Turbo actuator

[TMyers]

Where did you actually download yours from? The Alfa link you shared?

Yes, the link in red I posted. If you look at the bottom of the page, you will see both android and windows installer. You install the program first and after you pay, the developer sends you the unlock key.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Yes, the link in red I posted. If you look at the bottom of the page, you will see both android and windows installer. You install the program first and after you pay, the developer sends you the unlock key.

Got it, thanks!

 

[Gasguy145]

Hey guys, having the same issues on my ram and was wondering how it turned out? I Hope it’s just the actuator. 2014 Ram 3500. 113k miles. Had the codes several times for the last 6 months but it would clear after I turn off the engine, let it sit for a few minutes and turn it on.

 

[Gasguy145]

Hey guys, how did it end up working out? Have had the same codes for the last 6 months on my 14 ram 3500 with 113k miles. In some instances, check engine light would come on after warming up, then I would drive it around and turn off the engine, let it sit a couple minutes and restart it and the check engine light would clear. I’m thinking it’s the actuator as well and want to go this route if I don’t have to replace the turbo.

 

[JR]

Mine acted in the same manner as you describe. Replacing the actuator solved the drivability issues.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Hey guys, how did it end up working out?

I replaced my actuator and all is good.

 

[TommyD]

i just did my actuator,, it was fairly simple. went with the one from genos garage and i am throughly happy with it so far. seemed like a well built piece of equipment when it arrived, all billet aluminum. im told they are much more durable than OEM. give the guys over at genos a call, they can tell you all you need to know about it, or even put you in contact with the manufacturer of the part. if anyone has any questions, just PM,, i would be glad to help out.

 

[Newsa]

I saw the turbo actuator calibration on alfaobd this morning when I did a stationary desoot and a few other programing events. Is the turbo calibration very complicated? Or just tell it to calibrate and it does it?

 

[JR]

It's very simple and spelled out. But not a process designed to be done with the actuator on the truck.

Newsa out of curiosity did you do an oil change after desoot? I did last fall, I actually did the desoot right before a scheduled oil change - I'm thinking it's probably a good idea.

 

[Newsa]

It's very simple and spelled out. But not a process designed to be done with the actuator on the truck.

Newsa out of curiosity did you do an oil change after desoot? I did last fall, I actually did the desoot right before a scheduled oil change - I'm thinking it's probably a good idea.

I might do an oil analysis. But right now, I don't see a reason to. My coolant Temps did not exceed 210 F. Remember I have the extra radiator which likely helps. I only ran it for 30 mins.... not the 80 mins they recommend.

Edit:. I see you have a 2014 with the dual radiators, also. If the temps had gotten above 225, I would definately consider an oil change. But I have group V oil in there and I think it can handle the 210 F easily. Not worried about fuel dilution because the oil got hot. I run a bypass filter to keep slot levels low in the crankcase

 

[JR]

I agree it's likely not critical. But you know there is the possibility of fuel dilution to a degree, and with the added soot load and heat I think it's good practice to time the desoot with an oil change.

 

[Newsa]

I agree it's likely not critical. But you know there is the possibility of fuel dilution to a degree, and with the added soot load and heat I think it's good practice to time the desoot with an oil change.

I don't worry about soot load with my installed bypass filter. Heat didn't seem to be that high for synthetic oil. I've seen 210+ towing in the Appalachians

 

[Newsa]

It's very simple and spelled out. But not a process designed to be done with the actuator on the truck.

Newsa out of curiosity did you do an oil change after desoot? I did last fall, I actually did the desoot right before a scheduled oil change - I'm thinking it's probably a good idea.

I got my results of the UOA. No fuel dilution. Less than 1% soot. Plenty of Moly/Calcium/zinc in the additives. TBA above 2.0.

I have redline diesel 15w 40 in the sump. There was a flag on the oxidation, but their note said that happens with some types of synthetic and that they can't determine extent of oxidation. A search on the internet shows many people doing UOA with redline (ester-based) oil using Horizon/Polaris/Oil Analyzers and their tests for oxidation with redline (which is a group 5 ester-based oil) often gives a "severe oxidation" result. A source on the internet says a redline oils tech rep confirms that it doesn't mean there is oxidation.... it is just the type of oil.

I will submit an unused oil sample to them for analysis and comparison.

Oil Analyzers which is a Horizon/Polaris labs company in their report didn't suggest changing the oil. They gave me a green 1 rather than a red 4. Red 4 means critical. 1 is green, 2 is yellow, 3 is Orange, 4 is red.

So I will continue using the oil while they analyze the fresh/unused sample that I send them. Wear metal levels in the oil were low. 10 ppm iron was the largest. Most wear metals were at 0-5 ppm. And since redline oil has very high detergent levels, that usually clean up anything that a previous sump of oil may have left behind, i have enough confidence to go at least another month on the current oil.

Edit: forgot to mention viscosity is 13.9.

 

[Newsa]

I got my results of the UOA. No fuel dilution. Less than 1% soot. Plenty of Moly/Calcium/zinc in the additives. TBA above 2.0.

I have redline diesel 15w 40 in the sump. There was a flag on the oxidation, but their note said that happens with some types of synthetic and that they can't determine extent of oxidation. A search on the internet shows many people doing UOA with redline (ester-based) oil using Horizon/Polaris/Oil Analyzers and their tests for oxidation with redline (which is a group 5 ester-based oil) often gives a "severe oxidation" result. A source on the internet says a redline oils tech rep confirms that it doesn't mean there is oxidation.... it is just the type of oil.

I will submit an unused oil sample to them for analysis and comparison.

Oil Analyzers which is a Horizon/Polaris labs company in their report didn't suggest changing the oil. They gave me a green 1 rather than a red 4. Red 4 means critical. 1 is green, 2 is yellow, 3 is Orange, 4 is red.

So I will continue using the oil while they analyze the fresh/unused sample that I send them. Wear metal levels in the oil were low. 10 ppm iron was the largest. Most wear metals were at 0-5 ppm. And since redline oil has very high detergent levels, that usually clean up anything that a previous sump of oil may have left behind, i have enough confidence to go at least another month on the current oil.

Edit: forgot to mention viscosity is 13.9.

Actually, Base # was 6.74

 

[Regcabguy]

I replaced my actuator and all is good.

Your old buddy Pablo replaces those frequently on the newer ones.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Your old buddy Pablo replaces those frequently on the newer ones.

He’s a good dude! He helped me significantly with my ‘97 and I’m very appreciative for it!!!

 

[Regcabguy]

Yeah,he's a perfectionist and an all around great guy.