Turbo?

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wont start

Do I need called to repentance???

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I'm looking at getting a new turbo for my truck, but don't want to have to put studs and what not in. What is a safe boost pressure than I can have who ever I deside on set the waste gate to open. Thanks... . Trucks a 92 W250 all stock...
 
If your truck is stock you will see somewhere around 15-20 pounds boost with the H1C. I do recall hearing 50-60 pounds is the edge of reason. I am sure others will chime in here.
 
Really depends on the condition of the headgasket. Some go at 45-50, others can take 60 for a while.

Beside, it isn't the boost you want, it is airflow. I make 38# with my HTT turbo, vs the 45# I was making with the PDR HX40 I had. The more air you can move, at lower PSI, the better. Not to mention the lower boost will also be at lower intake temp. The more you compress something, the hotter it gets.

Are you going to BOMB this truck? That will be a factor when getting a new turbo. If keeping it stock, a HX35 would be a good replacement.
 
Yeah, in this BOMBing thing, you need to decide what goal you want to achieve and make moves to achieve it. If you want to end up with a good 275hp, your needs will differ from if you want 500hp. Like KTA says, decide what you want, and buy stuff once, cause once you install a turbo, set of injectors, whatever, the value of it decreases immdiately.



Daniel
 
I agree! Figure it out, and do it once. Not like the guy who bought a set of 370's for $400 and sold them 2 months later for $250. I benefited though! ;) Thanks buddy! :D
 
Thanks guy's okay how about a strong 300 hp? What mods would I need? I'm thinking of trying a Auaroa 2000 fom ATS. I've had a SPS 62 on my third gen, now have a HTT, but I'd like to try them all. My 92 is going to be my everyday driver. It's going to be a slow build, but fun IMO... I need to get pics of it on line, but don't have any idea how. I know how to get on here and BS with ya'll, but that's about it. Put it this way, this truck is the cleanest 92 I've ever seen. If ya'll have a camera phone PM me you # and I'll send you some pics and see if you don't agree...
 
Really depends on the condition of the headgasket. Some go at 45-50, others can take 60 for a while.



Beside, it isn't the boost you want, it is airflow. I make 38# with my HTT turbo, vs the 45# I was making with the PDR HX40 I had. The more air you can move, at lower PSI, the better. Not to mention the lower boost will also be at lower intake temp. The more you compress something, the hotter it gets.



Are you going to BOMB this truck? That will be a factor when getting a new turbo. If keeping it stock, a HX35 would be a good replacement.





I totally understand that, that is why I upgraded my inner cooler when I up graded to my 64... The top end is awsome now!!!! I'm at or around the same boost, but she just keeps pulllin now...
 
PODs,4" exhaust,HTT stage III (60mm compressor) or bigger, fuel pin or grind your own, BHAF??

I have HTT stage II, spools quick, but I think I need more air to hit 300HP. I have room with my fuel screw, but EGT's are high enough already. BHAF made no difference on mine at 258 HP (max boost at those settings was 28psi), but guys higher than that report good results.

At 32 PSI boost, with quick spool, my daily driver is a blast. Valet switch (solenoid on the AFC boost line) lets me putt around town with minimal smoke most of the time, but when I want traffic behind me to disappear, all it takes is the flick of a switch and the go pedal. :D

Tons of fun!

good luck with the build.

Ken
 
I will be watching this thread closely. After my 200 mile pull at 62 mph, I think a little modding is in order. I will be ordering gauges soon so that I am able to tell the difference.

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack.
 
Beside, it isn't the boost you want, it is airflow. I make 38# with my HTT turbo, vs the 45# I was making with the PDR HX40 I had. The more air you can move, at lower PSI, the better. Not to mention the lower boost will also be at lower intake temp. The more you compress something, the hotter it gets.



Brian,



Be prepared to be flamed. Folk don't want to hear that. They want BIG boost numbers. It equates to big HP numbers... ... ... . :rolleyes:



I try to reason that the copper tube on an air compressor gets REAL hot for a reason but the connection (between the two) is seldom made. Also, hot air balloons rise when the flame is turned on. ;)
 
I think it was Joe Donnelley (I could be wrong, but it was one of the high HP guys who write frequently in the magazine) who said boost is nothing more than resistance to flow. That is why when you port the head, you may see a reduction in boost as well as EGT, but an increase in power. That could be why we run the most boost -we have the most restrictive heads(?) of the Big 3. I know my g/f's boss's 02 chipped PSD ran about as fast as my 91, but only made half the boost.



DP
 
Isn't that funny that we spend $$ to increase boost with bigger turbo and then spend $$ to reduce boost with 4" exhaust, porting, etc. :-laf



I agree, it's flow, not pressure however related those two are. Air+Fuel in = Air, heat, power out.



We used to have high vacuum chambers at the labs and people would just say to put a bigger pump on it to get better vacuum. :rolleyes: Tubing size, bends, obstructions, and materials were just as important. I see the same concept here.
 
We need to use a vacuum pump for a turbo? :confused: Did I miss the latest issue of Diesel Power Mag? :mad:



I agree with you guys, jokes aside. I plan on doing away with my grid heaters, I think thats the most restrictive thing in the flow right now. I may try to build a better inlet piece, (above the grids).
 
How many have done away with the grid heaters? How many of those use the truck in the winter months? Say, at 10 degrees above, or lower temps? I have been wanting to ask this for a while, and kept forgetting it. I would presume that the median temp for those who have removed said heaters would be a good deal higher than Arctic temps.

Dave
 
We need to use a vacuum pump for a turbo? :confused:



I agree with you guys, jokes aside. I plan on doing away with my grid heaters, I think thats the most restrictive thing in the flow right now. I may try to build a better inlet piece, (above the grids).



That's what a turbo is isn't it? It just vacuums all that air into the engine. :-laf



I agree with the grid heaters. I see lots of obstruction there, that and porting or fabbing a better air horn. Hmmm Will the bombing never end?
 
Thanks guy's okay how about a strong 300 hp? What mods would I need? I'm thinking of trying a Auaroa 2000 fom ATS. I've had a SPS 62 on my third gen...

I'd go with a 62 or other s300 SPS/HTB2 type charger instead of the little A2000. I'm sure it will allow more room to grow as well.

Greenleaf said:
Be prepared to be flamed. Folk don't want to hear that. They want BIG boost numbers. It equates to big HP numbers... ... ... .



I try to reason that the copper tube on an air compressor gets REAL hot for a reason but the connection (between the two) is seldom made. Also, hot air balloons rise when the flame is turned on.

You mean the 70 pounds of boost out of my h1c and 12cm housing ain't 700hp???:mad::-laf:-{}:)
 
Well I have a blown SPS 62 sitting in the floor board of my ol GMC and will probably just send that back in to be re built. I called about the Auroa 3000 and changed my mind real quick. I'd be a lot more money ahead just sending this one back in... I wasn't so much talking about more boost = more power I just wanted to know what a safe pressure would be for a 12 valve to handle. I'm thinkin 30 PSI would be a good all around "safe" pressure for this truck, I'm I right? Thanks...
 
I am running 30+ with a stock H1C, non I/C'd. I'm scared to think what the charge air temps are and worry some about ingesting a compressor wheel...
 
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