U-joint help

[Diesel Dan]

Hello guys



It is time to do U-joints. Does anyone have the correct p/n for the Spitzer greasable u-joint. This is for an 03 short bed 6 speed. how about any info or tricks on installation. I have never had to do a U-joint before



TIA



DD

 

[TCDiesel]

Axle joints or drive-Line Joints.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Sorry



Rear driveshaft u-joints



TIA



DD

 

[SSalzer]

Precision 351 fit my '05. I'm pretty sure they're the same for your truck, but double check.

 

[rbattelle]

I have never had to do a U-joint before

This thread has a couple useful links.





Another thread.



I swear we recently had a discussion about doing universal joints when you have 0 experience with them. I can't find that thread now.



Anyway, replacing universals isn't that hard. The most nerve-wracking part (I think) is making sure you don't knock a needle bearing out of position when installing the new caps.



You also must be sure to press in the new caps straight, so they don't bind up. I apply a bit of quality nickel anti-seize to the caps before installation to help them slide in.



The rear driveshaft joints are a bear to do because they're large and are of a tight press fit. I wrestled with them for awhile. I used Precision 351A's (which are slightly different from 351's), but had to grind the snap rings thinner so they'd fit back in their grooves.



These days I usually use a 2. 5 lb hammer to drive the new caps in. I also have a 3-ton arbor press, but I really need to make a cheater pipe for it. The hammer actually works a little better for me.



There are various "tricks" to removing and installing them, with no 2 people doing it exactly the same way. The best way to learn is to have someone with experience show you how to do it.



When you grease them, pump until grease oozes from all 4 caps.



Ryan

 

[_Hyde]

DD,



I have an 03 with 6sp just as you. Both joints on rear shaft were replaced with Precision 351As on mine. As RB said, these are a little challenging due to the size. I got mine at a parts house that sells some truck parts and the counter guy said that's a big arse joint. Hope this helps.



Hyde

 

[Diesel Dan]

Thanks for the help guys,





Does anyone know if the Precision 351's or 351A's are the correct ones? also does spicer make a better product than precision?



Lastly where is the best source for getting these(pricewise) i have a little time.



TIA



DD

 

[rbattelle]

Does anyone know if the Precision 351's or 351A's are the correct ones? also does spicer make a better product than precision?



Lastly where is the best source for getting these(pricewise) i have a little time.

351A fit mine whereas 351 wouldn't fit. The current Precision catalog lists 351A as the one for our application.



I bought mine at Rock Auto. I don't know whether they have the best price.



Ryan

 

[Diesel Dan]

Ryan,

Thanks for the info.



A local shop gave me the following info



Spicer p/n type cost material



5-803X non-greasable 37. 36 Forged



5-188X greasable 24. 99 cast



These prices seem low. The parts guy says the forged/non-greasable one is stronger as the cast one is drilled for the nipple.



Any coments on this?





DD

 

[JFaulkner]

These prices seem low. The parts guy says the forged/non-greasable one is stronger as the cast one is drilled for the nipple.



Any coments on this?





DD

Doesn't matter how strong the joint is when the needle bearings are gone due to lack of lube. The OEM joints are non greaseable and they didn't last me 30k, sure they may have been strong but they still needed replaced. I suggest renting a "ball joint press" to replace the joints. I believe most AutoZone stores may have them in the Loan-A-Tool program (unless you know someone else that has one). Just make sure you don't bend the ears trying to remove the old joint or re-installing the new one. Hit the joint (or tighten the press) and tap the outside of the ear with a hammer. If it won't come right out you may have to heat it a little. I did all 3 of mine on the rear and 2 of them came right out but 1 took some "persuading". But if you bend the ear it will vibrate bad. It's not that hard to do.



I used Precisions. I would have preferred Spicers but they didn't have a part # listed but I have no complaints with the Precision 351.

 

[Andersonville]

I just got mine done. I took out the driveline and took it to Driveline Specialists in Tucson. For $30 plus parts they replaced the AAM joints with greaseable joints. Part # 1415 or 1418. I can,t amember which. $141! I got a good deal and recommend them. I got 227K out of the factory joints. They weren't bad I just hate being brokedown on the side of the road. MAKE SURE you chalk or mark the positions BEFORE you take out the shafts so you can put it back exactly the way it came out. I didn't replace the support bearing. Probably a mistake but didn't want to wait for a new one to come in. I,m sure you can find similiar service in your area. Make sure you mark the position on the support bearing as well!



PS: If you use anything besides AAM joints (assuming you have the AAM driveline) . 10 inch has to be ground off the end caps so the spring clips will fit.

 

[SSalzer]

I ground the clips down insted of the end caps. It worked fine.

 

[Jong]

I checked on this a while ago when I did mine. The Precision 351A is the Alloy version of the joint, designed to go into an aluminum driveshaft so no galling of the joint occurs, and is therefore more expensive than the 351, which is the same size just for steel driveshafts, which we have.

 

[rbattelle]

I ground the clips down insted of the end caps. It worked fine.

Me too.

I checked on this a while ago when I did mine. The Precision 351A is the Alloy version of the joint, designed to go into an aluminum driveshaft so no galling of the joint occurs

That's the first I've heard of this. Does aluminum gall like stainless? Why would Precision spec a 351A when none of our trucks come with aluminum driveshafts? I had both a 351 and a 351A on my bench and measured them both. The 351A was slightly shorter cap-to-cap.

Ryan

 

[Jong]

I was surprised the 351A was spec'ed as well, I cracked a cap when reassembling the second joint and had to run down to the parts store for a replacement and all they had was the 351's. Measured out the same, and installed the same. I've been running them for 10K and no problems. Even had it up on a lift to check for bearing play and there is none.