Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Turbo Install And Break In?

[AOsipower]

Getting ready to install my HTT Quickdiesel 64/14 and i was wondering if anyone with a little more experience then myself had any tips for the install/break-in.



Is there anything you can do to avoid lack of lubrication on first start-up? because the turbo has no oil in it yet?



Any tips for installing this turbo or similar on a 6-speed 24v?



Does it need to be broken in in any specific way or can you drive it hard from the beginning?



Also just added smarty and upgraded my comp to a drag... should i not put them both on until the turbo has seen a few miles?





Thanks in advance... if you have any other tips or advice that I didnt ask a question about feel free to post... any advice is much appreciated!

 

[AKAMAC]

If you have the down pipe and clamps all you should need is a 15mm angle box wrench for the lower rear bolt. Have some high temp hose and hose clamps if you need to cut the oil return tube for fit.



Here is a picture of what wrench will look like.



http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...tical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes





For break-in I let mine heat cycle four or five times before I put any load or stress on it. Lube will occur as soon as you start it, just let it idle a couple of minutes.



It won't hurt to have to programming installed but the temptation to "just once" will be there if you do. Mike

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

I poured oil in mine and spun it by hand a few times right before I started it

 

[AOsipower]

Anybody else have any tips for the install? And also can I run my truck when my comp is away getting the drag upgrade... basically will the truck run without the comp box in when the harnesses are still hooked up?

 

[NoSeeUm]

You could grab a hold of the compressor hub bolt while you have a partner start the truck and only let it idle. You can check for leaks at the same time. Gives the turbo a good lubing before you let it spin. Then let it go and keep your fingers out of it.



Jim

 

[Cummins724]

Just be sure you pour some oil in the oil feed line hole & spin the compressor wheel by hand a few times before starting the engine. The oil return line probably won't line up perfect right out of the box. You will need to loosen the bolts on the compressor housing & turn it to make the tube fit..... this is called "clocking" the housing & must be done to most new turbos. I have installed 5 different Ht turbos on my rig & never had a problem with the oil return line.

 

[GOT-Torque]

As stated above, just pour alittle oil in the feed line hole and spin it by hand for a few minutes.



Never heard of having someone hold the compressor wheel nut while starting the engine I can't afford to lose my fingertips so I'll stick with my method and leave that one to the pro's.



Drive it easy for a few days to ensure everything is working properly, no leaks etc, then you can fully test the holding capability of your headgasket:-laf



Have fun!

 

[NoSeeUm]

As stated above, just pour alittle oil in the feed line hole and spin it by hand for a few minutes.



Never heard of having someone hold the compressor wheel nut while starting the engine I can't afford to lose my fingertips so I'll stick with my method and leave that one to the pro's.



Drive it easy for a few days to ensure everything is working properly, no leaks etc, then you can fully test the holding capability of your headgasket:-laf



Have fun!

LOL



Well it was my first time, so I was dying to try it. One hand (gloved) on the bolt, the other protecting my most precious body parts. In the end, it was no big deal.



Jim

 

[getblown5.9]

Anybody else have any tips for the install? And also can I run my truck when my comp is away getting the drag upgrade... basically will the truck run without the comp box in when the harnesses are still hooked up?

yes you can run your truck, but you NEED to unplug the comp map sensor and plug the stock one back into the block until the comp come back, or you will have a 10psi, 55mph max turd of a truck... ask me how i know. :-laf

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

yes you can run your truck, but you NEED to unplug the comp map sensor and plug the stock one back into the block until the comp come back, or you will have a 10psi, 55mph max turd of a truck... ask me how i know. :-laf

Ditto, me too!:-laf

 

[SKargo]

If you have the down pipe and clamps all you should need is a 15mm angle box wrench for the lower rear bolt. Have some high temp hose and hose clamps if you need to cut the oil return tube for fit.



Here is a picture of what wrench will look like.



http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...tical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes





For break-in I let mine heat cycle four or five times before I put any load or stress on it. Lube will occur as soon as you start it, just let it idle a couple of minutes.



It won't hurt to have to programming installed but the temptation to "just once" will be there if you do. Mike

Just bought a wrench like this off the Matco truck, I will be starting my install this evening!

 

[AOsipower]

It's a good thing you got that wrench... make sure it has a pretty steep offset. I just installed mine last weekend and thought i could get away with a shallow one and it cost me about an hour of work, a bruised wrist and busted nuckles. LOL