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Turbo Boost

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Was just visiting the 94-98 section and saw a question about boost levels. I have been wanting to ask this about my truck as well. My 93 has a banks power pack but I don't know what housing is on it. I get about 20-21 MPG on the freeway with 4. 10 rear gears. At full throttle 15 PSI is all there is and I suspect there should be more after seeing some posts. At freeway speed there is usually no boost or only a couple of pounds. when pulling a 6000 lb trailer up a long grade on a hot day, EGT is usually around 1000 but have seen 1100 once or twice.
Should I fool with the fuel adjustment to see what happens?
I'm new at this so forgive me if I ask any dumb questions!


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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K
 
Hi Stan
I've got a 93 with Banks also. The Banks turbo on mine is 14cm and coupled with the BD Power Injectors produces 27lbs of boost unloaded. I've tweaked the pump and adjusted the wastegate on the Banks turbo. I can increase the boost if I want but I'm happy with the current preformance. If you've got the stock injectors you will probably have to upgrade them to get up into the mid to upper 20s.
Happy Trails

'93 Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, BD Power injectors, tweaked pump - 27lbs boost unloaded.

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I went through the same thing with my '93. The Banks setup increased my boost from 13 to 16 psi at max load-not much for $700. 00. Adjusting your fuel delivery rate and full load fuel that's what will give you boost you can feel.
The adjustments are very simple-just look in this forum for the procedure. If that is not enough power (it's aways never enough) then you can go to different injectors. Bottom line for me is 22 psi unloaded uo from 16.

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'93 W350 Club Cab, 5 sp. , Factory Options: Cuummins Turbo Diesel (of course), LE package, 4. 10 axle ratio, limited slip, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Modifications: Banks stinger plus (stage II powerpack), no load rpm @ 3250, max fuel on screw and max rate on diaphragm, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck ball Mopar 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller.
 
I went from 16 psi max boost to 22 psi unloaded with just pump adjustments. The difference in driveability is amazing for zero dollars, and it hasn't affected my mileage either!

Rob

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93 W250 LE, CC, 4x4, 5spd, 4. 10's, exhaust brake(tailgaters nightmare), turned up pump, boost/pyro guages, lund moon visor, weatherguard tool box.
 
Hi Paccool,Welcome,After reading a lot of posts from a lot of knowlegable people I'v come to the conclusion that maxing out your pump CAN shorten it's life. More fuel can be added with the adding of larger injectors and leaving the pump at the factory settings. If you want more power and the cost of a new pump is no object then"crank her up"it's free power, but the cost of bigger injectors is somewhat less than a new pump and you can extend the pumps life and maybe put off replacing the it to some future date with the new injectors. . IN MHO.
 
Hey Paccool!

I'm also only get 15 PSI max form my Banks "Stinger Plus"! I was initially totally disappointed after spending the money last November to get only marginal increases in performance. I now believe my pump is just 'tired' (151,000 miles) and in need of a rebuild & fuel rate enhancment.

I do believe that you can increase boost & performance somewhat with pump adjustments if your pump is in good condition. If you're set on tweaking the pump there has been much written on the subject. Do a search for "89-93 pump adjustment", "Super hot pre 93", "more power" & "Power gains from pump adj. vs. 16cm turbo"

I do agree with Preleeguy, Power Wagon and many others when they state that the VE pump connot withstand much additional fueling w/o shortening it's life. The correct method for increasing performance is in the larger injectors and a properly functioning test-stand set injector pump that has been properly timed to the engine!

My pump is so worn that no amount of fuel tweaking has really netted much performance gain. Old School has spent much time & patience explaining the inj. pump operation to me and helped me realize it's time for the enhanced pump & performance injectors. See: "Full Load Fuel Adj. - "Old School" you out there?!" if interested in extensive dialogue.

Inj. pump & injectors are my next purchase. It's hard to spend the 'Big Bucks' on a truck that appears to run fine, but it's the untapped potential we're all after!

Just my experiences... ... Keeno

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1992 W250 5spd. 3. 54 gears, LSD, Banks "Stinger Plus" consisting of a 14cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" exhaust/muffler, pyro/boost gage, K&N, Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift to clear 305/70R/16 Goodyear MT's, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil
 
I can't seem to stop sticking my nose into this topic #ad


The VE pump uses a single, large (12MM???) plunger to pump fuel for all the cylinders. That plunger travels it's entire stroke 3 times for each engine revolution. That means, that at 2500 engine rpm, the plunger is doing 7500 strokes per minute. It rides up on little rollers mounted in a cage that's roughly 2. 5 inches across and rides on a cam with 6 lobes arranged in a circle. It is pushed BACK down those lobes by strong springs. Imagine the beating those springs take!

That plunger's large size means that it requires a tremendous amount of force to push fuel into the line and out the nozzle.

How these pumps often fail is by that cam begins to flake it's lobes. That seems to happen when the stress of those millions of cycles works on a minute flaw in the metal, and it chips off somewhere.

Now, the point of all this. Cranking your fuel screw a bunch SERIOUSLY increases the load on that cam plate. Now, maybe it will take it, and maybe it won't. So, cranking your fuel screw may or may NOT shorten pump life... To be precise, it increases the chance of catastrophic failure. If your pump was going to fail, it might do it sooner, but more likely, it just pushes a few over the edge that might have made it past your ownership otherwise.

The top of the plunger looks like a castellated nut. There is only a tiny sealing area between the discharge ports and where it can leak off. Once it wears or erodes a bit, attempts to get it to generate ever higher pressures merely results in leakage past the plunger - and faster wear on the plunger.

It will do it for a while, but eventually, the wear will catch up and you need a new hydraulic head... for BIG bucks #ad


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ICQ 3807791 (BBSMan)Home Domain www.my2kcity.com (Under construction)
Email powerwagon@mymailbag.com
12 Valve Forum moderator and Procrastinator extraordinaire...
Tow-er '65 Power Wagon Crew Cab, Tow-ee '70 Boles Aero 28'
 
Wow!!
Thanks for all the follow ups you guys gave. The answer is about what I expected but the part about the pumps failing is a little scary. Now I'll have to decide to go ahead full bore or leave alone for a while longer. It's hard to imagine how it would run if the boost were double what it is now ( 15 psi )and the fuel was turned up.
I'll look up the pump adjustment and see if it's something I want to tackle. I'm learning as I go and some times it's a little scary to start tweaking and not know for sure what it is I'm doing.
Anyway, thanks again for all the info.

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K
 
Like I said before, the secret to power is to change injectors. That relieves the stress on the pump, allows you to crank it a bit, and gives you MORE POWER at the same time. (that's my best Mr Scott impression... i'm a trekkie too!)



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ICQ 3807791 (BBSMan)Home Domain www.my2kcity.com (Under construction)
Email powerwagon@mymailbag.com
12 Valve Forum moderator and Procrastinator extraordinaire...
Tow-er '65 Power Wagon Crew Cab, Tow-ee '70 Boles Aero 28'
 
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