turbo install issues, need help and advice

[Mhannink]

i just installed a s300 turbo on our 06 dodge, installed the boost fooler and started the truck. now i have some bugs to solve. first, the quadzilla boost fooler doesnt seem to be working, as soon as i turned the key on it had a good for map sensor low volatage, if i remember right, i dont have the actual code numbers with me right now but will try to get them tomorrow. also had a code for the wastegate controler input high, it is unplugged and i need to find the resistor for it, need help with this too, but i am wondering it the 2 codes are not related. if i solve the wastegate code will the boost fooler start working correctly?



also i am having a problem with the exhaust brake. it is a bd brake that was installed on the factory turbo with no problem, now when i engage the brake it starts leaking, i cant hear it even under decent throttle, only with the brake engaged. am i missing something? i struggled to get the brake on the turbo, it has been my experience with exhaust v-band style clamps that when you get everything lined up pretty close so that clamp can grab each flange, when you tighten the clamp it sucks everything in nice and tight. well it wouldnt do it here, and even now its obviously not right. so i am wondering do i need to get a different style clamp for the new turbo? the old housing does look to be thinner then the new one at the mounting flange. is there a seal i should have that makes it all work nice? whats going on? my first thought was even though i was told the bd brake would work, the turbo is undoubtably designed for the factory elbow. with the exhaust brake the butterfly valve sticks out towards the turbo and clears the housing. could it be interfearing with getting it to seal? the flap does seem to be moving and the brake working, but i know its not sealing. anyone have any ideas?

 

[cerberusiam]

You can get the WG fooler form Industrial Injection or even build one yourself if desired. IIRC, a 1 watt 100 ohm resistor will do the trick.



The boost foolers can be bad out of the box. Its electronics and thats just the way it is. Remove the BF and see if the code goes away. Check all your connections and try it again. Sometimes one end or the other doesn't make perfect contact and you have to mess with the plug or just get another.



You don't need the boost fooler to drive the truck if you keep the boost reasonable. Since you removed the WG controller boost won't be limited and it won't cause a defuel without the WG fooler. The MAP code can cause running issues and defueling so that one needs addressed.



Definitely sounds like you either need a different connector or EB. Hopefully its something simple.

 

[Sandflea]

As cerberusiam said, boost foolers can be bad right out of the box. The first one I got didn't work at all, threw a code, and put the truck in limp mode. I returned it to Quadzilla, and they sent me a new one no questions asked. The new one works perfectly.

 

[JJPage]

V-Band clamps stretch every time they are re-used, you may want to purchase a new one. At the same time, if the clamp is catching both flanges, and still not pulling them together, you have alignment issues that the strength of the clamp cannot overcome.

I am not sure if you are referring to the clamp between the turbo and exhaust brake, or exhaust brake and down pipe, either way, try loosening all the clamps, re-align, and start snugging them up together a little at a time, instead of completely tightening one clamp and moving on.

You may have to break the down pipe loose from the rest of the exhaust before you can get a tight seal, this is not easy, if traditional type u-bolt crimp clamps are holding the exhaust components together. I have learned to go the extra expense and purchase band clamps to replace the crimp style on new or replacement exhaust systems. Jess

 

[DE Jeeper]

i have a completely different set up, but tha same problem with the eb. i wound up having a machine shop cut a groove for copper wire in the turbo housing. as the v band tightens the copper wire acts as a gasket like a fire ring.



aaron

 

[Mhannink]

i talked to the guys i bought the turbo from, they think it could possibly be the valve for the brake creating a little interference, so when the truck gets back i am going to look at it more closely.

jjpage, i had everything completely loose and or off, still could not get it to match up. close inspection it looks like the brake and turbo are being spaced off a little bit, im thinking of the above mentioned butterfly valve.

 

[DValentine]

You can place a piece of tinfoil around the two flanges then install the V band clamp. I had a slight leak on the Pac Brake on my 98 and solved it tinfoil.

D

 

[Mhannink]

Ill keep that in mind as I work on solving the problem