U-Joint Problems

[Cattletrkr]

I'm right, of course. Why do you ask??? It wasn't an easy install, maybe I just got lucky.

 

[dgieson]

Mine went on the rear at 36k ask the dealer about replacing them and was told they would use the same type with out zerks. Said no and did it myself Napa 351 good fit had to use a file on the inside of one yoke to get clearence for the cross to go in. Maybe . 004 off all together it get it in. Made a big change in the vibes I was getting.

 

[COSEng]

rbattelle,



I ground very little off of the caps. I just didn't like how little engagement the snap ring had in the retaining slots. I would guess less than 1/64th ground per side. I just hit each side quick with a 4" hand held grinder... recentered the joint and installed the snap rings (with then engaged "better").



A little difference from truck to truck may explain why you are getting different answers. It wouldn't have taken much difference for the snap rings to have gone right in.



Maybe the joints are slightly different. My joint came out of a NAPA box. I have seen others here say the joints were Precision. Is there a difference between these two brand names??



Carl

 

[Blakers]

I had the exact same problem as you guys... had the far rear joint replaced under warrantee and the new joint is dry and vibrating with less than 20,000 miles on it. I took the drive shaft out and sure enough it is tight one way and loose the other way. I didn't have a new joint at the time, so I used a fish hook to pull the seal lips back a little and got some oil into the tight caps and worked them back and forth. It sure helped and got rid of most of the vibration until I can get a new one in.



I just called NAPA and they listed the 295 joint for my 03 truck, but after reading this post, I called them back and ordered a 351. Told them to get me both of them just in case. He said the 351 is listed for an 04. Does the 03 also take the 351?



I just want to make sure I have the right one before tearing into it and ending up with the truck tied up with no joint on hand.



Thanks,

Blake

 

[whamby]

My 03 takes a 351.

 

[Blakers]

I bought a 295 and a 351. The 351 fit with no filing or cussing. Getting the old joint out required cussing and a torch. It would not budge the usual way, so I just cut the joint in half and tapped the caps in. This way there was no danger of distorting the yokes.



NAPA: you need to check your applications and update your books and website.

 

[rbattelle]

I bought a 295 and a 351. The 351 fit with no filing or cussing. Getting the old joint out required cussing and a torch. It would not budge the usual way, so I just cut the joint in half and tapped the caps in. This way there was no danger of distorting the yokes.



NAPA: you need to check your applications and update your books and website.

Good info!! Where's the zerk fitting located in the 351?



-Ryan

 

[Blakers]

Good info!! Where's the zerk fitting located in the 351?

In the center section of the joint.

 

[Cattletrkr]

Just crawled under mine tonight with suspicions of another u-joint going bye-bye. Yep, this time the center 1 of 3 is ever so slightly loose. Should last long enough for me to talk to my dealer monday and see if they'll do the labor but with my joint. If not, I'll see what there is for the 7/70 deductible. Also, that silly rubber mount for the hanger bearing is trashed. Not surprising since I've got 54K worth of Launch shudder bouncing it around. That's the other topic I'll calmly discuss with them. Time to change pinion angle me thinks. Is it safe to assume the other joints are the same as the rear-most one? I bought two last time around so I don't need to get another one, but I might just replace both remaining joints and get it over with.

 

[JHardwick]

Here we go again!!!!!



I've had my rear joints replaced twice under warranty and getting the shudder again!!!



I realize that the shudder is the 2 piece drive shaft moving around in the carrier due to a dry joint. On a 1 piece shaft, I'd never notice it till it squeaked, clunked or just plain fell out. I also realize that even at 71,000 miles I could probably go back on the 1yr/12,000 dealer work warranty, but I'm just gonna go with a good joint out of my own garage this time.



My dilema is ... ... ...



I'm gonna be ultra busy for the next 2-3 weeks. Has anybody prolonged the inevitable with a needle fitting and grease gun?

 

[JHardwick]

This dead horse has been beat so bad that it will not get read unless I start a new one or bring this one back up.

 

[Cattletrkr]

Truck got 2 new joints and a new hanger under 7/70 last thurs. Shudder seems to be almost non-existent now. After test drive on thurs. both service manager and I agreed that the hanger might have been what was causing my shudder all along. Called dealer today to say thanks, and confirm that shudder is nearly gone. He said, "well, now I'm betting it wasn't the hanger" , or something to that effect. Today the tech who worked on it was boxing up the joints to send them back to DC when he noticed something more than a little odd.



One of the end caps had an impression on the inside that was clearly from a needle bearing. This was not the joint that I had already replaced once with a precision 351, this was the factory original with 55k on it. Whoever pressed it together the very first time, didn't do it right. The center joint has been "bad" from the get-go. Now my truck has almost no shudder, I have to try to feel it.



Long story longer, I had a u-joint that was bad from the factory and possibly a hanger that was bad also. No way to tell for sure which caused the shudder. Wierd part is when I installed the Precision 351, I completely removed the entire driveshaft and checked the rest of the joints. Maybe I didn't check them close enough figuring I had found the bad one. I know nothing was noticeably tight, but maybe leverage had something to do with that.



Summary: u-joint probs suck almost as bad as trying to find a bad ground wire.

 

[Blakers]

I'm gonna be ultra busy for the next 2-3 weeks. Has anybody prolonged the inevitable with a needle fitting and grease gun?

I took my driveshaft out and found the rear joint tight one way, but not the other way. In an attempt to get by until I could get a joint, I pulled back the seal lip with a large fish hook and squirted oil into the cap and kept moving it back and forth. It got a little looser as I worked it. I put it back in the truck and almost all the vibration was gone. I didn't have a needle greaser handy at the time, so just used the oil.



Blake

 

[JHardwick]

I took my driveshaft out and found the rear joint tight one way, but not the other way. In an attempt to get by until I could get a joint, I pulled back the seal lip with a large fish hook and squirted oil into the cap and kept moving it back and forth. It got a little looser as I worked it. I put it back in the truck and almost all the vibration was gone. I didn't have a needle greaser handy at the time, so just used the oil.



Blake

Thanks Blake,



After you posted I realized that you had already posted that once ... ... ... you have to be patient with us guys on the short bus :-laf



I've got some turtle hooks and a needle point for my grease gun, I'm gonna try to put off changing out the joints for a couple of weeks

 

[Cattletrkr]

I'm gonna try to put off changing out the joints for a couple of weeks

ya kinda gotta say this like you're a bouncing sheep



THAT'S A B-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-D IDEA



Make sure you've got a spare with ya in the truck just in case.

 

[Blakers]

In retrospect, after replacing the rear joint, I believe, with a little supplimental lubrication, it would have lasted quite a long time. The joint was not worn much and none of the needles had not fallen out. The failure was strictly a case of lack of lubrication.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

I left Moran for the Sierra Trading Post Memorial day sale in Cody. In Red Lodge I felt the "lope" in 1st and 2nd that meant u-joint was toast -- 38K . How disappointing after many miles of no problems on my other two CTDs, i. e. this is my first CTD problem. Pulled into Yellowstone Country Motors (YCM) in Livingston at 1630 and they changed the u-joint, buzzing speaker, and did the weather strip TSB.



I spent the time with a salesman looking at a Sprinter Van. Gee, I'd like to have one for a campmobile. Turns out he use to contract build trail in the Cascades and Hells Canyon = much talk about horses, mules, and building trails.



They didn't charge me a dime even though it was past 36K. Some folks are just better than others and that is why I highly recommend YCM for both vehicle prices and service. I hope they will be as nice for the next u-joint failure down the road :-laf

 

[jwduke]

Can a person lube the u-joints with one of those hypodermic needle adapters?

 

[Blakers]

Can a person lube the u-joints with one of those hypodermic needle adapters?

I don't think you could do it unless you pull the driveshaft and turn the yoke as far as possible. There is a slight chance that may do it. Not sure.



Blake

 

[juice]

constant vibration

Do anyone of you guys have a vibration at constant speeds? Mine will start to vibrate at 65 and end at 82 every time.