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Unleash your CPC with a boost elbow!!

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THE ELBOW MOD ROCKS!!!!
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If you have a CPC you have got to put one of these on!
My 99 is stock but for the VA CPC. I have really enjoyed the new power but knew it was being held back by the MAP sensor.

Since my numerous trips to CA help find a boost elbow into my hands, I decided to put it in.

I did it in 5 minutes..... way simple install and it still looks stock with the DC clamp still in place.

Just took a spin around the lake (god this mud has got to go) and guess what, . .

the power spike and then power drop off above 2grand is gone!

I don't know if I am throwing codes since there is no map sensor modification in my truck, only time will tell on that one.

No check engine light, so that is good.

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

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Green Monster's cyber garage (and TDR multimedia sandbox)

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What about splicing an adjustable valve in the hose that connects the elbow to the wastegate actuator? Would this work or am I not understanding what the elbow does?

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1998. 5 2500 QC 4x4, 24v, 275HP injectors, auto, 3. 55, leather, 295/75R16 BFG AT, Abbott ERA, VA CPC, TransGo shift kit
1998 Corvette Coupe, 6-spd, Pewter
 
It would be interesting to see where your boost is running now. If you are to high I believe you will see the check engine light come on. All you need now is a set of hot injectors David #ad
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Ok, Im interested! Where does one aquire one of these
magical gizmos?!? I thought they came w/ some injector
sets, but I hadn't seen them sold seperately.

Thx --Bruce

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1999 QC2500 4x4 Auto 3. 54LSD Most opts except Leather, VA CPC,
Warn winch, nerf bars, grill guard, front rcvr hitch, aircraft landing lights, wheel flares
 
Working on the sourcing info.

HVAC, I'm gona get the rig dyno'd. Anything you can suggest to help measure things especially on the 5 speed?

I don't have many choices of dyno styles, only one spot in the general area to do it.
 
I am also wondering about connecting a diode between the wires on the MAP sensor to limit the signal to the computer. Any thoughts on this mod? This would be very cheap and easy to do. This should accomplish the same thing as the boost module and adding an adjustable valve in the hose from the elbow to the wastegate actuator. Maybe $10 to complete??

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1998. 5 2500 QC 4x4, 24v, 275HP injectors, auto, 3. 55, leather, 295/75R16 BFG AT, Abbott ERA, VA CPC, TransGo shift kit
1998 Corvette Coupe, 6-spd, Pewter
 
Carl,
I am not a good source of technical data on why things work they way they do on our Rams.

I spend a ton of time reading the posts of others for that.

I don't have any problems giving my . 02 on this stuff, just take it with a grain of salt.

I've gone down the resistor or clamping diode path before. Bmann and others suggested that it just does not work despite sounding like a good idea.

I know that the computers must see a voltage change when the engine starts or the circuit gets faulted in the computer. This rules out removing it altogether and replacing it with a fixed resistor.

If you want to look into the map sensor and how it works, do a search on the web. I found a ton of stuff for other vehicles that is good enough to give you the idea.

The boost elbow seems to act to restrict the airflow by almost plugging the elbow but also giving it a bleed hole.

HVAC knows more about this I suspect.

We need CMECHANIC and a Dodge diesel mechanic to give us a few words of advice about properly cheating the system without storing codes in the ECM police blotter...

Good luck. .

Just did another lap around the pond, I'll never get any work done today!! YEE HAA
 
Big Carl, I appreciate your interest in saving money, but just about any valve you might install in the hose to the wastegate actuator will exceed the cost of the brass elbow. Also it will not decrease pressure to the actuator as quickly as the elbow with the bleed hole. This means it will hold the wastegate open when you would prefer it be closed to take advantate of the boost upon acceleration.

I will ask my horsepower guru if I can purchase a couple handfuls of the elbows to hook you BB members up. I don't think he is interested in selling diesel hor doeurves.
 
I have a solution to the overboost/derate problem. I have not had time to develop it on my own, so I'm giving the idea away here, in hopes that someone will take it on an run with it.

All you really need is a regulator - a device that spills pressure at a specific point. CARR sells several such devices - some of them quite cheap - that are adjustable within the range needed. You merely need to put an orofice in the pressure supply to the sensor, and then the bleed AFTER the orofice. The orofice will create only the slightest delay (not significant) in reading real boost, but when a preset pressure is reached (max boost - . 5psi ???), the regulator dumps the air behind the orofice, limiting the pressure that the sensor "sees", because of the flow limitation of the orofice itself.

I see no downside to this arrangement, and the cost of the fittings / regulator would be well under the $50 range, even using the most precise/expensive pressure bleed that CARR sells. It would be a simple matter of unscrewing the sensor, adding the fittings to it, and screwing it back in. Maybe a 10 minute job, and all your "overboost" worries are behind you.

Any takers? It WILL work.


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David you are talking about the little brass 1/8 male pipe x 1/4 barb fitting with a restrictor and a bleed hole correct? #ad


HVAC gave me one a couple of weeks ago and I put it on the check engine light did not come on right away Appear #ad
, and I did not notice a difference in power " I do have a VA CPC ".
I think it was the next day when the check engine light came on. I was not even driving hard, it came on after a start when the engine was still at idle. Then the light went out but came back on. I think the light came on three times so I figured the only thing I have changed is this brass fitting so I took it off and the light has stayed off, maybe the bulb is burned out
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. Plus I have a leaking left raer axel seal and did not want it or the VA on when I bring it in for warrenty repair.


[This message has been edited by CJ (edited 03-30-2000). ]
 
Power Wagon--
Please excuse my ignorance, but who/what is CARR? I am interested in your idea, and was actually wondering why the boost limit had to be dealt with electronically myself. I just assumed that a regulator would not react quickly enough, but since I am not the only one that is courious about this, I may just go and find out... . #ad


Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT 2wd 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD SB K&N Filter
Aspiring B. O. M. B Member
 
Heh... bad habit. The name is really McMaster-Carr Supply.

Thier URL (online ordering) is www.mcmaster-carr.com

I bought a small brass one, but found that the regulating action was... somewhat erratic. The regulator "buzzed", resulting in spiky pressure readings behind it. It is adjustable, and will regulate from 2 or 3 psi to 21 psi. They have more precise ones made of an engineering plastic that should not have the same problem, as they are diaphragm controlled.

The issue I see here, is that you use a small enough orifice, so that the flow through it does not overwhelm the regulator and result in the MAP sensor seeing overboost anyway.

The regulator will go from no flow to much flow in a small fraction of one PSI. At least the one I have did. The trick, however, is getting fittings that will actually FIT in the crazy little hole that the sensor fits in under the intake manifold area of the head.
 
CJ,
You are correct, same device.
I have pushed it pretty hard the past two days and not seen the check engine light yet.

Do you have a stock exhaust or any other power enhancement except the VA?

Hmmm, I'm happy but wondering what the police blotter in my ECM is recording these days... .
 
I have two new observations from today's trip.
First I love to confuse the mileage gauge and today was no different. On my way to the bone cracker I noticed the gauge ran up to 25MPG. Pretty cool, wish it was real.

Second, I am hearing a real high pitched noise since adding the elbow. Could that be the small hole on the side making all the noise?
 
Do you think you may have blown the hose off the elbow David. I like to install a new hose clamp rather than reuse the oem crimper thing.

Also, a guy is making a device to hold the MAP signal at 2v dc(max allowed before turning the light on) and he is selling it for 10 bucks. I think you might see a touch of smoke prior to developing any boost with this setup. This device does not modulate with boost, it is fixed.
 
I suspect that holding MAP at 2v will throw a code unless it is really clipping the signal at a max of 2v.

The ECM must see a MAP value toggle when the engine starts or the sensor is faulted (so I am told)

will check the hose, good idea
 
David, I plan to purchase the 10 buck device that holds the MAP sensor signal at 2v, we may see if it causes any out of spec warnings. I have a different ecm on my truck now and the "Warning Will Robinson, Warning" light is illuminated perpetually now. Lawrence mentioned he could fix this hardware recognizing hardware problem #ad
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By the way, anyone who would like to try the wastegate elbow on their truck, check out my post on the related topic "Wastegate elbow/Boost"

[This message has been edited by HVAC (edited 03-30-2000). ]
 
cj , have you tired the ... cycle the key to the on and off position 3 times , leaving it on the third time , this used to flash the check engine light if any codes are stored , the last flash is 5 and 5 , end of codes , if you just get 5 and 5 then there are no codes stored ... i will try it on mine when i go out to get some dinner ... i'm working tonite ...
 
Update on my elbow experience.
I feel a slight dropoff in power around 3Grand but still no chk engine light.

Still a nice improvement over the 2K threshold I was seeing before the elbow.
 
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