2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Undercarriage care

[jchapin]

Hi Folks,

Returning member here, got to start all over with postings...



Here in the NorthEast, maintaining a clean undercarriage has been somewhat difficult. Admittedly, I haven't been consistent at keeping it clean so now I'm faced with a hearty detail job combined with some rust attention (it's not that bad, but I want it in top shape again).



I've cruised the postings on engine/underbody cleaning and rustproofing, here's what I've found:

[Assuming frequent washings with soap & water]



- Generally, be suspicious of undercarriage rustproofer/sound-deadener shops since these agents crack and sometimes rust between metal & agent(not to give it a bad rap, there are plenty out there with great experience). Oil-based agent shops seem pretty good [such as Krown but they're restricted to Canada, plus it needs to be reapplied annually [not a bad thing in itself, just more difficult for us who live in US].



- Many have great results by cleaning undercarriage, drying, then applying hydraulic fluid or AT fluid (somewhat illegal) a couple times throughout Winter and then washing off late Spring.



- Those who have cleaned undercarriage frequently from day 1 seem to have no problems (not sure how many of them are from Northern, or more importantly, salt-ridden (ocean, de-icing) States though)



So first order is to clean the heck out it with cleaning agent and elbow grease.

BTW, [off subject]: although it may be the ticket for undercarriage, stay clear of Castrol Super Clean Degreaser. I just cleaned my Ducati (I love the Cummins "chuckle"; ever heard the throaty roar of a Ducati V-Twin?) with the stuff and boy, what a mistake. Wayyyy tooooo harsh!



Then, [after brushing] apply something to check current rust activity, and finally apply some anti-rust agent.



Although I like the hydraulic fluid treatment, I was wondering if anybody had experience with Por-15 for undercoating?



After an exhaustive search on the web, I couldn't find any bad remarks about it, and plenty of positive statements! I'm seriously thinking of going that route, but would appreciate some feedback from members.



Thanks in advance, It's good to be back here.

-Jack

 

[1tuffram]

Rust on drive shafts

I know this is going to sound really anal, but anyone know of a good product or way to keep rust off the drive shafts??? I have been using metal polish on my 2002 truck to remove and try to keep the surface rust off but it only lasts a few weeks before the rust starts forming again. I have considered appling wax to the shafts to see if it keeps the rust off longer.



I was looking thru an Eastwood catalog and found some stuff called OxiSolve and they claim you spray or brush this liquid stuff on and it dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Anyone think this stuff will work for keeping the rust off the drive shafts and other undercarriage components??



Yep I know it this sounds ridiculous, but I can't stand the site of the rusted drive shaft when looking at the truck. Besides, I feel better after my shaft is polished

 

[Pit Bull]

I just clean mine every 6 months and then spray it with black enamel. No rust on my baby

 

[jchapin]

Gotta agree with ya on that 1tuffram, a polished shaft is a happy shaft



Check out the link to por-15 in my first post, they have exactly what your looking for, plus different colors/shades you can apply later for desired effect.



As I mentioned, I've really searched web hard and found nothing but good things about Por-15 from detail & restore professionals.

I'm still looking for negative opinions but haven't found any.



Geez, now I'm turning this into a Por-15 marketing thread and I haven't even touched or seen the stuff...

 

[roycrown]

POR i5 is great, I use it all the time. For doing the undercarriage though be prepared for a messy, messy job. For any rusted or bare metal areas you will have to use their (POR 15) metal etch to make it stick, plus any painted areas will have to be scuffed up with sandpaper or scotchbrite or it will eventually peel off. The stuff is runny, runny, runny when trying to paint it from underneath. If (when) you get it on your skin or hair it will not come off, it will have to wear off (a few weeks). Bottom line is if you prepare the surface well, and can put up with the hassles of applying it upside down, it works very well. My daily driver/beater '81 Diplomat with 330,000 miles on it would have rusted away years ago without POR 15.

 

[jchapin]

After re-reading my post and responses, this topic is probably better suited in the product forum as it focused on Por-15 (my fault, I didn't leave much flexibility from 1st post ). I had originally hoped to hear other recommendations as well, but worded it wrong from the start. It's too late now to edit it.

Cheers,

-Jack

 

[TPhillips]

I brushed 2 coats of POR-15 Semi-Gloss Black on everything that could possibly be painted (except transmission,transfer case, and oil pan) on the underside of my truck when it had less than 30 miles on it. I also brushed 2 coats of POR-15's "Black Velvet" high temp paint on the exhaust system from stem to stern. This stuff is real tough when fully cured. You have 4-5 hours where acetone will take it off, after that, forget about it. It does not hold dirt and grime like undercoating and you can paint your drive shaft(s) without concern.



I used a product called "Nooxid A Special" www.sanchem.com on all nuts, bolts, cables, electrical connections, etc. I put it on my exhaust clamps as an extreme test, and its still there after 6 months.



The truck only has 3000 miles on it and no winters yet, but after quite a bit of research, I can say that I gave undercarriage corrosion control my best shot.



Todd

 

[EScott]

I stalk the local hardware store waiting for the enivitable once a year sale on rattle cans. I buy a case of the cheapest black spray paint I can get my hands on. Degrease (Gyrex 440), and pressure wash one day. Paint everything under the truck with previously mentioned rattle cans.



I do this once or twice a year and it keeps the undercarriage looking MUCH MUCH better than new.



Erin

 

[abranz]

rust proofing

Well guys, I had the entire undercarrage sprayed with bedliner material "turboliner" polyurea material. Also had the lower brake below the side molding and bed lined. Looks great and is tough as nails. Sounds extreme but I love my truck it's the only material I've found resistant to both sodium and mag-cloride which is the crap they use to deice roads in Idaho.

Tony in Idaho

 

[mikeg135]

I occassionally launch my boat the old fashion way in brackish water. Although I am careful trying to only get the bottom of the tires wet, I still worry about salt water corrosion.



What I do is pull out the pressure washer. I have a turn down tip on the end of the spray gun which when held upside down it blows water upward. It works great cleaning the undercarriage and it is easy on your back and you stay relatively clean. I do use a truck wash while doing this then followed up with a high pressure tip.

 

[Pit Bull]

Re: rust proofing

Originally posted by abranz

Well guys, I had the entire undercarrage sprayed with bedliner material "turboliner" polyurea material. Also had the lower brake below the side molding and bed lined. Looks great and is tough as nails.

Tony in Idaho

Tony, what did that cost? Do you have any pictures you could post?

Thanks

 

[redramnc]

Oxisolve is intended as a coating to keep metal from flash-rusting until a topcoat can be applied. It is not durable in and of itself.



POR-15 is an excellent undercoater but it is best sprayed on a frame prior to dropping the body on (I have used it in restorations for years). Painting POR-15 with a brush on an assembled frame would be asking for it to get in places you may not want it (and permanently sticking them together). PM Industries also makes a UV-stabilized paint that is the equivalent of POR-15. Certain formulations of POR-15 are UV-sensitive so you have to make sure what you are applying is OK for where you are applying it (under the chassis is not a problem because UVs aren't usually a problem under there).



Like said above, don't get POR-15 on anything you don't want to have to have it wear off of. It is highly recommended to use personal protective equipment when handling it because it is a polyisocyanate and can be absorbed through the skin as well as through the airways. Gloves and a good NIOSH approved particulate/activated charcoal respirator are necessary unless you want to gamble with your health.



As far as durability - paint it once and forget about it. Have fun.

 

[tarussell]

This post is great !!!!!

I have been looking for POR-15 for a while but did not know the correct name, until now. I just ordered a bunch of thier products (ex. high temp coatings , POR-15 Black , Marine-Clean, and more ). These are the products that I have been looking for to prevent any future rust and have heard nothing but GOOD comments. Thanks for posting, Thomas.

 

[LarryG]

I wire brushed mine and applied Zero Rust from a rattle can. (www.autobody.com)

 

[Pit Bull]

Must not have the problems in SW Missouri that some of the other parts of the country have. I just did my 6 month underside maintance and it was rust free. I repaint it anyway just because it looks good.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

JEEZE - you guys sure get worked up over a situation DC has ALREADY provided a near-solution to...



Merely finish what DC started with that crankcase blowby catcher bottle - simply add another couple of feet to the down tube to the bottom of the engine, leave the bottle off, then let airfow and blow-by keep yer undercarriage all lubed and rust-free at the SAME TIME... .



Thank you - thank you, I appreciate all the applause...

 

[jwalton]

I just used the por-15 on the frame last night and do i ever look like a leopard. I tried several chemicals to get it off today and no luck. It really is tough stuff. I think it will be worth the few days of looking like a dalmatian. I hope.

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by jwalton

I just used the por-15 on the frame last night and do i ever look like a leopard. I tried several chemicals to get it off today and no luck. It really is tough stuff. I think it will be worth the few days of looking like a dalmatian. I hope.

Your a dedicated car guy

 

[cArNiVaLwOrKeR]

LarryG

I wire brushed mine and applied Zero Rust from a rattle can. (Auto Insurance Cheap Auto Insurance Auto body repair Auto Body Shop Car painting at AutoBody.com)

About how much time does it take to wire brush and paint?

I would like to do mine here very soon, in the summer time...



Joe

 

[FLynes]

I just used the por-15 on the frame last night and do i ever look like a leopard. I tried several chemicals to get it off today and no luck. It really is tough stuff. I think it will be worth the few days of looking like a dalmatian. I hope.

Try several weeks... :-laf:-laf:-laf