Archived turbo nightmare, need experienced advice.

[phil7146]

2001 5.9 with 334,000 miles had head milled rebuilt 15,000 miles ago +20 injectors as well.

my stock turbo went out, I replaced it with a rotomaster remanufactured turbo ... stock replacement. after install it had bottom end power but no towing and the top end was horrible just to reference .. I'd do 90 mph at 2300 rpm before the change and
I'd do 70 mph at 2300 rpm after the turbo change ..
so I called up and long story short f2f or a brand new turbo replacement for the exact same price.. well this one is a night mare it came with no part.. and then the oil feed line had no threads no adapter nothing to attach the feed line too. so I bought a adapter plate and the oil drain lime does not match up so I'll be fiddle getting around to get that to work.. so when I looked at the oil drain line outlet in the turbo... what .. turbo catridge.. it's threaded... ???? which is confusing. it is completely backwards from the rebuilt turbo. that one I just screwed in the oil feed lines male and Walaaa but this one seems upside down.. the threaded inlet is on the bottom side .. before I install this i would like to get some imput on it.

 

[GAmes]

I'd do 90 mph at 2300 rpm before the change and
I'd do 70 mph at 2300 rpm after the turbo change ..

And what has that to do with the turbo? Sounds like you never shifted into overdrive.

The hot side and the cold side can be clocked on the few turbos I have had my hands on.

 

[phil7146]

I'm not sure exactly but it no just chokes on the upper end.. like there just isn't

And what has that to do with the turbo? Sounds like you never shifted into overdrive.

The hot side and the cold side can be clocked on the few turbos I have had my hands on.

the top end seems to be non existent. like no power left, I hate to say but like it's maxed out. .. when the day before it was the normal punisher that she's been for the past10 years for me. so as a update I gotahols of my factory original. they both have arrows cast into the body. yea they point in different directions. so I'll call tomorrow find out the steps and hoping it'll be fine afterward. p.s. a buddy of mine said the same thing about no connection between the two.. he thinks it is my clutch slipping up at those speeds.. what was your idea? thank you

 

[GAmes]

I thought you had an automatic and it wasn't shifting into overdrive. Since you have a manual trans I agree with your buddy. That has nothing to do with the turbo.

 

[cerberusiam]

At 2300 rpms there should be no clutch slip that isn't painfully obvious at lower rpms, rpms are going to generate more clamping force. Without boost numbers it i shard to tell if it is the turbo, but ,since that is all you really changed it is likely just not performing at higher rpms. Less air equals less power equals less speed at same rpms. Turbos are a lot like injectors in IP's, mess them up and things just don't work right. Trying to go the cheap route frequently isn't. Might be further ahead to send the stocker in for a rebuild and upgrade than mess around with a rebuilt from some place that sounds like a plumbing store.

 

[GAmes]

Less air equals less power equals less speed at same rpms.

Less air equals less power I agree with, but less speed at the same RPM (using the same gear)? How does that work? If it was a slipping tq converter would your answer be the same?

 

[cerberusiam]

Enough variability in driving route, throttle position, and observation and variances can show. Without having actual boost numbers to compare it is hard to say WHAT is happening. Just that changing 1 piece and problems occur suggest the obvious. OP likely needs to do more testing and vlaidation to be sure.

Manual or auto, if you lose 20 mph there WILL be signs of problems. Slipping clutches in either are going to generate observable results. A clutch slipping that much at speed will get HOT fast and will be noticeable and likely show signs at lower rpms. Maybe the OP missed the obvious, hard telling without concrete info. An auto with a slipping lockup clutch is also very noticeable.

 

[petersonj]

If the truck has a manual transmission and was run a specific mph in specific gear at 2300 rpms before the repair and now runs a different speed at the same rpm and the same gear, engine performance is not the cause. Either something is slipping, the tachometer or speedometer is faulty, or the original information given needs to be re-evaluated.

If the transmission is an automatic, then the OP needs to confirm which gear the transmission is in and whether or not he converter is locked up

- John

 

[GAmes]

Slipping clutches in either are going to generate observable results. A clutch slipping that much at speed will get HOT fast and will be noticeable and likely show signs at lower rpms. Maybe the OP missed the obvious, hard telling without concrete info. An auto with a slipping lockup clutch is also very noticeable.

As is the norm, you didn't answer the question. I'll rephrase it. How does an engine turning the same RPM with the transmission in the same gear result in a lower speed if something isn't slipping?

 

[Bob4x4]

As is the norm, you didn't answer the question. I'll rephrase it. How does an engine turning the same RPM with the transmission in the same gear result in a lower speed if something isn't slipping?

lol the song whiskey river comes to mind

 

[cerberusiam]

As is the norm, you didn't answer the question. I'll rephrase it. How does an engine turning the same RPM with the transmission in the same gear result in a lower speed if something isn't slipping?

There is a myriad of ways that observed phenomena is observed to happen. I answered, you evidently cannot put preconceived notions aside to see the answers. Consider: observer rpm is not true engine rpm.

Does one change a turbo and automatically assume the tires have been affected when things do not work the same?

 

[The patriot]

Even with very significant hearing loss, I can tell the difference in RPM's were talking about here.
It's several hundred, not say.....50 rpm's....

 

[BigPapa]

I don't know what you two are fussing about. I can't understand the OP's posts to start with.

All I can gather is that he swapped turbos and now he has no top end power and the turbo doesn't seem to be the same turbo. How did he install it if the fittings and tubes don't fit? All the rest seems to be useless mumbling.

 

[petersonj]

All the rest seems to be useless mumbling.

Well said.

- John

 

[cerberusiam]

He bought 2 turbos, the rotorooter ones doesn't work quite right for some reason. He bought another supposed stock replacement but it doesn't seem to be clocked correctly.

The rest is hard to decipher and probably due to observation variables, hence my questions about boost and other things that might indicate a problem. Turbo install could have impacted PCM and wiring harness, that could skew readings since it is all on a bus and electronic generated and read. Lots of things are possible so really hard to tell the WHAT from the posted info.

 

[BigPapa]

Lots of things are possible so really hard to tell the WHAT from the posted info.

My point exactly.

 

[GAmes]

I answered, you evidently cannot put preconceived notions aside to see the answers.

Oh, so today I can be driving in 6th gear, 2000 rpm, 60 mph then tomorrow 6th gear 2000 rpm will only give me 45 and it is a turbo problem? ROTFLMAO

 

[phil7146]

Oh, so today I can be driving in 6th gear, 2000 rpm, 60 mph then tomorrow 6th gear 2000 rpm will only give me 45 and it is a turbo problem? ROTFLMAO

first to apologize for the lack of information compared to effect I was attempting to get as much info in as possible.
2 the original question was about the positioning of the turbo oil lines because I did find out today yes that brand new turbo was 180 out and had I installed it , it probably would have been a bad deal. the parts store is exchanging it tomorrow.
3 in reply to the less spread higher rpms the buddy of mine has rode in truck before and after turbo exchange and he says can't be turbo but I can't feel any slippage of the clutch.. I do start out in second most times because the granny gear is driving me crazy but unless I'm getting some slippage as I'm feathering the clutch starting in second and I don't know about.
4 having it be a gauge malfunction is a good possibility due to the mileage of the motor and oil/evéything leaks which brings up another question but I'll post that in the normal forum
thank you all for your input I am glad I joined .. you all are definitely more versed in mechanics than i. I do love my truck so I'll be posting all sorts of questions. thanks

 

[Tuesdak]

Return krap rebuild to parts store. Use a REAL source for turbos like Turbo Resource http://www.turboresource.com/ who can rebuild your turbo or supply new ones.

Perhaps you should consider the many aftermarket turbo's offered. After all you are one screw up away from a oil fed engine runaway and the junk you are getting isn't up to minimum standards. Getting parts stores to cover collateral damage from their junk isn't easy esp. if it takes the engine.

You are not clear as to why you are replacing the turbo in the first place?

 

[phil7146]

Return krap rebuild to parts store. Use a REAL source for turbos like Turbo Resource http://www.turboresource.com/ who can rebuild your turbo or supply new ones.

Perhaps you should consider the many aftermarket turbo's offered. After all you are one screw up away from a oil fed engine runaway and the junk you are getting isn't up to minimum standards. Getting parts stores to cover collateral damage from their junk isn't easy esp. if it takes the engine.

You are not clear as to why you are replacing the turbo in the first place?

the original turbo was making a scratching noise oucould hear as I was driving. the inner fins also showed this. the second trbo had no power and I'll be damned to settle for that .. not caring wats wrong with it . truck runs perfect before turbo started making noise.