Turbo Install

[Moose]

Im planning on putting the SPS66 and ATS manifold that Ive had sitting in my garage on my truck some time next week... I was wondering if there is any thing I need to know aside from what the instructions say... Im gonna have to drive the truck to work the next morning so I dont want to risk being dead in the water cause I didnt do something I should have... Any extra info would be appreciated... Im trying to get my truck ready for the dyno event next weekend in Buda, Texas





Moose

 

[Diesel Power]

you will have to relocate the trans dipstick tube and you might get some hose or something similar for your oil return line on the bottom of the turbo! thats about it, let the bolts on the turbo and manifold soak in a penetrating lube as long as possible. should be problem free. good luck

 

[SOLER]

When I replaced my turbo, and also when I tried to take off the manifold when I tapped it for the thermocouple (EGT gage), there is a bracket for one of the heater hoses. It's the biggest pain. So much so that I didn't take off the manifold. Other than that, it isn't too bad. It took me and a helper about 3. 5 hours to get old turbo off, and the replacement. Keep in mind that it was a simple R&R, and I didn't have to mod anything. You will have to keep in mind the differences of what you're pulling, and what your are putting in its place.



SOLER

 

[BradyWilliams]

With your six speed you won't have to do anything with a trans. dip stick tube. Use the two new studs that we have sent you with the turbo. Thread them in the back two bolt holes on the exhaust manifold/turbo mount, about 5-6 threads. Tach the turbo gasket in place on the turbo with some high temp silicone or weather strip adhesive. Install the drain tube and gasket. Put the turbo assy. down in the engine compartment and lift it up on the two new studs. You need to have a new turbo nut in your hand, thread the new turbo nut on the stud and spin it up the threads as you wiggle and lift the turbo up to the manifold. Do the same thing on the opposite stud. You want to make sure you get the nuts to spin up the studs as far as you can get them to go with out tightening with a wrench. Pick out two of the best bolts/studs and nuts that were mounting the old turbo, and install them in the front two bolt holes as needed. Tighten them all with a short combination wrench. Slick up the drain tube orings with STP or oil and then slid it into the grommet. Make sure it goes all the way in. Swap the old oil inlet fitting over to the new turbo and thread the oil feed line on a couple of threads. Install the exhaust, turbo discharge and intake connections. Make sure to plug in the mass air sensor. Plug in the boost fooler that we sent you for 04. 5-06. Now before you start the engine it is important to bleed all the air out of the oil feed line. You can do this by disconnecting the injector harnesses and cranking the engine. But can be done faster by just bump cranking the engine and if it starts shut it off immediatley. When the air is gone and oil is air free, tighten the oil feed line fitting. Start the engine and let it idle. Check for leaks and listen to engine/turbo for about five minutes. If everything is tight and no leaks are appearant and turbo sounds good, your ready to test drive. New oil and oil filter is advisable with turbo install. If you just changed the oil there is no problem. Hope this helps. Thanks

 

[BradyWilliams]

If your installing the exhaust manifold at the same time, some of our customers have told us that installing the turbo to the manifold first is easier. But only if you have a manifold that is already assembled. Thanks

 

[jwilliams3]

With your six speed you won't have to do anything with a trans. dip stick tube. Use the two new studs that we have sent you with the turbo. Thread them in the back two bolt holes on the exhaust manifold/turbo mount, about 5-6 threads. Tach the turbo gasket in place on the turbo with some high temp silicone or weather strip adhesive. Install the drain tube and gasket. Put the turbo assy. down in the engine compartment and lift it up on the two new studs. You need to have a new turbo nut in your hand, thread the new turbo nut on the stud and spin it up the threads as you wiggle and lift the turbo up to the manifold. Do the same thing on the opposite stud. You want to make sure you get the nuts to spin up the studs as far as you can get them to go with out tightening with a wrench. Pick out two of the best bolts/studs and nuts that were mounting the old turbo, and install them in the front two bolt holes as needed. Tighten them all with a short combination wrench. Slick up the drain tube orings with STP or oil and then slid it into the grommet. Make sure it goes all the way in. Swap the old oil inlet fitting over to the new turbo and thread the oil feed line on a couple of threads. Install the exhaust, turbo discharge and intake connections. Make sure to plug in the mass air sensor. Plug in the boost fooler that we sent you for 04. 5-06. Now before you start the engine it is important to bleed all the air out of the oil feed line. You can do this by disconnecting the injector harnesses and cranking the engine. But can be done faster by just bump cranking the engine and if it starts shut it off immediatley. When the air is gone and oil is air free, tighten the oil feed line fitting. Start the engine and let it idle. Check for leaks and listen to engine/turbo for about five minutes. If everything is tight and no leaks are appearant and turbo sounds good, your ready to test drive. New oil and oil filter is advisable with turbo install. If you just changed the oil there is no problem. Hope this helps. Thanks

THATS GOOD ADVICE GUYS!!

 

[Moose]

Thx for all the timely replies... One of the guys from the local TDR chapter is gonna help me put it on tommorow...



Moose

 

[ToddGentry]

Can you just plug the solenoid from the stock turbo in?

 

[CHolman]

I just installed mine this weekend and you'll save yourself a lot of headaches by installing the oil return line and well everything to the new manifold, that way you can torqe everything down. "TRUST ME"

 

[CSilkowski]

Heater hose bracket

Is not as bad as some make it out to be. Was not a problem for me. Will need to bend it some though. For me it's a lot easier taking off the turbo w/manifold attached than just the turbo alone.

 

[Tomeygun]

Now before you start the engine it is important to bleed all the air out of the oil feed line. You can do this by disconnecting the injector harnesses and cranking the engine. But can be done faster by just bump cranking the engine and if it starts shut it off immediatley. When the air is gone and oil is air free, tighten the oil feed line fitting.

I thought I was slick and when it came time to do this to my truck after installing my turbo... I grabbed my extra "non-sentry" key that I had, If anyones every tried to start a truck with a sentry theft system BUT with a non-chipped key, IT will never start, Just crank and crank, etc



BUT I never got any oil of of the line, I had heard that 3rd gens dont build oil pressure without starting... Anyway, thoguht I'd throw that out there!

 

[jwilliams3]

You didnt crank long enough if you didnt get any oil out of the line.