U-Haul Manager: 6000lb. tow capacity for 2500???

[Udaloy]

Preach it

You tell 'em brotha. Hallelujah!

 

[brods]

Disclaimer: I totally agree that more attention should be given to towing safety.



Ok, that said, how are hitch ratings calculated? How does the WD change the loading on the hitch? There seems to be inconsistencies in the information.



I can picture a WD setup changing the torque on the hitch, but not much else. Interestingly, while the owner’s manual states that a WD setup is needed for tongue weights above 350 lbs, Dodge’s web site http://www-5.dodge.com/vehsuite/TowingGuide.jsp makes no mention of weight distributing equipment. I find it hard to believe that 350 lbs with a draw bar is going to load the hitch worse than 1200 lbs with a WD setup. So what really drives the WD recommendation since it can’t be just tongue weight?



Is it a blanket recommendation for handling that has to take into account the worst towing vehicle in the lineup, like a short wheelbase 2 wheel drive gasser? Or is it hitch strength or frame strength?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Take a look at Draw-tite's website at their hitch ratings. For the 2500/3500 Dodge Ram they make the Max-E Loader Class III hitch which is rated for 600 lbs tw/6000 lbs gtw weight carrying, 1,000/10,000 weight distributing which is slightly over what the stock factory 94-02 hitch was (I don't know what the 03+ has). They also make the Ultra Frame Class IV which is rated to 1,200/12,000 weight carrying, 1,400/14,000 weight distributing. Both are made for the 2500/3500 series. Their is obviously a difference in the hitch design. Like I said above my Draw Tite Class IV weighs at least 3 times what the stock hitch did, uses larger bolts and doubler plates on the back side of the frame to attach it, and has brackets that tie it into the bumper mounts on the frame as well. Those differences are what makes the difference. My guess would be that the dynamic loading into the hitch is different when you don't have the weight distributing bars in place.

 

[wtfd6]

my draw-tite hitch is definately heavier than a stock hitch. it was on the truck when i bought it so i dont know the specifics. but it is definately stronger than the stock one. i definately think that u-haul is very conservative on their ratings. but it is probably for the best. i used to think that they were crazy to set the max speed for tow dollies at 45. but i found out why when a vehicle started to swing on me. just my . 02.



mark

 

[GCross]

The book for my '05 says "for a class IV hitch, tounge weights over 350 lbs. need an equalizing hitch. "" Also 60% to 65% of the weight must be in front of the axles to sufficiently place 10% to 15% of the GTW on the tow hitch of your vehicle. " It also states that the maxium tounge weight rating for a class IV hitch is 1200#.

Yep, that's to way I read it in my 04. 5 manual too.



-George-

 

[Crunch]

i definately think that u-haul is very conservative on their ratings. but it is probably for the best. i used to think that they were crazy to set the max speed for tow dollies at 45. but i found out why when a vehicle started to swing on me. just my . 02.

I thought that trailer whip/sway was caused by improperly loading the trailer? I was doing 80MPH a few times on this last tow with the `85 Delta 88 and the trailer didn't whip at all. Most of my driving was between 70-75MPH. I remember towing an overloaded dual-axle covered U-Haul with a 1/2 ton from Fort Worth to Las Vegas about 15 years ago and it was whipping all over the road at most of my driving speeds. The only way to get it to stop was to speed up to get the trailer lined up, then slowly reduce my speed. Interestingly, in looking up trailer whip and the causes I found this regarding the Chevy Suburban:



http://www.countryhay.com/suburbanreview/



That reviewer seems to like the all wheel steering when it comes to reducing trailer whip...

 

[Tim]

anyone here towing around 9,000lbs with the stock hitch? I am assuming the 2500 + 3500's have the same hitch. I have the owners manual, but the hitch itself has no ratings. I believe in being very safe when it comes to my equipment and eventually I will have a gooseneck trailer and all will be well. But for now I have a 12k bumper pull trailer that's usually about 9k when loaded and headed for the mountains with my Jeep. I am wondering if I should upgrade to an aftermarket class V receiver because I am doubting the stock hitch is more then a Class III if even a Class IV. Using wieght distribution really isnt much of an option, I have severe gravel switchbacks to tow around and even with 4x4 its just not a good idea to have load distribution.

I am pulling a hair over 9,000 with my stock hitch. I tow an 18+2 bumper pull 14k GVWR trailer with my 6,000 lb rig on top of it. Trailer weighs 3,080 empty. I use a weight distributing system with 1,000 lb. bars, and a Tekonsha Prodigy.



Crunch,



Sway is based on basically, three factors. The use or lack of use of sway control, the loading of the trailer, and speed, not necessarily in that order. Load a trailer correctly and it probably will not sway... if it does slightly, sway control will keep it under wraps. The faster you go, the more likely a trailer is to sway.

 

[RogerReid]

u-haul

i do a lot of work for uhaul here in nj all auto transports are 2000 lbs. empty add your cars weight and you are close to the gvw of the trailer. and dont forget about that 45mph max. speed limit sticker on the fender of the trailer you can see when you look in your driverside mirror. tell uhaul its a vw bug you are towing and drag it like you stole it :-laf

 

[wtfd6]

the problem with tow dollies is the turntable that the front wheels are sitting on. that was why the ranger i was towing started to sway. it wasnt so bad when i slowed down.





mark

 

[brods]

Looks like most class III hitches can take 500 to 600 lbs tongue weight, so is the factory "class IV" hitch so weak it can truly handle only 350 lbs weight carrying, or is there more behind the recommendation than just hitch strength. IF there is more to it than just hitch strength, then how can throwing on a stronger hitch make it ok to exceed Chrysler’s recommendations?



I am curious since I bought a ¾ ton truck (it even says “Heavy Duty” on the tailgate ) to tow my full size Jimmy. I expected a better hitch from the factory tow package. For now I use rental yard trailers with surge brakes, where a WD setup is not an option. Seems kind of stupid to have bought a ¾ ton truck with the tow package only to have to replace the hitch to tow a trailer well within the limits of the truck!

 

[Tim]

I tow my 6,000 lb off road truck on a 3,080 lb trailer with my truck. Just use a weight distributing hitch. They're made for heavy trailers.



I just don't understand why everyone hates the concept of a weight distributing hitch. I really love mine, it takes so much of the white knuckle experience out of pulling a trailer.



I bought it only because my hitch wasn't rated for the trailer weight... . and I was so shocked with the performance that I kept it.



A new trailer hitch was going to be $200, and the WD was about that (I had some of the parts already). I just bought the WD, and I'm glad that I did.

 

[brods]

I tow my 6,000 lb off road truck on a 3,080 lb trailer with my truck. Just use a weight distributing hitch. They're made for heavy trailers.



I just don't understand why everyone hates the concept of a weight distributing hitch. I really love mine, it takes so much of the white knuckle experience out of pulling a trailer.



I bought it only because my hitch wasn't rated for the trailer weight... . and I was so shocked with the performance that I kept it.



A new trailer hitch was going to be $200, and the WD was about that (I had some of the parts already). I just bought the WD, and I'm glad that I did.

Nothing like a reformed sinner, eh? You have decided for yourself what is the best way to tow a trailer and thats good. What is good for you isn't automatically good for everyone else.



Anyway, I'm not opposed to WD hitches in general, the problem is all the rental trailers I have used have had surge brakes and I do not know if a WD setup will work with them. I assume the extra load the WD setup puts on the trailer tongue will bind up the telescoping part of the surge brake system.



Besides, back to my original question: why so low a weight carrying rating on the stock hitch? If its because the stock hitch is so weak, then that is reason enough to replace it with something better.

 

[JOblenes]

Apparently there are WD hitches that are compatible with a surge break system. Here is a clipping from a catalog describing the hitch. (I am including it as an attachment, I hope it will work. )

 

[AlexWV]

I am curious since I bought a ¾ ton truck (it even says “Heavy Duty” on the tailgate ) to tow my full size Jimmy. I expected a better hitch from the factory tow package. For now I use rental yard trailers with surge brakes, where a WD setup is not an option. Seems kind of stupid to have bought a ¾ ton truck with the tow package only to have to replace the hitch to tow a trailer well within the limits of the truck!

I agree. All I know for sure is that my window sticker says Class IV hitch but it does not have a ratings sticker on it. Then the owners manual goes on to say that a frame mounted hitch of up to class IV is supplied as part of the trailer tow package. Then the manual says that with a class IV you can tow 12,000 lbs and max 15% tongue weight. Then the manual gives the somewhat ridiculous equalizing hitch is required with class III or IV hitches and tongue weights above 350 lbs.



So when all is said and done, I have no idea what is the actual rating of this factory hitch. The manual provides nothing but confusion and contradictions. I would replace it but I have a Reunel rear bumper getting made rated for 15,000 lbs trailer weight and 5180 lbs tongue weight. So that will take care of any uncertainties



Unless of course there is some other reason for the 350 lbs in which case I reckon I'll find that out when I notice in my rear view mirror the trailer and Reunel bumper receding in the distance. :-laf

 

[ohnoitsyu]

AlexWV, in case you didn't know, just because the hitch you're having made can hold that kind of weight still doesn't mean your truck can legally carry that weight. For everyone's safety, please don't exceed the truck's rated capacities.

 

[DBurkhard]

AlexWV, in case you didn't know, just because the hitch you're having made can hold that kind of weight still doesn't mean your truck can legally carry that weight. For everyone's safety, please don't exceed the truck's rated capacities.

That's the question: what are the rated capabilities? When the dealer/website indicate a 13K or so load capability along with the 1200 lb tongue weight rating, yet the manual indicates WD is required for anything over 350 lb's, what is the real answer?



Dan

 

[ohnoitsyu]

The answer is hidden in plain sight (well disguised, I might add).



While I can't tell you your specific capacities, or how to determine them (although I thought they are on the Dodge web site), please note that when they say it can tow 13K (or whatever), it always includes "when properly equipped. " Properly equipped often means using a WD hitch, and all the other requirements (trailer brakes, hitch types, etc. ).



I'm not defending Dodge's clarity, but the info is there to be had. The owner's manuals are often vague. They don't know what options that you have on your vehicle, so the info is not vehicle specific. To confirm what options are on your vehicle, take your VIN to your dealer, and they can enter it into the system. They can print you out an options list, which will show your hitch (as a IV, I'm sure, if you have one from the towing package). If remember correctly, if you don't get the towing package, the class III hitch is your bumper.

 

[AlexWV]

AlexWV, in case you didn't know, just because the hitch you're having made can hold that kind of weight still doesn't mean your truck can legally carry that weight. For everyone's safety, please don't exceed the truck's rated capacities.

Yes I know but good to point that out. I am actually all about staying within the ratings. I didn't order the bumper for the 5000 lb tongue weight rating - that would be some monstrous trailer. Also I doubt there is a ball mount or ball rated for that. But it is rated for anything I can tow with the truck is the way I look at it.



Reminds me of when I was building a retaining wall at my house. I was bringing home these 60lbs blocks from Home Depot with my Hemi in which I had 970 lbs of payload left after I got in the truck. So I was bringing those babies home 16 at a time and I ended up needing 117 of them. On one trip there was a new F150 that took an entire pallet of the things which was 50 of them and by my math that made 3000 lbs plus the pallet plus the driver. I will confess here that the sight of that made me brave enough to take 17 on some of the trips so I wouldn't have to go back one more time for only 5 blocks.