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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) U joints

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) grid heater sticking

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Ok, i found out that one of the + thingamajiggies on the driveshaft has developed a little play. . it is stock and hasn't ben replaced yet after 100k miles.



It is the one that goes from the trany onto the drive shaft the first + thingamajiggy. it is held in by the clips and what pressed in.



Now, is there a different one you would suggest or just go with another factory replacement?



-E
 
thingamajiggy

That little + thingamajiggy is called a Cross and it is part of the Universal. The cross is composed of a little thingamajiggy that is shaped like a little plus sign and then has four caps on it that are filled with needle bearings. There are retention clips on the outside that keep that caps from sliding off. After 100K miles the caps will be frozen on the ends very much. Spray them up with your favorite rust eater and then take the clips off and press out the caps to one side and pull off one cap and then press it back the other way to pull off the other cap. Repeat with the other axis and take both of them off. Be carefull not to break off the ears that hold the Caps by applying to much pressure while the rust is holding the caps. Unless you are going to be pulling a sled and have a BUNCH more horsepower you should be fine with a stock Cross..... you do NOT have to get one from your Stea..... dealer. You can take your old cross to any place that sells drivetrain parts (NAPA or such) and get a new one. Hope this helps.
 
Thank you very much, that helps. . just for the hell of it i went and sprayed some pb blaster on it so that it starts working its magic for tomorow mornings removal. how hard are they to remove and put back in?



i should replace both while i'm at it shouldn't i?



Also could something like that cause a horible vibration that would spread thruout the whole truck?



-E
 
Yes that PB Blaster was a good idea and it is good stuff!! Removal is much harder than putting it back togeather... . make sure you take some emery cloth (really fine sand paper) and clean up the inside of the ears were the caps go so you can slide them in easily with out beating them stupid. the thing I would do would be to take the whole drive shaft out ( remove the 8 bolts in the back yoke (thing with ears) and remove the driveshaft there and then remove the pillow block at the back of the cab (thing hanging down with the driveshaft going through it... . Quad Cab models only) and pull the splined shaft out of the back of the transfer case. Then you can wrestle the whole assmbly to your favorite bench press and press the cross out of the yoke. Have fun and be patient... stuff will be very rusty if you have salt on your roads and if you rush stuff it will break instead of slide :( Good luck!



ps this is something that would make the truck vibrate very badly... and if was left alone long enought would eat up more things in your drive train (other crosses and who knows what else)
 
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A cutting torch makes quick work of removal. Burn the cross off then press the caps inward. As for ujoints, factory joints are spicer. Spicer is the undisputed king of standard ujoints. There are lots of driveline shops around that sell spicer including some napa stores. They are worth it.
 
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