U-Joints

[rono]

I have searched for info on U-Joints and can't find anything. I know i've read about them before but can't find it now. Anyway, Who makes the best (with grease fittings), and where to find them? Thanks in advance for the info.
Ron

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'01. 5 ETH, DEE, 2500 Silver, QC, 4x4, SB. 3. 54 LS All options except leather. Not bombed Yet. Life Member NRA & NAHC. Ron Osborne

 

[Neal Cassady]

I have always had good luck with the Dana/Spicer u-joints. Seems to be some debate about the strength of the joints with the fittings. Some guys claim they are weaker since material was removed for the zerk. I think I remember reading about a new style of greasable joint that was drilled differently to eliminate the supposed weakeness.

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2001. 5 QC, LB, 4x4, Auto, 3. 54, Everything but Leather, Bright Silver Metallic, ARE K Series, Diprocal EGT, Boost and Autometer transmission Temp(sensor in the line) in an Autometer Dash Pod, ,Westin CPS Platinum Step Bars - Black on Stainless

 

[Archive]

An old dragracer trick... ... it the u-joints have zerk fittings, install the fittings so that they are being compressed under a load instead of being "pulled apart".

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1999 White SLT Dually Auto 4:10 Posi. NOT BOMBED... ... ... ... (very much) 28,000 miles

 

[Rambling]

Dave - there wouldn't happen to be a 3500 model number missing in your signature would there? #ad

 

[Neal Cassady]

Rattlin,

No, I'm a 2500. I thought I had that in my sig. Guess I need to edit the profile.

Dave D

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2001. 5 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Auto, 3. 54, Everything but Leather, Bright Silver Metallic, ARE K Series, Diprocal EGT, Boost and Autometer transmission Temp(sensor in the line) in an Autometer Dash Pod, ,Westin CPS Platinum Step Bars - Black on Stainless

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

When I was having my new clutch installed at Enterprise Engine performance (Dave Mitchell's shop) I checked my u-joints while the shaft was out and the rearmost u-joint was bad. They told me that they'd tried tons of u-joints but didn't find any that would hold up like the stock Dodge ones. I checked out my bad one and found that the center section of the u-joint was completely solid with a strengthening boss on it externally (small holes were in the part that the caps went on to hold grease). We tried to find one but couldn't so I put in a greasable one to get me home (spicer). I then bought one from Dodge ($54 retail btw! OUCH - I paid $34) and replaced the greasable one. The stock Dodge u-joint weighed at least 50% more than the spicer. I've always used greasable u-joints before this primarily because I off-road a lot and like to push out the garbage that got into the joints with grease after an outing. My truck had 65,000 miles on it and had no contamination inside of the original u-joint and it was still full of grease. I think that the reason it failed was because of the severe axle wrap that I USED #ad
to have causing severe angles on that last u-joint. After comparing them I will continue to use the stock u-joints per Enterprise's recommendation - it was that much beefier IMO.



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax3, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

 

[johnrv4]

Thanks Steve, that's what I like about this board- great information for one low price ($35 TDR membership). #ad
#ad


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2001. 5 2500 Quad cab SLT 4x4 ETH/DEE, towing package, snow plow prep, 3:55 anti-spin, and other goodies. Flame Red

 

[C Schomer]

In the poor 50's my dad used to drill the 4 cups and put in zerks. Each cup was greaseable and no drilled cross! Make sure the zerk has a good check ball or the grease will be gone in a hurry. Craig

 

[rono]

Thanks for the reply guys. I never thought about the weakness caused by the grease passage holes, but it makes sense. I also never thought about the drilling the caps for zerts. I like that idea as just the right amount of grease could be put to each bearing. I guess there is enough room inside the cap for the zert to not bottom out? Thanks again, and this a great place to share and get information.
ron

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'01. 5 ETH, DEE, 2500 Silver, QC, 4x4, SB. 3. 54 LS All options except leather. Not bombed Yet. Life Member NRA & NAHC. Ron Osborne

 

[pcorssmit]

Another option that works well when putting zerks in all the caps on a non drilled joint is to use the needle type grease fittings, like the ones found on cv joints. They are a lot more compact than regular zerks.

Pete

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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits

 

[WileyCoyote]

FYI--

Our class 8 18 wheelers big trucks have always had greaseable u joints on all the driveshafts.

The engine torque runs from 1200 ft lbs at the flywheel to over 2000 for the newest motors. Using first gear in double low reduction on the transmission and a really big load, it is obvious that strength is not an issue.

The real issue however, is the ability of the driveline components to survive hour after hour of this kind of energy being dumped into the driveline. Big trucks and other very large prime movers have to be engineered for all duty situations. Generally speaking, the thermal overloads from continuous use are the weak link in the drivetrain chain, not the mechanical design.

Obviously, installing grease zerks on u joints that will survive is not new technology.

Hauling overgross loads for too long a time is a much bigger problem.

Harry