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U-joints

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DTT and 48RE

600 EZ Beta

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C.Hughes

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Why does DC not use grease-able u-joints anymore? i've had to replace two and only have 57,000 miles on the odometer. if i replace one more then all of them on the rear drive shaft will be replaced. If they would put more grease in the caps they might not go dry and burn up so soon. Anybody else having the same problem as me?
 
Most u-joints that aren't greasable... . are not drilled through the cross and have no grease fitting..... There are 2 thoughts on this... .



1 - their more water tight and should run the distance and some people who grease them... . damage the seals with too much grease... .



2 - they cost to much to build... if you look at the truck..... what is there 7 or 8 on a 4x4... ... lets say its an extra 35 cents per joint... x 8 x 1/2 million trucks a years..... thats a bankable savings of 1. 4 million... . and this is my guess... .



40 years ago I was taught to take the drive shaft down... and grease the joints... at that time a joint was still 12 bucks or so... and it was cheeper to grease them than to replace them... .



There was a special grease for them..... long fibered stuff you neve could wash off... but those were the days..... you know... you had to walk up hill in the snow to and from school.....



Today I have a friend with a drive line shop... I give him a call and he sells them to me at his cost + 10%..... and we're both happy...



Jim
 
I'm not sure if you can drill and install your own grease fittings or not. I know on the old style greaseable u-joints the "cross" of the u-joint was hollow which allowed grease go to all four needle bearing locations. I'm not sure if that's the case on sealed joints. Personally, I was always a believer that greaseable joints were better, but I will have to admit the sealed units have never given me a problem. I usually trade trucks at about 80-100 thousand miles and I've not replaced a sealed joint yet.
 
There are also arguments that say that greasable u joints are not as strong as sealed units. Serious drag racers for instance only use sealed units.
 
All the original joints in my truck went well over 200K and looked great when I replaced them. I was replacing the 5 speed with a 6 speed and decided to replace the joints while everything was already out.
 
the originals from the dealer cost $140 i think and where sold out so i had to get the napa specials. which are still causing vibrations.
 
My center U joint (two piece drive shaft) has slung grease on the underside of the truck. I have never seen a sealed U joint do this. With greasable joints I have found this to be common.



I have read other threads about early U joint failure (I've had them myself). I decided to go to the dealer and buy a spare because of the long trip I will be taking. The good news is that all three U joints are the same part.



I figure 40 minutes spent replacing a bad joint at my expense is better than getting towed to an unknown dealer and having them special order the part. It could save me days (literally). Not to mention the hassle getting the trailer off the road etc.
 
C. Hughes said:
Why does DC not use grease-able u-joints anymore? i've had to replace two and only have 57,000 miles on the odometer. if i replace one more then all of them on the rear drive shaft will be replaced. If they would put more grease in the caps they might not go dry and burn up so soon. Anybody else having the same problem as me?



I've been going back through posts and found your question. One of my u-joints began going bad yesterday, or so the dealer said. He recommends replacing all three. I have 43,000 on my '03 4x4. Cost: $85 each + labor.
 
How do you know if a U-joint is going bad????? Symptoms??? My 04. 5 just started vibrating a bit when hooked up to the trailer and making starp uphill turns. Nothing when level or when it is not as steep. Just kind of showed up one day. I don't think it is the rear end etc. Could this be it? I was going to drive it and see if it got worse. Sometimes it will do it for a fraction of a bit when just piddling around town. THanks!
 
I replaced my stock u-joints with greasable ones at 107,000 miles when I got my trans upgraded. I also got the driveshaft balanced, and boy did that make a difference!
 
From what I've heard and read, it's first noticed at slower speeds when the truck is coasting or not under power. Then it gets louder after awhile and will grind a bit in turns. You'll definitely feel it. I'm thinking about putting up a post asking those who have had u-joint problems whether their truck has been run mostly at highway speeds or if it's been used mostly around a farm or ranch and for hauling at slow speeds.
 
Jeremiah, I have a 2-WD, but it does have 2 drive-shaft segments, and yes they balanced both of them off of the truck. Painted 'em too! Looks good! I forgot how much they charged me, but since I had it done when getting my Trans beefed-up, they already had taken them out, so the cost was a little cheaper. In order to balance it they just welded a little fender washer onto each driveshaft--but WHERE to place those fender washers--that is the trick! I had it done while at ATS in Denver, and they said there was a really good driveshaft place nearby and so I just had them send it out and balance it. Truck drives much better above 60 mph now.
 
Ats

rrausch said:
Jeremiah, I have a 2-WD, but it does have 2 drive-shaft segments, and yes they balanced both of them off of the truck. Painted 'em too! Looks good! I forgot how much they charged me, but since I had it done when getting my Trans beefed-up, they already had taken them out, so the cost was a little cheaper. In order to balance it they just welded a little fender washer onto each driveshaft--but WHERE to place those fender washers--that is the trick! I had it done while at ATS in Denver, and they said there was a really good driveshaft place nearby and so I just had them send it out and balance it. Truck drives much better above 60 mph now.



Yeh, ATS nicked me for a bunch a few months ago. I had them put my gauges in and also the Edge EZ. They're good folks and know what they're doing as long as you can afford 'em. I'd rather spend the bucks and go to sleep at night not worrying whether something got done right. Think I'll ask about having my drive shafts balanced too. I'm in Colorado Springs, though, 100 miles to the south.
 
The cap on the end of the joint is hardened steel... won't drill to install a grease fitting besides you'd have to do it to all 4 caps as most non-greasable joints aren't drilled through the cross... .



When the grease goes away the cross ends up getting some pits and damage from the dry needle bearings... as you apply load to the drive shaft... either from acceleration or slowing down this torque will cause the good needles to roll across the bad spots on the cross... and make the noise and vibration... BTW in the almost 40 years I've been doing this... . I don't ever recall seeing a bad cap... . just dry needles and damaged cross's... .



I've found some good grease and my 04 now has 70 K on it... I'll pull the drive shaft down later next month and either grease them or replace them... .



Hope this helps. .



Jim
 
Grease fittings

jelag said:
The cap on the end of the joint is hardened steel... won't drill to install a grease fitting besides you'd have to do it to all 4 caps as most non-greasable joints aren't drilled through the cross... .



When the grease goes away the cross ends up getting some pits and damage from the dry needle bearings... as you apply load to the drive shaft... either from acceleration or slowing down this torque will cause the good needles to roll across the bad spots on the cross... and make the noise and vibration... BTW in the almost 40 years I've been doing this... . I don't ever recall seeing a bad cap... . just dry needles and damaged cross's... .



I've found some good grease and my 04 now has 70 K on it... I'll pull the drive shaft down later next month and either grease them or replace them... .



Hope this helps. .



Jim



Valuable information! Thanks!
 
Comments for what their worth;



- I worked in the auto parts industry for many years and was an amature drag-racer and car collector. Upon installing new 4. 56 gears in my brother's 427 solid lifter drag car, I instantly sheared the factory (greasable) U-joint in half. Replaced it and sheared the new one as well. Went to the store and grabbed a TRW u-joint and it held up until he sold the car. The TRW u-joint was solid (not cross drilled).

- I am sure that the reason that DC is using the sealed u-joints has more to do with the torque of the Cummins than it does with saving a grease fitting.

- Not to be rude, but would you rather replace a worn out u-joint or have your driveshaft laying on the pavement because it couldn't take 500 ft lbs of torque? DC doesn't build the U-joints, thier engineers just specify what they want. Personally, I have allways considered U-joints to be consumeable parts much like brake pads, belts & hoses and clutches. If my U-joints last for 50,000 mi or more, I'll be happy.



Cheers

Dave
 
DPelletier said:
Comments for what their worth;



- I worked in the auto parts industry for many years and was an amature drag-racer and car collector. Upon installing new 4. 56 gears in my brother's 427 solid lifter drag car, I instantly sheared the factory (greasable) U-joint in half. Replaced it and sheared the new one as well. Went to the store and grabbed a TRW u-joint and it held up until he sold the car. The TRW u-joint was solid (not cross drilled).

- I am sure that the reason that DC is using the sealed u-joints has more to do with the torque of the Cummins than it does with saving a grease fitting.

- Not to be rude, but would you rather replace a worn out u-joint or have your driveshaft laying on the pavement because it couldn't take 500 ft lbs of torque? DC doesn't build the U-joints, thier engineers just specify what they want. Personally, I have allways considered U-joints to be consumeable parts much like brake pads, belts & hoses and clutches. If my U-joints last for 50,000 mi or more, I'll be happy.



Cheers

Dave



That's certainly another perspective, and perhaps even the correct one. And it's certainly true that more than one drive shaft hit the pavement when Dodge first began using Cummins engines.



Ideally, the trucks would keep driveshafts AND u-joints turning, particularly when not everyone uses all the torque the engine is capable of producing.



My truck is barely a year old and already I am replacing three u-joints. Counting labor and parts, that's a pretty expensive consumable.
 
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