with the remote that setting 0 was off.
Jim
 
Mike,
In their book and on their website it says that 0=stock power 1=15hp and each level adds 15hp up to level 9.
Jim
 
MikeR, Level 0 on the PowerMax3 adjustable adds no fuel or extra power, thus you can essentially turn the power off by going to level 0.

You must leave the 12 volt keyed wire connected or you will defeat the automatic boost device in the computer and will get a "low voltage from MAP sensor "code. You can add a remote switch if you like, but it must be added by breaking the fused wire in the PowerMax harness, the wire that connects to the injection pump.
 
No. 0 is the first fuel level in the 10 level adjustment. On the remote,there is only room for a single digit display,so it goes from 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 instead of 1-10.
You have to flip the switch off for no fueling,but the box still acts as a boost module,even in the off position.

-Mike
 
Oops! that's what I get for opening my big mouth! I have never used it in "0" so far. Jim got me thinking,so while I was driving last night I left on "0" to see if the fueling indicator would light and of course it doesn't. Sorry,and thanks for clearing that up for me.

Mark,
Thanks for the tip on tapping a switch in the fused wire. I didn't want to mess with cutting power to anything because I knew cutting off the ign switch power would defeat the boost device.

-Mike
 
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