Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo might be bad-Will a 24 valve (98') hx 35 bolt right in???

[djbobo]

Help me please. My turbo went south yesterday and is passing oil through the innercooler and smoken up a storm. I'm not stuck on the road or anything but... .....

My 97' truck is in a trailer park in No California and I am in Utah. If I can find a turbo that can be directly bolted in with hand tools then I won't have to tow it 750 miles back here. I'm driving back to California saturday and found a turbo here from a 98' 24 valve for about $450.



I got only a couple days to find one that will work. I even thought of taking the turbo out of my 98' 12 valve but it is an automatic so I don't know if it will work without modifications.



Would I be better of looking for one from the same year and transmission?



Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



djbobo

 

[ndurbin]

I believe either the 98 12v or 24v will bolt up w/o any problems. Not 100% on the 24v but the 12v will for sure.



Nathan

 

[mjoppie]

i just put a newer 24v turbo on my 98 12v and it works awsome!! i had to take 2 studs out of the turbo and drill them out to slip over the manifold studs but other than that its a awsome turbo. just watch the ex housing you get ( 9,10,12cm) my 24v turbo also had a huge wg flapper too. even with a extreme plate and 3k kit i cant break 25psi, time to get a boost elbow. if you need a core i got 2 of them damn turbos.







matt

 

[djbobo]

matt



Which size ex. housing did you get and and is t the same one you woul recommend?

Ya the turbo sounded like a weed eater before it started blowen smoke. The 24 v will need a core but I don't think mine is good for it.



dj

 

[bgilbert]

Brand new, modified hx35 from PDR is $650. $450 is way too high for a used one, then have to give em a core??!! I think if the 98 24V was a stick you'll be fine it will be a hx35-12. If auto it will be a hy35-9?? Not sure. I'm sure any would bolt up, but you might have to loosen exhaust clamps under the to move back the downpipe if a 9cm housing is used instead of a 12. Then you'll have to watch your pyro as the 9cm housing will run hotter. www.piersdiesel.com.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

In terms of bolting up. the only concern is the wastegate line. 12 valve autos and the 24 valves have a 1/8 NPT fitting on the compressor housing with an elbow, hose to the wastegate pot. 12 valve Sticks and maybe the Cal autos (sorry, I can't recall for sure) have a T at the back of the afc housing, and run a pipe across the engine, down past the exhaust manifold, to the wastegate pot. Also the later 24 vavles have the wastegate pot on the compressor housing instead of on a bracket. I'd use whatever turbo seems to be in good shape and is cheap, take a 1/8 NPT plug with you, new gasket, tools.

 

[djbobo]

Thanks for the advice.



I did as Mr. Gilbert suggested and went with a new HX-35 from Piers. They were temporarly out of stock but got it two days ago and installed it yesterday. Everything bolted up easy enough. No exhaust adjusting or stud and bolt swapping.

I didn't relize that the exhaust housing could rotate 360 dg. around from the compressor side. This only meant that I had to put the two halves on loose enough to spin as I fit it to the correct alignment for the oil drain tube with the engine block. Once everything lined up I tightened the two housings together ,put on the new supplied gaskets, pre-lubed the bearings, unplugged the fuel solenoid, then cranked it for 10-15 seconds. Plugged the solenoid back in and fired her up.



Next question if I may?



What do I do with the remaining motor oil in the intercooler??? I disconnected the bottom tube from the engine side of the aftercooler and let it drip out as much as possible while at idle.

Is this good enough?? There are no indications of any metal shavings from the old turbo - just clean oil.

Any suggestions would be much appriciated.



dj

 

[Billywj]

You Could Off Got The Same Turbo From Hi-tech Turbo In Midval Utah