U-joint squeek

[Blakers]

At 32,000 miles, I'm getting a small squeak from the far back u-joint. It is worse under load or with the brakes slightly applied.



I jacked the rear end up and crawled underneath and turned the tires by hand and could hear it. Then, just to be sure it was not the pinion bearing, I unbolted it and, sure enough, it's the joint. When I wiggle the joint back and forth in my hand, I get a very slight squeak - kinda like a rubber on steel squeak, rather than a metal to metal squeak.



There is no play, no binding, no rust or grease coming out. I didn't have time to pull the caps to grease them, so I just put it back together. I guess it can't hurt anything for now.



Anyone had this happen? Will the warrantee cover u-joints? Is it worth it to have my truck tied up all day for an hour job I can do myself? What is the part number for these joints? What is best? Spicer, NAPA?



Thanks guys,



Blake

 

[whamby]

The U joint is toast. Under 36k miles it will be covered. Between 36k and 70k there is a $100 deductable. I replaced mine with a factory u joint and it was $126 plus tax for the u joint alone. Do a search and you will find some part #'s for other brands.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

YUP - the U-joint is a dead player...

 

[Rosco]

If it were me, I would see if an aftermarket U-joint is available that has a grease fitting and swap that in.

 

[Blakers]

Thanks guys. I'll probably take it in, but I'll have to take my box off first.



I could fix the joint myself pretty quick, but I have to go in for some surgery next week, so I'll be laid up from doing any heavy stuff for awhile.



Blake

 

[jcfarms]

U-joint replacement

I lost the bottom rear u-joint at 35,000 miles. Dealer replaced it under warranty. I just replaced the upper rear drive shaft u-joint at 47,000 miles. It was dry and hard to remove. Also, I found both front u-joints at the front wheels were loose. Dealer replaced under warranty with the $100 deductible. I am wondering how long the u-joints in the front drive shaft will last? I still have the vibration at 65mph after replacing all these joints. My vibration did not start until after 35000 miles.

 

[Mathew Clausen]

Lost the midshaft joint at 24,000 miles. Replaced under warranty because I didn't want to take the time (although wanted to put in a cross with a grease fitting). My new term for these non greasable u-joints/balljoints/etc is "lubed for a short life".



Mathew

 

[DCTECH]

Good luck trying to find one in the aftermarket, we have not found one to fit yet. Had to get from D/C but took a while they are on backorder.

 

[MVVorce]

Mine went bad with less then 30k on the truck. Had to leave the truck for 3 days before u-joint came in. Complained to dealership about the length of time to get the part and as mentioned none were available in the aftermarket.

 

[Beer Man]

mine went at 62k, dealer had mine for 8 days! said they were on backorder and couldn't find aftermarket yet. This was just about 3 weeks ago.

 

[Blakers]

Anyone know any part numbers? Dodge, or otherwise?



I just talked with NAPA and their book does not go this new, but they are calling their supplier. I would just as soon put one in myself as wait for my dealer.



PS- just got off the phone with NAPA and they said they it is their part number 330 and it is the same as 1999. Does anyone have information that this is not true? I will pick it up tonight after work. I still don't trust them cause everytime I have gotten a U-joint from NAPA in the last 30 years it is the wrong one.



Thanks.

 

[Blakers]

Follow up... I called the Dodge dealer and they gave me part number 5102157AB and a price of $101. 10. I'm sure the previously mentioned NAPA part number is not right.



Still would like to find an aftermarket number though.



I guess I'll just take it in and let them fix it under warrantee.



Thanks.

 

[Blakers]

Followup

Well I took her into the dealer for a check on the U-joint. After they looked at it for an hour and a half, they said it was the U-joint! Duh, that's what I told them it was!



Anyway, they are on national backorder. I bet half the 3rd generation trucks out there have joints going out. There must be a metalergical or lack of grease problem with all of them.



Hopefully we'll find some aftermarket joints that will work soon.



Blake

 

[1badplr]

U-Joint

I'm taking mine in tomorrow. For that same reason. I have 25k on the truck. Mine makes a vibration noise when I let off the accelorator or slow down. Does this still sound like u-joint?

 

[Blakers]

Re: U-Joint

Originally posted by kwikspool

Mine makes a vibration noise when I let off the accelorator or slow down. Does this still sound like u-joint?

Yes. Exactly the same symptoms. Mine also squeaks sometimes at very slow speeds - though not always. It has no play and no grease or rust is slinging out of it.



Blake

 

[jcfarms]

Another u-joint replaced.

Replaced number 5 out of 7 on the truck. First one replaced at 35,000 miles. I told the dealer to take front drive shaft out and drive it. 65 mph vibration went away with shaft out. Dealer replaced front drive shaft u-joint at about 48,000 miles. Drives like it did from the beginning.

 

[realsquash]

As a few other people posted this joint is a 1480 series, 3-0188 neapco number. I started to notice this squeak, also, and I just slid under the truck to verify. The joint measures exactly as neapco ( http://www.neapco.com/pdf/2002universaljointcatalog.pdf ) lists as 3-0188. I measured mine with a dial calipers so it's purdy close



This NOT to be confused with the 332X joint, which is a 1480 series front axleshaft joint that would fit your typical oldschool D60. It's got the same cap diameter but it's not as wide as the 0188. EDIT: Opps, I looked at one of those 1480 wheel joints and the only difference is that the snaprings are internal on the wheel joint. The caps protrude out and are not flat on the ends, but you could probably grind them flat and run them. The advantage to that would be availability, and there is a Brute Force model available iirc. Sorry about the confusion.



I didn't measure the front driveshaft yet but it has a double-cardan style CV joint so it's probably a 1310 and you aren't going to replace the joints in there too easilly. The front of the front shaft, I didn't even look at it, but I would suspect 1310, also.



That being said I'll hopefully pick mine up tommorow and replace both ends of the rear driveshaft. I'll take pix and let you all know how it went if you care. A 332X is about $30 so I expect this joint to be similar in price.



Andy

 

[bighammer]

Mine are getting REALLY noisy. I'll be curious to hear how it goes.

 

[daveshoe]

You 3rd gen boys have it made with your quiet trucks. Mine was replaced yesterday, but I never heard it until it sounded like a movie soundtrack of a German military tank approaching. The truck did not feel right ,but it is easy to get used to slop in the drivetrain when it comes on slowly. Mine has the 7/70 warranty. I hope it applies to U-joints. The dealer said that U-joint problems are common on gen 3 trucks.

 

[Blakers]

Originally posted by realsquash

That being said I'll hopefully pick mine up tommorow and replace both ends of the rear driveshaft. I'll take pix and let you all know how it went if you care. A 332X is about $30 so I expect this joint to be similar in price.



Andy

Yes! Please keep us updated. I know I would rather fix it myself than let the dealer mess around and tie my truck up - even if it's covered for free under the warrantee.



Blake