Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) turbo removal ? for preturbo pyro

[Bandit1]

i am installing dual pyros and i need to pull the turbo away from the exhaust manifold alittle bit in order to block the shavings from drilling the manifold. i tried to crack them loose tonight and damn they are on there, i guess the rust doesnt help. i sprayed them penitrating oil and will try again tom. anyone have any tips on a better way to remove the turbo bolts? also can i just use grease on the drill bit and take it really slow to catch all the shavings on the pre turbo side. would that be suficient? thanks to all

 

[Snow man]

Dont pull the turbo it isnt necessary. Just drill it with grease,and run a pencil magnet to get the most shavings you can,I dont even bother collectign shavings on my own stuff,it blows right out the second it fires. By the time the turbo spins up those chips are in the muffler or out the tailpipe.

 

[Deezul1]

The grease and magnet trick work good. I have done 4 that way and no trouble so far.

 

[CumminsPower98]

what the others said. I have done 3 this way and will be doing another soon.

 

[LSMITH]

Just drill it and tap it, clean it out with a magnet. No need to pull turbo.

 

[JBlock]

Lots of Grease

Use heaps of grease on the drill bit and clean it a few times as you go, especiassly before puching throug, then use greas on the tap and follow that up with pencil magnete until it comes back clean. I did a 1/4 inch pipe tap for a heavy ISO probe no problems.



Joe

 

[illflem]

your turbo, your choice

Think it was either Piers or Joe D who posted here about a metal chip from a pyro install wedging in-between the turbine and housing stalling it. When exhaust heat hits the non-spinning turbine it warps = $$$. A few others have reported similar experiences. You don't see any pyro manufacturers recommending the grease and magnet method because they don't want the liability. Doesn't happen often at all but I sure wouldn't want it happening to a truck I worked on.



I've done it both ways and have found it just about the same amount of work to move the turbo back out of the way as messing around with grease and magnets that might not do a complete job. Just use real penetrating oil on the nuts, not WD-40.



Another advantage of removing the turbo is that you can see how deep the probe is in. Most of the probe failures I've heard of were when the probe tip was touching the bottom of the manifold.

 

[Joe G.]

I removed my turbo to do the drilling and taping. I didn't trust the grease method. Still don't. It took a bit of patience to get the bolts loose. Soaked them down good with penetrating oil and left it overnight. Then more oil and a few good raps with a hammer to shock the bolts a bit. After that I was able to remove them. They were still tight and I had to be carefull.

 

[thaile]

The best way that I have found to get the nuts loose was to take a torch and heat the nut till it starts to change colors and then put your wrench on the nut and turn it right off. Once it cools it will then go right back on. This worked great for me. I tried the oil and all that stuff but couldn't really get them to work. Hope this helps. Tony.

 

[illflem]

Should have mentioned I removed a turbo this weekend to install an ATS manifold, the nuts were a little tough to remove but penetrating oil fixed it right up. Then had to remove the studs from the stock manifold to install on the ATS, they unscrewed with just fingers, go figure.

 

[rdrose]

i didn't take the turbo all the way off, just made enough room to get the shop vac end in there. then just turn the vac on and drill all the metal shaving where sucked right out and i feel better that i know there are no chips going throught the turbo. just a suggestion. happy drilling

 

[CumminsPower98]

Another little trick IF you don't remove the turbo is to magnetize the drill bit and the tap plus put grease on them. This is how I did 3 trucks and when I went in with the magnet not much came out. But I agree the safest way is to remove the turbo.

 

[Forrest]

I greased the bit & was armed with a magnet on a flexable shaft. Really surprised me how many shavings fell thru.

 

[Bandit1]

thanks to all that replied, i am going to go heat the bolts and try some more oil, if that doesnt work then i am going to take my time and use lots of grease on the bit. i got the top 2 off all ready but the bottom 2 are REALLY tight and hard to get to. thanks again

 

[CPG]

Sometimes the turbo nuts fail to come off with penetrating oils. If you have a torch with a #2 tip, heat up a nut until it is just turning red, then shut the torch off, Light a candle and let the drips from the candle soak in around the nut. Use your safety glasses here as the drips may sputter up. Wait a few seconds and then turn to loosen. For some reason this works. Do the other ones in turn. They usually come right off. This was shown me years ago when I served my apprenticeship as a mechanic for a Cummins dealership in San Francisco under a Swede & German back in 1951. These men were the best. I Was a "young un" then.



Chuck

 

[illflem]

Chuck, I've had success with the same method but never lit the candle, just touched it to the hot nut.

Haven't had to use that method again since using Kroil or PB Blaster.

 

[d90boy]

Originally posted by illflem

Chuck, I've had success with the same method but never lit the candle, just touched it to the hot nut.

Haven't had to use that method again since using Kroil or PB Blaster.

Those are my favorite two penetrating oils too, just wish Kroil was easier to get a hold of. All Wd-40 is good for is cleaning up my Snap-Ons after use!

 

[CPG]

Kroil, where obtained ?

illflem, have heard of the Kroil name but can't locate any so far.

Have heard the Caterpiller agency's use it , but cannot find the stuff in any auto supply around here. Heard its good.

Thanks,



Chuck

 

[illflem]

Chuck, they only mail order Kroil here's their website http://www.kanolabs.com/



Don't know if they offer it it on the website but they recently had a two 16 oz can for one deal in a mail flyer, $12 shipping included. Two cans will last me five years.

PB Blaster is at most auto parts.

 

[CPG]

Concerning Kroil

Thanks a lot Bill, Joe George wants this stuff too so I will transfer him a reply.



Chuck Goode