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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) turning up the pump

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need Rasp help ASAP

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A.C. Comp viscosity??

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The screws on the back of the pump, on the fire wall. The ones that have the lead filled heads, the anti tamper deal. What are these screws for. a buddy of mine told me he adjusts them on any truck he turns up, be he was kind of vague as to what they do, and and how much to adjust them. Any advice would be appreciated.



Thanks,

Sean
 
i am interested to know what kind of adjustment he would make there? :rolleyes: any chance of getting more info out of your buddy? are you talking about two screws on the very back of the pump, look like they are holding a plate on about the size of a pack of cigarettes? sorry for the questions, but please do tell. i am thinking he is talking about the cover screws that would give access for governor lever adjustment.



Dave
 
Word of caution!!!!-- Do your self a favor and do some reading on here about "turning up power". So you'll will be informed when he starts talking about doing this to your engine. This site is a GOLD mine on information. Just be in the knowledgeable.

Marv.
 
Yeah, I'll ask him for some more info on it. and thanks for the concern about the turning up power. I have how ever already done the research, I turned up my old twelve valve, and have done a couple others, I never had any problems with my old one, and I ran it for about 75k with a turned up pump and 370's before I sold it. But thanks anyways, you can get in a lot of trouble, by listening to garage mechanics, sometimes, sometimes they are quite valuable sources of information, but I don't like doing anything without other people backing up the theory.



Thanks again,

Sean
 
Yeah thats what I'm starting to think. He's been doing this for a while, but he did blow up one motor in his truck already. So I don't know, I was just curious, if everyone else says its a bad idea, i'm gonna stop looking at those two little screws. The lead caps are there for a reason. thats what I'll tell myself.



Thanks Guys,

Sean
 
Dont get me wrong, you can mess with those screws, but all they do is hold on a cover plate for access to the govenor lever adjustment shown below is a pic of the back side of the pump where those screws are I got off the Piers® website

Here Is a good website with some beginner reading to get aquainted with "turning up the pumps" on these trucks.
 
There is no reason to go in there unless you know what you are doing. the screws alone do nothing but hold a cover in place that, when removed, would allow access to the governor lever adjustment. if you have a good fuel plate (read=not your buddy with a grinder :-laf ) then you can check the governor lever for correct position when you install the plate, but an adjustment i very rarely needed. turning those screws alone on the back of the pump will do nothing for power. Signal73 called it... . twenty feet, minimum.



Dave
 
Drag has fallen down the slippery slope, well maybe he just sliding slowy. . :)



Most wise souls do not adjust the governor rack unless the pump is on a pump stand. You can end up with a "run-away" or super touchy governor if its not done correctly. For example, a stock truck with oem fuel plate might have 9. 5-12. 5 mm of rack travel. Drop a performance cam/fuel/torq/ plate in and you would easily see several additional mm of rack travel. Several TDR vendors offer pumps that have about 16. 5-17mm of rack travel with a variant of a Bosch fuel stop plate. I'm guessing once you are in the 19+ rack travel zone (depending on other pump mods, fueling mods. etc) that you might start to suffer with some streetable right foot control over a speed bump, off-road etc.



The "pump screw" normally "turned" up when these tuners "turn the pump up" with this method of increasing power is the "stop" the the speed lever hits at the high idle position. This is old news. It might net 20-25hp and your egt's may skyrocket. Same goes with sliding stock plates full forward etc. minimal power gains and possible egt issues.



The right way to add more fuel (at the pump) is a calibrated method. . for most people the TST plate of their choice is a smart place to start. They did some serious dyno testing to see what plate in what pump should net xx amount of additional hp and torq.



Good luck

Andy
 
Andy Redmond said:
Drag has fallen down the slippery slope, well maybe he just sliding slowy. . :)



Slope? :eek: Nope, i like people telling me somthing can't be done, that's already been done and working for over 245,000 miles. And if someone says it can't be done and I have not done it, i go right out and try it.



To the people that told me, "you can't do... "



- 4500 rpm on the stock motor

- 72psi on the stock head gasket

- 72psi on a single charger

- 437hp with the stock cam plate and stock turbo charger

- rip the center out of a flexplate

- shoot a foot long flame through 22ft of liniar exhaust pipe

- Mobil 1 since day one

- drive 4400 miles round trip to get rained out at a race

- 5 First place Summit Bracket Racing trophies, 13 runner up Summit Bracket Racing trophies.



just to name a few, no flame :cool:



Oh yeah, to answer the question. I think they call the lower adjustment a cheater screw. When the pump is on the stand and they are rebuilding for a stock aplication, they can fudge the output by a few cc's +/-. It seems to add a little more kick, but then again do we realy need MORE fuel..... :confused:

#ad


YES PLEASE!!!!! :cool: :cool: :cool:
 
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