Update on fuel leak

[The patriot]

Well I found the rubber line on my fuel return. Must have been one devious ba$tard who designed this.
For those that havent done this yet, the factory hose clamps are 9/32. I found a nut driver to be much easier to use rather than a screwdriver. (have to feel what youre doing. Cant really see it)
You'll want to time this with a fuel filter replacement.
IMO this has to be done from the top. You'd have to have arms like a gorilla to reach it from under the truck, lying on the ground like I was. If you have a lift, you might better off under it.
The line that came off my truck was almost 8" long. I suppose this can vary from year to year.
All in all it was . 78 and about an hour labor.
Eric
BTW The old hose didnt look all that bad. Just from looking at it I wouldnt think this was the leak. I hope it is. #ad


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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 275 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

[GeoVeo]

I had to replace mine last month, also did it from the top and by feel with a socket and spin-tight ratchet.
Mine had more than a leak - it was shooting a stream of fuel from just in front of the fuel filter. At first I thought the filter gasket had blown. When I got the hose off I couldn't see where it was leaking until I plugged one end and used the air host at the other. The hose looked fine other than some rather deep chaffing where it was rubbing on the filter mount - but that's not were it ruptured.

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'94 2500 Driftwood, Auto 4X4, 4. 10

 

[Missouri Mule]

Eric,
Are you sure you did not take off the supply line which should be much shorter than return line. The line you took off was behind fuel injection pump and fuel filter?
Or do you have auto trans that mite make line shorter? My return fuel line almost used up 24 inches(18 to 19).
The side facing engine was badly cracked.
Supply line looked great but changed it any way.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

 

[DOWG]

I replaced my return fuel line several months ago and found it to be only about 8" long. I was concerned about the length because I had read the TDR posts describing the return line as being much longer. However, after going from the bottom up and removing the starter to gain access, as suggested in previous posts, I found the both the supply and return lines running from the auto trans bell housing up to behind the fuel filter to be steel and not rubber fuel line as it was supposed to be. I replaced the starter and then from the top I removed the fuel filter (good time to change it anyway) and the removed the fuel filter mount from the block. At that point I could easily see both ends of the return fuel line and easily replaced the 8" section. I followed the fuel line plumbing and I am certain the return line on my truck was shorter than previously thought. As you suggested above, it appears the automatics have a shorter rubber return fuel line located directly behind the fuel filter.

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1998 Driftwood Extended Cab,Short Box,12 Valve,4X4,Auto,Dunrite TC,3. 54,Banks Plate,AFC Spring Kit,Isspro EGT,Rickson 19. 5's,Abbott EPRA, Rancho Shocks,Heim Trackbar,Mag-Hytec transmission Pan & Pumpkin Cover,Amzoil Synthetic's,Ranchhand Bull Nose Front Bumper, Headache Rack,Tool Chest,Side Steps,Rear Bumper and 100% Stock Airconditioning.

 

[The patriot]

No Missouri Mule, mine is a stick and it is 8" long. Actually slightly under.
Probibally has been changed from 96 to 98 since Dowg's sounds the same. Except he has an auto.
Eric

 

[DieselB59]

Eric,

There were quite a few steel return lines (from the banjo fitting to the rubber hose) that were also bad from the factory and leaked where the brackets are spot welded to the line. This can also be a problem as it was with my truck.



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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
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Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.

 

[dieselburner]

Originally posted by DieselB59:
Eric,

There were quite a few steel return lines (from the banjo fitting to the rubber hose) that were also bad from the factory and leaked where the brackets are spot welded to the line. This can also be a problem as it was with my truck.

Yep, what he said. I lost the return low pressure metal line from the overflow valve at a mounting spot weld and the supply metal line from the fuel filter at the banjo fitting. They both ruptured from vibration at the welds. I replaced the low pressure side with rubber fuel line and silver soldered the supply.

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves

 

[The patriot]

Yup. Thats what mine's doing. I did the rubber but I keep finding fresh fuel on the steel return line by where the first bracket is. I'm finding it well forward of the rubber line, and mine wasnt leaking, but I'm glad I did it anyway.
I got a new steel line from dodge on friday ($64. 00) so I guess I'll be doing that tomorrow.
Between the replaced rubber hose, new air filter, and the valve adjustment, it's definetly running better. I think I also picked up about 20 RPM @ idle, and it's noticeably smoother.
I will probibally get it timed next.
Eric

 

[illflem]

Eric,it's too late now that you have the new line,but I know some folks have cut the metal return line short on both the engine and tank ends and replaced it with hose. Same can be done with the supply line. Besides being cheaper it makes it much easier to replace if the new hose should ever fail.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[The patriot]

Thanks Bill. I was giving that some serious consideration. We have miles of stainless tubing at work, I dont think a foot would be missed. #ad

I decided to go factory since occasionally the wife drives it. Dont want nothing to go wrong on her.
Eric