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Unable to pass smog test !

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2015 ram 3500 6.7L wont charge, goes into batter saver mode

Help!!!! 2008 Ram 3500 6 Speed DOA

pfmoale

TDR MEMBER
Hello,
Can anyone tell me why this is happening ?
A few months ago, the tab inside the glove box broke. That made the light bulb stay on. I keep a cover over it, so did not think anything was wrong, until I went out to try to start it, and couldn't.
Put a battery charger on them, and charged overnight. Next morning, started right up, and since then have NO problems, or issues with it...........until smog test time !
Smog technician says "Fuel system & Comprehensive Component" failed, and did NOT register as "Passed".
I have run the truck over 500 miles after the dead battery, without any starting, or other problems.
Additionally, there are NO DTC's that come up.
My mechanic recommended that I remove both battery cables, touch the cables together, then replace, in which I did. Only drove about 5 miles when I took it over to the smog tech, to have him check with his super duper Snap On tester.
I have paid the "Legalized extortion", aka license fee already, but will NOT pass the smog test.
Mechanic says he may have to pay for, and have a downloaded copy for re-programing what ever the hell is wrong.
It has always passed the (dreaded) smog test before, without any problems.
Can anyone give me ideas on something that has worked in the past for someone else ?
As you can probably guess, I am located in the Bay Area within "The Peoples Republic of California" !
Thanks very much.
Peter
2001, 2500 Ram, Auto Trans, 4X4, with a Banks Power Pack kit installed. Only has 82,000 miles.
-- email address removed --
707-337-4039
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Not sure about an 01, but you might have a dealer see if there is a flash available. I know there have Been several flashes over the years that were for various monitors not running.
When you disconnected the batteries again you started the monitors over.
 
If the computer is saying the readiness monitors arent complete then it may be because there's something wrong with the batteries or the charging system. Automotive batteries sulfate when they loose a charge. Sulfation destroys the cells. Bad cells equal a battery that will be a drag on the charging system. I'd check the batteries by testing them separate of each other and the truck. If ones bad then it will cause phantom electrical anomalies. If the alternator is generating excessive AC voltage because of a faulty battery system then that will cause phantom electrical anomalies. A reflash would be last resort since you never know what that reflash contains... There's people who report their truck runs different after a reflash.
You can get OBD code readers that can tell if the monitors are complete. You may want to pick one up.
 
KATOOM, Thanks so much for your insight. Have to tell you, I have NOT checked the status of both batteries. They have been changed, once or twice, since new, but I purchase either Interstate, or am hearing Napa parts sells batteries made by the Johnson Control Company., which I am told are excellent too. Talked to the service manager at the Dodge Chrysler dealership, whee I purchased the truck. He said when he was a mechanic he dreaded getting in a 5.9 with completely dead batteries. He mentioned that it may have to be driven up to 1,200 miles for it to finally decide if it will clear itself. Did take it to an independent shop, where the fellow was pretty well versed in the computer re-flashing thing. He did some checking BEFORE doing anything, and told me, "If" something went wrong, the the truck would become un-driveable !
Smog guy has been really helpful. I go in every once in a while, and he gets out his Snap On scanner, to read if Comprehensive has been "Completed".
Just looked at the date and mileage the last set of batteries were installed. June of 2011 @ 63,000 miles. 8 years old, and have only 20,000 miles on them.
I think I will take it to my shop I go to and have him do a load test on them, to actually see how the condition is. I have NOT been having any problems with the engine having a hard time to start.
I would like to give those "Electronic Wizards" at Dodge / Chrysler a piece of my mind. Putting unnecessary miles on it, and I certainly don't get fuel with my good looks, especially out here in "The Peoples Republic of California" !
 
An average of 2500 miles a year over the past 8 years? I do 2500 miles in less than a month. For ANY complex machine like your truck, sitting that much is worse for it than using it. I would suggest 3-4 times that amount of use a year, minimum.
 
Scott, Thanks for your recommendation. I don't know what state you live in, but "Commiefornia" has, as well as a couple of other states, the WORST fuel prices in the country. You are certainly correct, I should take it out"Every once in a while", just to keep things lubed and tuned. Now, I am in a bit of a "Sticky situation". My daily driver is a VW Golf, with, of course the 1.9L TDI engine. 45 to 50 MPG make one very spoiled !
 
Scott, Thanks for your recommendation. I don't know what state you live in, but "Commiefornia" has, as well as a couple of other states, the WORST fuel prices in the country. You are certainly correct, I should take it out"Every once in a while", just to keep things lubed and tuned. Now, I am in a bit of a "Sticky situation". My daily driver is a VW Golf, with, of course the 1.9L TDI engine. 45 to 50 MPG make one very spoiled !

I dont drive my truck that often either. The cost of fuel and tires and oil, keeps me from tooling around in my truck unless I need it. So it sits in the garage a lot. And in saying that, its not the total miles driven in a year but rather the time between those miles driven. Meaning, you could drive your truck for two 5000 mile trips a year...but let it sit for 10 months between those trips and it would be far worse on it than driving it around for 50 miles every couple weeks.

As for the batteries, yeah 8 years is a long time for batteries. Quality isnt so much the issue either as top brand batteries can be bad right off the shelf. I have Interstate batteries I get from Costco because they're priced great.

Oh and NEVER replace one battery at a time in a dual battery system. A bad/weak battery will always pull the good battery down, not the other way around. And they must be the same size and age too otherwise its hard on the charging system and will cause the batteries to not last as long.
 
Yes, I ALWAYS change both of them, when I do. Currently, I am on pins and needles, as to getting that comprehensive module to switch over to "Completed". Between the smog people, AND DMV, I now have to the end of November to get it completed.......................then what ???
 
If you replace the batteries don't disconnect them both at the same time or you will have to start over. The chances of trying to get the monitors to run by just driving more are slim. Did your dealer verify there was no flash?
 
KATOOM, Did get an extension at DMV, until end of November. I couldn't believe it, the communistic state of "Tax-a-fornia" said no additional charges, because I have already paid for the year.
sag2, Going to shop Monday morning to have batteries first checked, then possibly changed, both of them , if needed. Will be right there with the mechanic and specifically tell him, do NOT pull both cables off at one time ! Went to an independent shop, and told him my problem. He verified FIRST "If" it could be done. He told me there "Was a chance" that "If" something went wrong, the truck could become um-operable. Called dealer where I bought it, and he said might have to drive up to 1,200 miles to clear. Great, putting on extra miles, using more fuel, and still not knowing when, or if it will clear itself.
Going up to Lake Tahoe on Monday mid day, so would like to have new batteries installed, then drive it up and back, then re-check to see if it cleared.
Meanwhile, the saga continues !
(Yet another reason to leave, "The Peoples Republic of Commiefornia" !!!)
Thanks to you all for your continued help with MY problem.
Peter
 
There is a certain procedure you can do while driving to force the monitors to set (as long as there are no problems detected). I cant remember what this process is but I'm sure you can look it up on the internet. I was told how to do it a year or so ago by a smog shop who was helping me with this same situation you're having.
 
I don't care for Interstate batteries. Had to warranty just about all them. The 60 month was the worst.
36 month one seem to last. Go figure, the cheap one last longer.
 
I don't care for Interstate batteries. Had to warranty just about all them. The 60 month was the worst.
36 month one seem to last. Go figure, the cheap one last longer.

The reason why their less expensive shorter warranty battery lasted longer was because it contained fewer lead grids. The longer the warranty the more packed tight they are with cells which can 1) create more heat and 2) deteriorate more material as they phosphate over time. The material which then falls to the bottom of the battery housing can build up and cause some of the cells to touch, which then shorts out that circuit. If enough cells short out then the battery is toast.
So less lead cells can run cooler and last longer of their market service life.
Doesnt mean I choose the shorter warranty battery either but just pointing that out...
 
At Costco a guy was returning a couple of Interstate's for exchange.
His F-250 7.3 ate 'em up every two years. The guy was a contractor with lots of stop and go he said.
Costco honored the warranty and laid a couple more on him.
The shop I use installs them all the time with no particular issues.
 
Hello All, Last Friday morning, I had my shop install 2 fresh Napa Auto Parts heavy / commercial batteries. Replaces 1 at a time.
After installing drove round trip to South Lake Tahoe and a little running around while there.
This Monday I go back to the smog guy and he will check with his super scanner, to see if that "Comprehensive" module is cleared.
I am holding my breath !
I will let you know the outcome.
Peter
 
pfmoale, since you're a member of the 2nd gen club you might consider investing in OBD scan tool. I have several types but my favorite is the Blue Driver for casual use and monitoring what's happening. One of the neat features is smog check readiness and gives you a read out on any pending codes and monitor status. Been down this road many times with this truck...I feel your pain and good luck.
gregg
 
BoeingDiesel, Thanks for your suggestion. Always good to hear from someone who has had prior experience with a particular unit. Could you please provide a link to the unit you have ? Thanks.
 
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