Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo housing removal

[DuallyDean]

I need some advice from fellow TDR members that have done turbo housing swaps. I am switching from the stock 12cm wastegated housing to a 16cm non-wastegated. I pulled the entire turbocharger off the truck, but after 180,000 miles, I am having great difficulty seperating the exhaust housing from the bearing housing. I got the 4 bolts loose, and have soaked the counterbore seam with WD-40, but can't get the housing to break loose. there aren't any really good spots to strike sharp blows with a hammer either. I could really use any tricks or advise anyone has. Thanks.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Use short bolts with nuts on the ends and place them between the pieces and jack them apart by backing the nuts off of the bolts.

 

[chrleb1]

i sometimes put the housing in a vise and then try and twist it loose or hit it so it will turn. Thats just one idea.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Put it back on the truck and let the manifiold hold the housing, then all you have to do is tap on the compressor housing with a rubber hammer to drive the two apart.



Jim

 

[y-knot]

I don't realy have any advice for you. But when mine was changed... ..... it feel apart. Hum... I wonder... . ??... you think the synthetic oil I have run since it was new helped???... ... I do.

 

[krs]

"Hum... I wonder... . ??... you think the synthetic oil I have run since it was new helped?"



I hope not. There isn't normally oil at the turbo - housing joint. If there were it would likely be a bad turbo seal and make serious smoke.

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by KRS

"Hum... I wonder... . ??... you think the synthetic oil I have run since it was new helped?"



I hope not. There isn't normally oil at the turbo - housing joint. If there were it would likely be a bad turbo seal and make serious smoke.

That is what I was thinking.

 

[y-knot]

Then I would imagine it did not help.....

 

[DuallyDean]

Thanks for the tips--the jackbolt idea did the trick. The new housing fit with plenty of clearance, and I made sure to use a liberal amount of copper based anti-sieze compound on the joint and bolts. I imagine that living in Minnesota and 180,000 miles on the clock had something to do with the removal difficulty. There was no way that thing was coming apart by striking the compressor housing, unless I didn't care about breaking the compressor housing in the process.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions.

Dean