U Joint issues with 22k miles....

[jwilliams3]

Well lately I have been preaching on here about how you need to check your driveline angles.



Well, mine are now within spec after having to add spacers and such to the carrier unit.



The last couple of days I have had a nasty vibration that came on overnight and didnt feel like the typical driveline vibe from before. This time it was a funny "skip" type vibe that felt like something was about to check out of the Dodge hotel.



Well, it just about did. Luckily before the big diesel weekend we pulled the driveshafts off.

The rear U joint came apart and it was showing some signs of wear (needle marks).

We took off the middle joint and it was shot. Two of the nubs were completely burned up like a marshmallow at a camp fire (and smelled like one).



Next up the front U joint, it was actually looking ok and could have been around longer without issue.



New Joints:

I went to Napa and purchased 3 of the #351 U Joints (precision, greasable).

We noticed right away after removing them and comparing that the caps needed to be machined down about 1mm on each side (thanks TDR for the heads up!). So we got that done, then they would not orientate around enough to get into the smaller home on the the shaft.

We then had to trim about 1mm off of the one side of the retainer on the U joint home.

They went in after that without issue.



The shaft was then reassembled the way it came apart (thanks paint marker).

After assembly I went for a ride around the block.



ALL VIBES GONE!! Truck runs so smooth! I can't believe it!



I just hope these joints last at least 20k miles again!

 

[Cattletrkr]

... the caps needed to be machined down about 1mm on each side (thanks TDR for the heads up!). ... We then had to trim about 1mm off of the one side of the retainer on the U joint home.

They went in after that without issue.

When my rear joint went out, I replaced it with a 351. My younger brother who is more of a gearhead than I did most of the work. He said it was the worst he's ever done as far as getting things back together. However, we didn't grind/file/shave anything other than the burrs we made taking the old one out. It was a pain to get back together, but it did go... eventually. 10K later my dealer replaced that one (under DC warranty 'cause the first one should have been--gotta love a good service dept) when they replaced the middle joint and the hanger assembly. Both the middle joint and the rear were toast. I initially blamed the hanger for trashing the joints, but a day later they called and said that when they were boxing up the parts to send to DC they found a needle mark in one of the end-caps. The middle joint had be fubar'd at the factory. Now, just like JW3, I have no vibe issues. I HAD a nasty case of launch shudder that no spacer/shims could fix. Only downside now is I'm back to having zero greaseable joints.

 

[100 Proof]

[QUOTE... 10K later my dealer replaced that one (under DC warranty 'cause the first one should have been--gotta love a good service dept) when they replaced the middle joint and the hanger assembly. Both the middle joint and the rear were toast. QUOTE]



What was the 351 like with 10K on it?



100 Proof

 

[Cattletrkr]

What was the 351 like with 10K on it?

Don't know. Dealer just said it was bad. The hanger bearing was trashed and the middle joint was out. I drove it for a couple days like that so that's probably what took out the rear joint. No ill will towards precision from me, just reporting what happened. I still have a 351 in my toolbox for a spare.

 

[JHardwick]

Well lately I have been preaching on here about how you need to check your driveline angles.

I was gonna challenge this as being the bandaid in the other thread, but I didn't. Correcting driveline angles won't put grease in the bearings, but can cause a ujoint to be so straight that it won't show it's self as being dry and/or siezed.



I'm also curious about this. If you drop the hanger 1/2" for a correct angle, what happens when you put a good load on it?

 

[jwilliams3]

I have considered taking one of the spacers out for that exact situation.

 

[JHardwick]

I have considered taking one of the spacers out for that exact situation.

I'm not convinced that the "move the carrier as far passenger as possible" or "drop the carrier 1/2 with spacers" TSBs are anything but a cover up for bad, poorly greased, no zerked u-joints.



I've laid under my truck and done the nanananannann Chevy Chase thing trying to visualize the dynamics of it all (used to work on race car changes that weren't suppose to work, but did). I've even used and inclinometer ... ... ... ... . I still believe it all comes down to dry sticky ujoints. I've had 3 sets of factory joints in my truck since new. I don't rack up the free miles like I used to, but that's all in 74,000 miles. Evertime they replaced the joints it got smooth again, I just put the 351's in and it's smooth sailin again

 

[jwilliams3]

We'll see how long these 351's hold up.

I now sled pulled 3 times with them, once at IRP today.

Twice tonight at the local Tampico, which I won!!

 

[JHardwick]

We'll see how long these 351's hold up.

I now sled pulled 3 times with them, once at IRP today.

Twice tonight at the local Tampico, which I won!!

Cool Beans Oo.

 

[Cattletrkr]

I'm also curious about this. If you drop the hanger 1/2" for a correct angle, what happens when you put a good load on it?

That's why I tried to simulate a full load when I took it to the dealer for the measurements. Put a couple big round bales in the back and let the air out of the helpers. Didn't go all the way down, but closer than empty.



I think we might be on to something here with the greaseless joints. I've always hated them, and now I have another reason to do so. 351 or BUST!!!!