Update: 1985W350 with 17" wheels and 2.5" Skyjacker springs!

[HSchroen]

Ok, I'm moving along with my '85 W350 Cummins conversion... . slow but sure! Finally got some wheels from 4wheelparts.com. They had this particular style Pro-Comp on sale, buy three get the fouth free so I figured why not. Also went with the Pro-Comp All-Terrain tires 33x12. 5x17.

Then went and installed the Skyjacker 2. 5" front springs to try and get it level... if anything now the front is a hair higher than the rear.



Anyway, I'd like to ask those who have installed the Skyjacker 2. 5" springs... did you also replace the pitman arm? Two things I noticed right off the bat... the steering wheel is cocked to the left, and more unnerving, there seems to be a little "dead" spot in the steering. Its more noticeable at slower speeds, when you are just starting to turn. Its like you can feel the drag on the steering wheel like you are turning the wheels, but the truck is not turning with you. I did not have this sensation before the lift. Would the Skyjacker pitman arm remedy this? Interestingly, the Skyjacker Tech line said I did not need one, but there website does list the part (DA20) for "2-4 inch" lift kits.



One last thing, do I need to get my truck aligned now?



Coming soon: new paint!

 

[TKingsbury]

My truck has a 3" riser block under the steering arm on the axle. I don't have the Skyjackers in just yet, but similar height lift springs. Not 100% sure if I'm gonna have to modify it when I get the Skyjackers in. I would do something with it if I were you. With your wheel cocked, your box is no longer "on center" so it will feel way different than it did.

Travis. .

 

[HRDROKN]

Truck is looking good!!!



There is an adjustable rod from your steering box down to your steering arm... adjust this to center your wheel. Your dead spot may just be the way the new larger tires feel on the road. Anytime I get new tires I have the frontend aligned for GP.

 

[EarlKann]

Truck is looking good!!!



There is an adjustable rod from your steering box down to your steering arm... adjust this to center your wheel. Your dead spot may just be the way the new larger tires feel on the road. Anytime I get new tires I have the frontend aligned for GP.

That's a SkyJacker adjustable draglink. IIRC the factory one is not adjustable. The SkyJacker is available in the aftermarked for around $200 I used to have an extra one but I haven't seen it in a while, I might have sold it already.

 

[ARhine]

The factory one is not adjustable Very dumb production cost cutting on Dodges part I think.



Skyjacker makes the only aftermarket adjustable one for this truck that I know of. If you have enough lift to clear, going to crossover steering is a much better solution though.

 

[HSchroen]

So the Pitman arm is not necessary? My understanding was the adjustable drag link was really for trucks with alot of lift, say 4" or more.

 

[bgilbert]

Looking good. I forgot, do you have the Cummins in it already? Engine pics???

 

[CLiberty]

Nice lookin ride! I got those same wheels from 4wheel parts buy3 get 1 free, they`re still sitting 3 feet away from me in my puter room... waiting for tires. It`s real nice to get an idea of how theyr gonna look, thanks!

 

[ARhine]

Did the $144 each price (for 16x8s anyway) include nuts and caps? Otherwise I can get some eagle alloys cheaper locally.



Looks good BTW.

 

[HRDROKN]

That's a SkyJacker adjustable draglink.

Donald... you just thought of everything and here I thought it was just a stock part

 

[EarlKann]

Donald... you just thought of everything and here I thought it was just a stock part

:-laf Hey, I put some good stuff on there before I handed it over to you. I was gonna get to those injectors/gov spring etc... I don't know if I would have done the 5-speed though, that's cool. Oo.

 

[EarlKann]

Hans,

As far as your original issues, I don't know about the dead spot, but I'd check to see if you have the same amount of turns in each direction. If your steering wheel is off center you may be able to turn it further in one direction than the other. If that is the case you will need the pitman arm and/or the adjustable drag link to re-center your steering box. If your turning is the same in both directions I think that you can undo the steering shaft at the box and rotate it to center the steering wheel again. Does that make sense? I'll take a look for you and see if I still have that used drag link.



As far as the alignment, the springs shouldn't have changed anything. But if you needed an alignment before the springs you still need one.

 

[BHiggins]

My last truck had the 2. 5" Skyjackers and the only problem I had was the steering wheel off-center (so no, you don't need the pitman arm). I just removed the Borgesen joint and re-installed it in the center to straighten out the wheel. If you don't have the Borgesen joint, now would be a good time to get one. They come with detailed instuctions on how to mount it when the set screw doesn't line up with the existing "flat spot" on the steering box shaft. As far as the "dead spot", check for play in the steering box. You can adjust the play out of those boxes most of the time. On the top of the box there is a small set screw with an allen type head on it, it has a 5/8 lock nut holding it in place. Loosen the 5/8 nut and turn the allen key in to remove the play. A LITTLE BIT GOES A LONG WAY, DON'T TURN THE ALLEN KEY MORE THAN 1/4 TURN. Any more than that can cause binding. Make sure to hold the allen key in place when you re-tighten the 5/8 lock nut to keep it from turning more than you want. If there is still excessive play, you need a new steering box (I just went through this procedure with my '92 and I ended up replacing the box).

 

[HSchroen]

Cool, well after reading all the responses I think maybe what i feel is just play in the steering box, exacerbated by the steering wheel being off center now. I think I'll start with a Borgeson shaft to straighten the wheel and go from there.



I was actually kicking it around driving the truck to Vegas next week for Mopars at the Strip!

 

[HSchroen]

Looking good. I forgot, do you have the Cummins in it already? Engine pics???

Yes, she's done! Here is an engine pic from a few months ago.





Well, its not letting me add the pic here... its already in the Cummins Crew cab Conversion thread in the Conversion forum.

 

[TKingsbury]

If your wheel WAS straight before, and it isn't now, you NEED to correct it. Your geometry was changed when you lifted it. You can do a dropped pitman are, or a block under the steering arm on the axle. Either way is ok.

Travis. .

 

[boatpuller]

The only geometry that changed is the distance between the steering box and the axle, caster, camber and toe should not have changed. As long as the steering will go to the stop in both directions it will hurt nothing to rotate the steering shaft to straighten out the wheel. Installed the 2 1/2" Softrides over 70,000 miles ago and didn't bother with an alignment and straightened out the wheel by rotating my Borgeson at the steeringbox input. I did have a bit of abnormal wear on the inside of the front tires due to the upper kingpin bushings being shot on my truck, that will also change the position of the steering wheel if one side is worn more than the other.

Personally if your tires were wearing fine before the springs I wouldn't even worry about an alignment, just straighten out the wheel and call it good.



Happy Rammin,

Caleb

 

[TKingsbury]

Yes, you are correct that the only thing that has changed is the relationship between the box and the axle. I'll give another reason to do something about it, or at least something to check. Look at the joint on the draglink at the pitman arm (you may have to disassemble and remove the dust boot to check this). Is it nearly maxed out? What about when you droop the left side of the axle, does it run out of room to flex? If so, you run a great risk of bending or breaking your draglink. Not to mention you may have bump-steer problems.

Travis. .

 

[boatpuller]

With the front of the truck jacked up by the frame and the axle hanging down

it looked fine, the joint didn't look like it was in a bind, I checked this out when I installed the springs, couldn't find any position of the axle that made the joints on either end of the draglink look like they were in a bind. I think if you went much more than 2 1/2" then you would probably need the dropped Pitman arm or spacers.



Caleb