Turbo replaced at 3500 miles (RAM 2500 6.7)

[DMosby]

Yesterday my 2008 Dodge RAM 2500 with 6. 7 turbo diesel had the check engine light come on with a P2262 code. My translation is "turbocharger Boost Pressure Not Detected - Mechanical" based on a list someone else posted to the TRD forums.



I took it in to the dealer today fully expecting them to tell me they were going to clean the turbo based on what I have been reading. I also was concerned that this would be the start of my long adventure with turbo problems.



I just about fell out of my chair when the service advisor came in after about 30 minutes and told me they were replacing the turbo. Truck had 3524 miles when the check engine light came on and about 3534 when it rolled into the dealer.



The service advisor told me that they have not had any problems with these once the turbo is replaced. I sure hope that turns out to be true as I really do enjoy driving the truck.



Truck does not sit and idle a long time. I do warm it up if cold with me sitting in it for a minute or so and then drive it gently for a couple blocks and cool it down to below 400 degrees when I'm stopping. That is typically not too long. But no extended idle. I am not driving with the exhaust brake on.



Does anyone know if the new turbo is a new design and if so what changed? I sure hope it is.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Truck does not sit and idle a long time. I do warm it up if cold with me sitting in it for a minute or so and then drive it gently for a couple blocks and cool it down to below 400 degrees when I'm stopping. That is typically not too long. But no extended idle. I am not driving with the exhaust brake on.



QUOTE]



I'd bet this is your problem. Not enough drive time for truck to work correctly.

 

[DMosby]

Regarding the comment "Not enough drive time for truck to work correctly", I do not understand this.

I have a Scangauge II in this thing and when I jump in and see coolant temp of 40 or below it doesn't seem unreasonable to give it a minute of warm up and then two short blocks of low speed driving before hitting a more major road and higher speed. Correct me if I'm wrong.

As for idle before engine shut off, I think I'm following the times given by the owners manual pretty well.

I did not spot anything in the owners manual that tells me to always use the exhaust brake. If that was a fix wouldn't Dodge save thousands (millions?) of dollars in warranty work by mailing out a postcard instructing owners to always use the exhaust brake? They must have engineers that have spent many hours dealing with this problem and they know where to find me.

I got the truck to replace a smaller tow vehicle used with a small trailer. Admittedly the Dodge has more power than I need, but I wanted option of trailer upgrade later and I like the rig. Out of the 3500 miles of driving half, maybe more, has been highway. I didn't get it as a daily driver as it is a second car and not as good mileage as the other, but it is going to see trips to the grocery store.

I have been driving for 40 years and this is my first diesel. I won't claim to be smarter than anyone else on the TDR forum, but I am a reasonably successful engineer and even managed to get a college degree so I think I can still learn a thing or two if given a good explanation.

So educate me as to turbo failure in 3500 miles: Warm up idle, cool down idle, not using exhaust brake, trips to grocery store, letting it coast too much? If I am always either giving it fuel or hitting the brake my mileage will be pretty poor and I'll be on a first name basis with the mechanic that installs new brakes. And I can't see how "exhaust brake always" won't hurt fuel mileage. Please explain that one.

Replacing a part that fails after 3500 miles makes no sense if the replacement part has identical specifications. Someone has to to have some data on replacement turbo compared to original. I would think this would help explain the problem and (attempted) solution.

 

[sag2]

They just released a newer turbo with the NIC of AC. Look on your repair order and see if they charged out the AB or AC level turbo. There were quite a few AB's left out there so depending on your dealers volume they could have installed either one. If your dealer is just replacing the turbo he is not getting to the root of the problem. As outlined in the various TSB's the entire after treatment system needs to be inspected/cleaned/replaced as necessary or the soot just keeps coming back. What exactly does the technician say he performed on the RO? Was the flash updated to the latest calibration? These are some of the questions to ask.

As for warming up and cooling down, start it and drive it as soon as the oil pressure comes up. Drive it normally just like you would any other engine as long as it is unloaded. For cool down, unless you just came off the freeway or were towing, shut it off just like you would any other truck. Use your head and the engine will last hundreds of thousands of miles. The warnings in the owners manual is for heavy duty cycles, not for running around empty.

 

[Simplysmn]

last but not least Drive with exhaust brake on it will help also

 

[DMosby]

Truck back from turbo replacement

Thanks SAG2 for your clear and good information regarding turbo replacement.



I picked up the truck today. Got a chance to speak with the diesel tech that did the work on it. The new turbo is "AB" not "AC" version as SAG2 mentioned in earlier post



Work done text includes: Removed Egr crossover tube and inspected, soot load abnormal and dry. Removed egr system. Egr crossover tube, Egr valve, Intake, TCV, Fuel rail, Grid Heater, Bypass valve, bypass tube, intercooler all removed and cleaned to like new condition. All sensors cleaned. Egr cooler replaced. Air filter replaced. Replaced turbocharger filled cooling system to spec. Replaced O2 sensors and wrapped exhaust. Cleaned all exhaust and engine side sensors. Cleared DTC's. Test drove on freeway and performed mobile de-soot. Returned to shop and monitored soot load while idling for 20 minutes. Soot load steady 12 grams. Let vehicle soak overnight, test drove again. No dtc's or driveability concerns after repairs. Customer advised to use exhaust brake more often than not.



The shop tells me that they have had no problems with these once the turbo replacement has been done. Due to replacement of this the port for my turbo temp gage had to be re-drilled. The tech advised doing this in the exhaust manifold rather than post-turbo location. So I'm now seeing a bit more responsive turbo temp reading. I haven't driven it much yet but looks like the temp readings drop a lot faster with this probe placement which makes sense.

 

[Xgunfighter]

Gee, you mean some dealers actually do all that work. Mine in Missoula just said on order, "found slide sticking internal to turbo, changed turbo". Guess all the cleaning etc. . isn't necessary after all. LOL. Of course the POS still surges etc. .

 

[RVTRKN]

Have your high idle feature enabled as well, and warm it up before you drive it like I do mine. I let mine run at 1200RPM for five or so minutes and then go, sometimes it can run for ten minutes before I get back outside. Using your exhaust brake will help somewhat, if your using your truck as it was intended. It keeps the variable vane mechanism moving all the time not allowing soot to build up. The C&C EB is always on, unless its switched off, and in your truck you must engage it every time you start your truck. I would get into the habit of turning it on every time, just remember to leave it off when roads are icy.

 

[sag2]

Work done text includes: Removed Egr crossover tube and inspected, soot load abnormal and dry. Removed egr system. Egr crossover tube, Egr valve, Intake, TCV, Fuel rail, Grid Heater, Bypass valve, bypass tube, intercooler all removed and cleaned to like new condition. All sensors cleaned. Egr cooler replaced. Air filter replaced. Replaced turbocharger filled cooling system to spec. Replaced O2 sensors and wrapped exhaust. Cleaned all exhaust and engine side sensors. Cleared DTC's. Test drove on freeway and performed mobile de-soot. Returned to shop and monitored soot load while idling for 20 minutes. Soot load steady 12 grams. Let vehicle soak overnight, test drove again. No dtc's or driveability concerns after repairs. Customer advised to use exhaust brake more often than not.

Looks like you have found a good technician that followed the proper cleaning procedures. It doesn't get much better than this.