So after some tinkering last night and today, I have a few more data points:
1) I took JD's advice and went back to the WG before looking more at the fuel. Solenoid still at 11 Ohms, wastegate pops open at about 40 PSI. Looking back, I don't think it works "better" now, I had really just never "tested" it. I've been babying the truck since this popped up in October 2014, no towing, no stomping on it on on-ramps, no really "working" the truck. Again, I don't have any log data from pre-October 2014, so it was all qualitative assessment on my part. But in investigating the WG, getting it out on the freeway and trying to generate stock boost, I can easily make 30-31 PSI. Worked the same last night. There's a pretty good turbo shop here in Plattsmouth that I called two months ago, they recommended the stuff you guys all recommended out of the Holset manual. Looking at my previous posts, I see I didn't mention that WG was in the closed position the whole time when I was looking at it (when I pulled the downpipe to fix the exhaust leak, I chalked the exterior lever) and that was probably important info I should have included. You can look at the logs, I think I'm generating about the right boost; I get no smoke of any kind, except a nice quick black cloud if I have to stand on it to get around someone driving like an idiot, and no codes of any kind from the ECM. The "non-clearing" code mentioned above was my fault - I had the engine on and that won't clear with the truck running. Probably should have posted that too.

I appreciate all the help with the WG, but after making some mistakes, I'm pretty confident it's working.
2) Back to the fuel suspect: Just a general note from an old idiot (me): If you're going to go the shade tree mechanic path and not use "special tool 9013" to test the PRV, remember that the banjo at the PRV side of the fuel line is part of the full drain circuit, not just the PRV to the CP3. So unless your engine compartment and garage floor need a diesel bath, you need some way to catch the fuel coming from the CP3 to the PRV.
3) So after that mess was cleaned up (garage will smell like diesel for a couple more weeks), I did get a usable test on the PRV today. After unhooking the FCA, drying out the inside of the PRV, and zip-tying bags on to
BOTH the PRV and the banjo, there was quite a bit of fuel (maybe 2 oz) in the PRV bag after 30 seconds of idle-to-1000 RPM. Most of that shot out when the truck was started, but there was still a dribble at 1,000 RPM. So I'm pretty sure the PRV weak, and most likely kaput.
I'm not going to go the route of capping it off. I'd like to have the protection if I ever get this issue fixed and start towing with this truck again.
So to avoid another parts debacle... Aside from $155, what's the difference between Geno's $280 Cummins PRV and Bosch $125 PRV? And what's the difference between either of those and a $28 ATS PRV? I'm sure the $28 part isn't as "good" as the $280 part, but if the only purpose of the part is to not exceed the max Bosch rail pressure, then I'd rather change out the $28 part as part of routine maintenance every 5 years instead of waiting for the $280 part fail every 10 years. And to Cerb's point, if the $280 Cummins PRV is the way to go, then it's probably smarter to replace the whole rail for $395. That's an easy fix.