Twin questions

[Pmaloney]

Well it looks like I will be going with twins quicker than I thought. I was wondering a few things on the setup of them though. First off for the oil return can you run a Y to return both turbos through the factory location? If not what has been the general process for the oil return? Also would I do better with my HTB2 for the top charger or go back to a HX-35. The HTB2 is a wastegated 62/12. I am going to be running a HT3B for the large charger and am going with twins for towing. Thanks to all the twins gurus out there.

 

[Partyat33]

Yes, you can do a Y. We took out the return pipe and welded it into a y fitting. Or you can do it with hose connection.

 

[Cooker]

Some suggest a Y is ok while other swear against it. All I can say is there are quite a few guys who Y'd their drains together and they have not had a problem yet. FWIW - Piers twins kits for the 12v engines come with a bung to weld onto the oil pan. Apparently he does not think the Y is a good idea.



As far as your top charger is concerned, do you like how your HTB2 drives and tows as a single? If you think it might not quite spool or drive as well as you would like you might consider bumping back down to the HX35.

 

[Pmaloney]

Thanks for the replies, not sure if I'll Y it or weld a bung into the pan. As for my HTB2 before I did the injectors I loved it. Dont get me wrong with the injectors it pegs my 35psi gauge in an instant and not laggy, just not enough air for the fuel. So I guess I'll keep it.

 

[Cooker]

It sounds like the HTB2 would work very well for you as your top charger. I wasn't so much referring to EGT control but just overall drivability.

 

[**ICEMAN**]

near the rear of the block you can pull the metal (freeze type plug) and use the same type metal tube with o-ring seal used on the single turbo drain.

you must be very careful removing the plug or you will be dropping the oil pan to retrieve it.

i drilled a small hole in the center of the plug and installed a large screw.

i then used a big pair of vise grips to clamp onto it and pull it out.

 

[justinp20012500]

near the rear of the block you can pull the metal (freeze type plug) and use the same type metal tube with o-ring seal used on the single turbo drain.

you must be very careful removing the plug or you will be dropping the oil pan to retrieve it.

i drilled a small hole in the center of the plug and installed a large screw.

i then used a big pair of vise grips to clamp onto it and pull it out.

In my photo gallery on DTR i have taken a picture of the tag that comes on the fitting that you buy from the dealer. You can get the P# off of it.



http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/showphoto.php/photo/4564/size/big/password//sort/1/cat/500



Justin

 

[Pmaloney]

Thanks again for the great and quick replies! Getting excited just thinking about these twins. Next part is figuring out what to do with the head, I hate to have it tore apart for weeks waiting for head work so I am thinking about just installing some studs. Boost around 45 should be OK. Any opinions on this ?

 

[robertyoke]

In my photo gallery on DTR i have taken a picture of the tag that comes on the fitting that you buy from the dealer. You can get the P# off of it.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/showphoto.php/photo/4564/size/big/password//sort/1/cat/500

Justin

the dealer wanted 40 bones for that fitting. so 3/4 inch copper line from home depot fits nice and snug, add some rvt and glue it in place. half inch npt black pipe works good also.


cummins dealer has that drain for 13~14 bucks but it was on and may be still on national back order!

 

[robertyoke]

hey justin, were did you get those nice turbo flanges at. I had to use 3/8 bar stock and cut them with plasma cutter, the truck place I got the pipe from had no listing for them.

 

[Cooker]

near the rear of the block you can pull the metal (freeze type plug) and use the same type metal tube with o-ring seal used on the single turbo drain.

I was going to say the 12v's do not have this nice feature because I thought we were referring to a 12v here as I only took the time to read the 1996 part of his sig. Now I realize he has a 24v engine so the plug is the way to go.

 

[JaMan]

Pmaloney while you are figuring out your twins try adjusting the wastgate on the HTB2 to about 45psi and see if it doesen't shut those EGT's down, mine cools awsome from 35 to 50 psi boost I checked this with the boost gauge off and checking the temp. of the air at full boost out of the manifold fitting, no difference in temps from 20psi to 40+psi just keep it under 50psi because of headgasket problems. Mine won't get over 1400* on 5x5 with 120hp injectors making over 460hp. Try it you'll love it.



Jared

 

[Pmaloney]

Thanks JaMan, I'll give that a try untill I get my twins done. That may be a good "band-aid" for now, I guess I need to get some studs on it too, that head is going to launch into orbit at some point.

 

[justinp20012500]

the dealer wanted 40 bones for that fitting. so 3/4 inch copper line from home depot fits nice and snug, add some rvt and glue it in place. half inch npt black pipe works good also.





cummins dealer has that drain for 13~14 bucks but it was on and may be still on national back order!

I paid $13. 00 for mine. I have an employee discount, but I don't think it accounts for that much of a diff.

hey justin, were did you get those nice turbo flanges at. I had to use 3/8 bar stock and cut them with plasma cutter, the truck place I got the pipe from had no listing for them.

I made them out of 1/2" mild steel. I have a good friend that scanned the flanges and made a program for his plasma table. I also cut a set on the flow jet. The flow jet makes much nicer cuts.

Thanks JaMan, I'll give that a try untill I get my twins done. That may be a good "band-aid" for now, I guess I need to get some studs on it too, that head is going to launch into orbit at some point.

And when it does let go, its makes a nice oil/coolant slurry under the hood. Mine let loose at 60PSI. You might just be able to add studs without pulling the head and get away with running 50-55psi all day long. My stock HG lasted for 6 months at 60psi. (Stock head bolts, stock gasket)



O ya, after it blew I went with Haisley's studs and fire rings.





Justin

 

[DHRA]

I was going to say the 12v's do not have this nice feature because I thought we were referring to a 12v here as I only took the time to read the 1996 part of his sig. Now I realize he has a 24v engine so the plug is the way to go.

Actually the 97 and 98 blocks did have the aft oil return.

 

[CATCRACKER]

PM,



are you going with the ht3b on the bottom if so what size housing.



a nice combo for the $$ seems to be 35/14 or ht3b/22 with the 35 dumping in the the ht3b. i dont know what kind of drive pressure you will see with this but i know piers has a ht3b for cheap. alot of twins kits dont have the wastegate dumping into feeding the big turbo.

 

[Pmaloney]

Yes I am going to run the HT3B on the bottom, I am going to go with the 26 exh. housing. Drive pressures from what I have gathered from others should be around 1:1 with this until around 70psi which is fine for me because I will most likely tune these to around 45psi until I can find a spare head to get oringed etc...

 

[CATCRACKER]

45 cool psi should get you about 500hp and low egts with larger injectors (i am guessing) which vp44 pump do you have HO or not hopefully its not the HO



you going with 12 or 14 housing with the hx35?

 

[**ICEMAN**]

I was going to say the 12v's do not have this nice feature because I thought we were referring to a 12v.

cooker,,i just checked a 12 valve this morning and it has the same second drain hole as my 01 (non 53 block)24 valve. it was a 98 12v (53 block). i'll check my 94 later.

 

[Cooker]

cooker,,i just checked a 12 valve this morning and it has the same second drain hole as my 01 (non 53 block)24 valve. it was a 98 12v (53 block). i'll check my 94 later.

I was under the impression that the early 12v's did not have the convienient plug to access for the 2nd drain line. The PDR kits, like BPINE and dwason (I hope I have the names right), welded a bung on the drain pan. I was pretty sure sometime in 1997 they switched to have the the easy access plug.



As I said originally I was thinking the truck was a 1996 and I thought at that time my info applied. Now I guess I don't know jack



I will take a peak at my 96.