Tuners

[NIsaacs]

Ozy, does the Smarty have a boost fooler? If not, it needs one.

As far as the OP goes, he started two threads on the 19th and has not been back since, so.....

 

[Ozymandias]

Ozy, does the Smarty have a boost fooler? If not, it needs one.

As far as the OP goes, he started two threads on the 19th and has not been back since, so.....

Yes the S03 does the boost fooling.
I've read all over the internetbut most of the info is soo confusing.
I'd like to just find some numbers to dial into the S03 and call it good.
The Truck is stock aside from the boost elbow, the transmission is beefed up, it is used for heavy towing.
All I find are numbers for heavily modified engine of all kinds...

 

[JR]

Smarty does not require a boost fooler, it is already in the programming. Just an elbow to adjust the actuator

Is he running the stock HX35? May be time to make up a rig to check for boost leaks.

 

[JR]

Its been a while, but have you tried running a higher # tune? As I recall 3 is on the lower end, maybe you won't see much above 25# anyhow?

 

[Ozymandias]

Its been a while, but have you tried running a higher # tune? As I recall 3 is on the lower end, maybe you won't see much above 25# anyhow?

I could but I'm not sure if, let's say #5, is safe to tow.
Like said, the Infos are confusing.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I'm working on a friends 99 right now, we have a Smarty S03 - for now I've just set it to canned #3 for him.
How does that torque setting work? How do I do that?

Also I've a problem to unleash the Turbo. I built in a boost elbow but I can't get more then 25psi boost, no matter what I do to the elbow, even fully shut (pliers on the hose) i don't see a higher number. What's wrong here?

Do you have the REVO software installed on the Smarty?

What kind of injectors are in the truck?

 

[JR]

I could but I'm not sure if, let's say #5, is safe to tow.
Like said, the Infos are confusing.

Gosh I forget which setting I ran, so many years ago that I set it and forget it. It was still on the same setting when I sold it, I am thinking 5 but could have been 7. There were only a few times over the years I had to watch the pyro and they were on some big long grades in West Virginia. We don't have those kind of grades around here.
It really depends on his set up, what and where he tows.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Do you have the REVO software installed on the Smarty?

What kind of injectors are in the truck?

If this truck has stock injectors, 25# of boost sounds about right. With stock injectors, you could definitely run a higher software number. Lots of people run software #9 with stock injectors and can tow just great. The tunes all have the same +65 HP gain, it just is how it gets there. The higher the tune number, the more compressed the throttle becomes. On #9, you'll notice the last half of the throttle doesn't do much of anything because it compressed everything into the first half of the throttle movement if this makes since to you.

 

[Ozymandias]

Do you have the REVO software installed on the Smarty?

What kind of injectors are in the truck?

The S03 is like it came out of the box two days ago.
What to do?

Injectors are stock like the rest aside from the boost elbow.

 

[petersonj]

@Ozymandias, the default #3 Software tune is a good starting point. For clarity I will refer to the following abbreviations:

* Software Number 1 - 9 - SW1 through SW9

Within each software number there are three parameters that can be adjusted. They are Torque Management, Timing, and Fuel Duration:

* Torque Management (TM – 1 through 6) higher numbers mean increase of torque in the RPM area from off-idle until turbo spools. A lower number for a torque management setting means less smoke accelerating from a stop while in the turbo lag area. Somewhere around 1500 rpm torque management ceases and full torque becomes available.

* Timing (T – 1 through 4) higher numbers mean more advanced timing.

* Duration (D – 1 through 5) higher numbers mean more fuel added.

Things I have learned:

Regarding torque management, timing, and duration – “zero” is a default setting, but no one knows exactly where that fits in any given software setting (SW1 through SW9).

In SW3 the full range of the TPS (0 -100%) is proportional to the actual position of the throttle through the full stroke of the throttle. Any software setting higher than SW3 reaches 100 % TPS as early as one half stroke of the throttle. This feature will make the engine seem more responsive, but it makes the throttle harder to control, especially with higher fuel duration settings. Because of this behavior, I use SW3 for very good throttle control (important with a manual transmission).

How does that torque setting work? How do I do that?

Are you asking for information on how to change the actual settings? If so, I can PM you with the details. You haven't mentioned if the truck is a manual or automatic or what size are the injectors.

I use SW3, TM 2, T1, D4 with my RV275's. My transmission is a NV5600. The TM2 setting allows for a smooth transition form idle through the torque management rpm's until full torque is available. It is easy for my right foot to manage smoke through the torque management area when towing and still have lots of torque available at low rpm's during transmission upshifts.

Also I've a problem to unleash the Turbo. I built in a boost elbow but I can't get more then 25psi boost, no matter what I do to the elbow, even fully shut (pliers on the hose) i don't see a higher number. What's wrong here?

That is a good question. I can easily attain 30 psi boost before I reach 2000 rpm with my settings. I just disconnected and plugged the hose supplying the waste gate boost control. I wonder if drive pressure is forcing the waste gate open on your friend's truck even with the boost hose clamped off.

- John

 

[Ozymandias]

Hi John

That's a good start here. The Truck is an Automatic, with a RevMax Valve body, so I think it will last. Injectors are stock, fuel pressure is fine above 5psi WOT.

So you think I could start with SW#3, TM2, T0, D0 to give it more TQ from start?

I'm going to check the wastegate by putting some wire on to keep it shut, so I can rule out it is forced to open.

Just to mention it, Truck is in Switzerland and we can not roll coal, a haze is acceptable for such an old vehicle but no more. Cops would take him out of traffic immediately seen such.

 

[petersonj]

That's a good start here. The Truck is an Automatic, with a RevMax Valve body, so I think it will last. Injectors are stock, fuel pressure is fine above 5psi WOT.

So you think I could start with SW#3, TM2, T0, D0 to give it more TQ from start?

I would start with software SW3 because it is the highest software setting that allows the actual throttle range to match the APPS range. (0% at idle and 100% of APPS at full throttle). This will make the throttle smooth and will feel very controllable.

For TM, T, and D, I would not use "0" because that is a default value set by Smarty and it is unknown how that value compares to the other numbered settings. If you use numbered settings (start small and slowly increase), then you can document performance under various driving conditions and compare.

TM2 would be a good starting point for torque management. To help better understand torque management, first think of how a stock ECM operates. A stock ECM has lots of torque management built in to reduce engine torque from just off-idle to a specific engine rpm that allows the turbo to get into its efficiency zone. This is primarily for controlling smoke in the turbo lag zone. Stock automatic transmissions and the NV4500 manual transmissions even receive more torque management from a stock ECM because both transmissions are lighter duty than the NV5600 transmissions. If torque management is set to TM6 (the highest setting) then the Smarty would remove all torque management from the ECM and provide full torque capability to the drivetrain by the engine based on the engine's capabilities at a specific throttle and engine rpm.

T1 or T2 would be good start for timing with an automatic transmission. Since engine rpm's immediately rise on application of the throttle due to torque converter slippage, the turbo lag zone is minimal. Once the transmission' converter is locked up in third and fourth and the engine rpm is down around 1600 rpm for cruising, then stock timing is the most useful - that's why the T1 or T2 suggestion. The turbo will be more responsive at low engine rpm's under a load when the timing is stock or near stock. This is where how individuals drive their truck matters. For example, if your friend drives a lot in the 2000 - 2500 rpm range, then more advanced timing could be useful. In my case I rarely exceed 2000 rpm's and most of my driving is between 1400 and 1900 rpms whether I am loaded or unloaded.

D3 would be a good starting point for fuel duration. When I had stock injectors I ran with D5 on a stock clutch. With the RV275's I bumped it back to D4. I have never been an advocate for horsepower, but I do want the low rpm high torque that the Cummins is capable of. The Smarty S03 follows this platform. Smarty is not big on high rpm horsepower and they say so.

I picked the following settings for my truck for these reasons:

* Software - SW3 for full use of the APPS signal with full travel of throttle pedal. This gives me precise control of engine rpm's to match road speed when downshifting or upshifting.

* Torque Management - TM2 - smooth transition from clutch engagement through turbo lag zone. Lots of available torque after an upshift falls in at low rpm.

* Timing - T1 - faster spooling of turbo at lower rpm's

* Fuel Duration - D4 - the right amount of fuel for good power and keeping EGT's in check and not stressing the clutch.

I think the Smarty S03 is best suited for manual transmissions, but with the right settings, I would think it could perform well with an automatic transmission, too.
Just take your time and document your settings and the results of each test drive.

- John

 

[Monstermaker]

I can’t believe there’s this much talk about tuners and no one has mentioned the best one available for a 24 valve, the Quadzilla Adrenaline.
It can function as a plug & play like an Edge, or at your option can be custom tuned as much as you like.
No other tuner is as effective for dialing in the most power with the least smoke.
And it’s wireless. No junk to mount on your dash, you use it with a smartphone app. if you want a monitor you can choose whatever size and type of smart screen device you want and use a cell phone mount for it.