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Upgraded radiator options

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RBeard

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Developed a pin hole leak in my OEM Radiator today and want to look at my options. Does anybody sell a better than OEM radiator that will fit in the OEM hole and bolt up without any mods.
 
I would suggest staying with an OEM, two core, that your computer is "aware of", unless you tow ALOT! Ordering an aftermarket radiator from wherever, is a crapshoot. They are a delicate item that more than likely will suffer scars of transport I call it. Buy or order from your favorite local parts place. Might be a couple bucks extra, but worth the aggravation of sending a damaged, shipped radiator from who knows where. Been there, done that like many others. If you're looking for better cooling, add a water-wetter, google that my friend. Just a bottle of stuff, again at your local parts store that changes/helps the chemical composition of the water molecule.
 
I had a Mishimoto radiator on my former 09 Ram 5500. It is well built, high quality and has a lifetime warranty. I had researched aftermarket radiators and this one came out on top. Got it at Amazon.

Sure beats the ones with plastic. Had no impact on truck electronics. Because truck has thermostat, you don't see cooler truck. Just doesn't get as hot towing heavy, which is why I bought it. And lifetime replacement warranty added to deal.

Just my two cents.

Cheers, Ron
 
I'm more than happy with my Icebox radiator from https://radiatorsupplyhouse.com/ Made in the USA, steel end caps, no plastic. I had one made with 4 rows and I no longer have to drive with one eye on the temp gauge no matter how hot or how heavy. Not cheap, but when I bought mine it was less than the Mishimoto.
 
Thank to all for the info. looked at all the options and have one more question. Would I benefit from going to a 4 row instead of a 3 row. (only $30 more). It's really hot in S. Tx and I haul moderately heavy alot.
 
Just an update on my search. I ordered a 4 row and they sent me a message that they are out of stock. I ordered a 3 row and installed it, 500 miles later all is good. once the t-stat opens the guage stays just right of the 190 mark.
 
Just an update on my search. I ordered a 4 row and they sent me a message that they are out of stock. I ordered a 3 row and installed it, 500 miles later all is good. once the t-stat opens the guage stays just right of the 190 mark.

What and where did you get it? No pictures? Towing or empty?
 
3 Row all aluminum Radiator from ebay $169 delivered, simple R&R. only mods. were Pos. Battery crossover cable has to be bolted to fan shroud(no studs on top of rad. like OEM) and changed drain plug to petcock. Truck empty-needle sticks to 190 mark after warm-up, Truck with G.N. trailer loaded to 14,500 gvw with hay rolls- needle wanders a little on small rolling hills, but never passed ~210* on 98-100*day at 65 mph with A/C on.
 
Thanks for the report. I am always interested in radiator threads. Do you have any power mods at all? I am still running the stock type 2 core in my '01. Empty or small loads all is well but heavy loads, steep ground and hot weather I have to baby it. I do have power mods.
 
I have an older model Edge set to the lowest setting, which is IIRC 25hp and 50#tq additional(Not running full guages to be able to run hotter). I had 285k miles on the OEM radiator upon R&R. I tore it apart to recycle it and found the top 50% was remarkably clean and shiny, but the bottom 50% was clogged and corroded more than I expected. It cooled better than I thought it would after looking at the core. I flushed and filled every 3 yrs. or so.
P.S.- I do enjoy not hearing the fan engaging all the time while going down the road. :D:D
 
I installed a Mish radiator and it is expensive but I like it for towing but be aware that using the stock bolts to reattach the fan shroud will cause problems. The stock ones are too long (the rad comes with shorter ss ones) and when you screw them into the radiator they will poke a hole in the side of the radiator. You probably won't know about it until you remove the stock bolts at some point in the future. That's what I did. Removed them to replace my fan clutch and antifreeze came shooting out of the holes. I got a replacement from Mish with only needing to photo document it. I was stunned when I got the replacement and there was no notice on the installation instructions about this. I guess the way they look at it is it's only a problem when you remove the bolts and most people never do that after initial installation. Oh well, at least they stood by their warranty.
 
3 Row all aluminum Radiator from ebay $169 delivered, simple R&R. only mods. were Pos. Battery crossover cable has to be bolted to fan shroud(no studs on top of rad. like OEM) and changed drain plug to petcock. Truck empty-needle sticks to 190 mark after warm-up, Truck with G.N. trailer loaded to 14,500 gvw with hay rolls- needle wanders a little on small rolling hills, but never passed ~210* on 98-100*day at 65 mph with A/C on.

That's a pretty good price. I installed a Mishimoto On my 09 4500 when the OEM radiator plastic endcap started leaking. Although expensive ~$700, but the all aluminum construction and quality was impressive. They had an OEM style radiator, but I decided ALL aluminum only for me.

Anyway, glad you found something that works for a good price.

Cheers, Ron
 
Been watching these radiator threads.
Last time I had a load on my 98 was about 18K gross
It seems it's always hot whenever I tow any weight. The travel trailer isnt very stealth in the aero dept. Stock original radiator.
Factory gauge never went beyond 1/2 gauge. Whatever temp that may be.
My habit of over PM'ing the cooling system seems to be paying off.


Edit: I dont know how to post my profile anymore
1998 qc 12v 4x4 140K `ish
stock except for Pier's 370 injectors.
Timing @ 18 deg
 
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