Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Upgrades for DANA 60

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff
Status
Not open for further replies.
My front end is in need of Balljoints, brake pads, Diff fluid change - Blah blah blah. I'm getting pricing currently to change from 3. 54's to 4. 10's and was thinking...

While I have it all apart is there anything I should upgrade? Axle shafts anything like that. I'm not an avid sledpuller but would like to be confident it's not going to break. I'm also considering changing to locking hubs.

With all the weight up front including my new 12k winch it will make me feel better knowing that it's somewhat bulletproof. ;)
 
Mactruck said:
... is there anything I should upgrade? Axle shafts anything like that. I'm not an avid sledpuller but would like to be confident it's not going to break. I'm also considering changing to locking hubs.

With all the weight up front including my new 12k winch it will make me feel better knowing that it's somewhat bulletproof. ;)



A couple of things come to mind.



First of all, unfortunately our Dana 60s effectively have some Dana 44 size parts in them. You mention you're considering lockout hubs. Dynatrac offers a kit for converting our Dana 60s to lockout hubs which include Dana 60 size parts to replace the weak links, so you would kill two birds with one stone by doing this. It's not cheap, something like $2,400 last time I checked.



The other thing you might consider is an Air Locker up front.
 
I was just talking with someone at Dynatrac because I am wanting to make this upgrade as well in the foreseeable future. It's a good news/bad news thing. The bad news is that DC changed the knuckle/balljoint design in 2000 on the Dana 60 front axle (same on both 2300 & 3500) so the hub conversion kit that Dynatrac offers only fits the '94-'99 y. m. Ram 4x4s at this time.



I was also informed that the bearings in this new design for '00-'02 are NOT replaceable and they only come as an assembly from DC for $400 each! :--)



Yeah, that's really an 'improvement' in design! (But we apparently are not alone as this is also the case with the droF owners as well. )



The good news is that Dynatrac is working on developing a hub conversion kit for our '00-'02 Rams and they *might* have it available by the first of the year. Their website is www.dynatrac.com - if anyone else is interested I would suggest giving them a call and let them know that others are very interested in doing this. ;)
 
Kevin: Keep it stock and call it a day.



That truck of yours doesn't ever go off paved roads, right? I'd spend the $$ someplace, else... if I were you.



Heck, most of the sled pulling folks don't do much of anything to their D60's until something breaks. They usually just upgrade the front driveshaft/yoke/U-joints... slap an ARB locker in there... and call it a day.



Stronger stub axles (axle shafts) wouldn't hurt... but it's a game of cost effectiveness. How much do you plan on breaking? It has held up just fine so far...



Don't take this the wrong way - but it just seems like complete oober overkill to me.



Matt



P. S. If you want the phone # of a guy I talked to a few times that has a Dana 80 underneath the FRONT end of his 2nd Gen dually... . let me know. He already had the Dana 135 out of the F*rd F-550 hanging out back when I saw it last...
 
Yeah Matt, it's way expensive alright, but personally I just wanna make those components which shouldn't be spinnin' in the first place to stop when not actually being used, such as the axle u-joints which cannot be lubed and are a PITA to replace. The only way to do that is install lockout hubs via a conversion. And I suppose some factors would be how long one expects to own their truck, how many miles they intend to put on it, whether they believe in preemptive action to solve potential problems over the long run, and whether they find it cost effective for themselves. It is pretty expensive to do.



BTW, I am wondering how differently your friend's truck handles now with the huge increase in unsprung weight of those heavier axles? Talk about overkill...
 
Last edited:
I take it off road every once in a while ;)

HoleshotHolset said:
Kevin: Keep it stock and call it a day.



That truck of yours doesn't ever go off paved roads, right? I'd spend the $$ someplace, else... if I were you.





#ad
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What is it that you all have refered to as D44 sized? I don't have much experience with these axles yet to know. I just tore down my driver side knuckle not even an hour ago... the u joint in the axle only turns on one axis- probably why the bearings went down. Anyway, i've never seen a locking hub that will stand up to what a solid flange hub will. Ofcourse I'm young and the right amount of money will make anything indestructable. Dollar to dollar, for sled pulling, keep the flange hubs. Nothing should blow in that front end unless you get a moderate wheel speed/bounce situation, which is rare in sled pulling. Maybe go with the new CTM u joints with brass (i think they're brass anyway) bushings rather than needle bearings. That should ease some worries. And don't put conventional greese on anything when you put it back together. I read on here that it liquifies and leaves the hub. . It's very true. Put whatever it is that DC specifies. (I'll get to find that out tomorrow)
 
biggy238 said:
What is it that you all have refered to as D44 sized? I don't have much experience with these axles yet to know. I just tore down my driver side knuckle not even an hour ago... the u joint in the axle only turns on one axis- probably why the bearings went down. Anyway, i've never seen a locking hub that will stand up to what a solid flange hub will. Ofcourse I'm young and the right amount of money will make anything indestructable. Dollar to dollar, for sled pulling, keep the flange hubs. Nothing should blow in that front end unless you get a moderate wheel speed/bounce situation, which is rare in sled pulling. Maybe go with the new CTM u joints with brass (i think they're brass anyway) bushings rather than needle bearings. That should ease some worries. And don't put conventional greese on anything when you put it back together. I read on here that it liquifies and leaves the hub. . It's very true. Put whatever it is that DC specifies. (I'll get to find that out tomorrow)



I have a (I believe) Four Wheeler magazine around here somewhere from a couple of years ago and in there was an article going into detail over this conversion. That's where I came up with this info and I can't find that magazine just at the moment. As I recall they were talking about the spindles and/or the outer axles. Whatever the difference is, it is considerable with respect to serious off-roading.



Now I can completely appreciate what y'all are saying insofar as sled pulling goes, and I agree - for that application. It would not make any sense to make this hub conversion/bomb to a truck that is mostly used 'off-road' to pull sleds, seeing how the stock hub would be superior for such an application.



My concern is with respect to the "moderate wheel speed/bounce situation" you're talkin' about, especially under a load on the outer limits of the capability of the truck itself when off-road. I don't plan on any sled pulling. To me it's just another necessary mod because DC didn't get it right on the drawing board, like other things we have to deal with - like what we have to go through to keep our 4x4 front ends to act like they're supposed to in the first place.
 
In your case I agree totally with a hub conversion. I also think you're right about the stub shafts being the 44 size pieces. I have a sheared off unit in the driveway i'm gonna check out for size tomorrow after work. I like the Idea of taking a rig this size out into the world, I think it demonstrates a skill level unknown to lots of jeepers, But I think the D60 is totally obsolete for that ragged edge performance in a rig as heavy as ours tend to be. Not to mention the cummins engines find the quickest route to the bottom of mudholes. Mines pushing 10k in a single rear wheel model, with low range and a big enough rock i could grenade the front right now.



I like the idea of these drivetrains in broncos and scouts. It's an awesome balance of weight/strenth/power.



To get beck on track of the pulling question. Upgrade your joints and throw in a locker if you feel you need it. I haven't seen to many streetable sled pullers that run lockers, but they do exist. It's whatever you feel gets you to the next level.
 
Sorry I was not more clear in my off-road use. It is for work, not play, therefore I am unlikely to go mudboggin' or rockcrawlin'. I am more likely to be moving some load and need the extra meat to get the job done without letting me down. It's just a thought anyway, 'cause right now there is no such animal for the '00s - '02s, unless one wants to spend $12k for a custom made Dynatrac front axle.

:--)
 
Nice Photoshop job, Kevin. :-laf



Show us a picture with some soot coming out the pipe... that way we know you're beating on it enough to justify the better parts. :)



Matt
 
for the complete stage 3 dodge d60 dynatrac upgrade kit is more like $3500. now it will be bad assed and as long as you wheel it could be worth it.
 
here's some articles on upgrading a 60s more geared to ropckcrawling but still good information

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index2.html

here's the 60 bible

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html

at home ultimate 60 build

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index.html



maybe you can use some of this maybe you can't but thought I'd introduce it in case it might help you find some other than dynatrack who would have improved parts for your trucks



-ben
 
Shifting gears here. :)

I have concluded that putting locking hubs in the front end would be nice but not necessary. (and to darn expen$ive)



However I'm still thinking about upgrading my Axle shafts to 35 spline from my Dodge OEM 30 spline. If i'm going to get a new Ring and pinion this is the time to do it. It also shouldn't conflict with the stock 4wd engagement.



On the flip side the statements that I've read here it seems that the 30 spline should be fine for my truck. Is that what I'm gathering???



Oh Holeshot - I have many more of those "Photoshop" pic's for ya ;)

Including a few I took with my SLR. :-laf
 
Yeah I think you should be fine with 30 spline equipment. And thank you for making that statement because i have just logged on here to ask how many splines these rigs have. I put mine together in such a hurry that I didn't count. I guess I was overjoyed that my hub went back together so easily.
 
Dynatrac’s Dodge Hub Conversion Kit



Overview



Dynatrac’s Dodge Hub Conversion Kit is the perfect answer to 1994 to 1999 Dodge 2500 owners who need greater bearing and axle shaft strength in their Dana 60 front end. The kit, which comes in 3 stages, replaces the OEM live spindle/ hub assembly with a Heavy Duty, Dana 70 fixed spindle and hub unit designed for the loads and stresses of large tires and heavy trucks. Stage II and Stage III kits also upgrade the inner axle shafts for hardcore off road use.



Benefits



Manual locking hubs reduce wear and increase fuel economy by preventing parts from rotating constantly during 2WD operation.

Increases reliability by eliminating troublesome axle disconnect operation.

Lower cost of ownership – Wheel bearings and seals are dramatically cheaper to maintain, and can be easily serviced for longer life, even under severe conditions.

Dramatic increase in axle strength and reliability with 35-spline 1. 50” shafts.

All kits include Spicer 1480 series axle u-joints.

Simple, bolt on installation. No machining or welding.

Can be upgraded for factory ABS compatibility.

Dynatrac’s Dodge Hub Conversion Kit



Stage I Kit CR60-2X1104-A $1795

Stage II Kit CR60-2X1104-B $2895

Stage III Kit CR60-2X1104-C $3195



Stage I Kit



2 8 on 6. 5 Dynatrac wheel hubs (customer to re-use rotor)

2 Heavy duty spindle kits

2 Dynatrac rotor adapters

2 Dynatrac Heavy Duty outer axle shafts

2 Spicer 1480 series axle joint

1 Set of Warn Heavy Duty manual locking hubs (30 spline)

1 Dynatrac vacuum motor Lock-in retainer (to keep motor engaged)



Stage II Kit – Greater Inner Axle Strength, 35 Spline Inners



2 Extreme Duty Induction Hardened Alloy 35 spline 1. 5” diameter Inner axle shafts

1 LH Inner axle seal

1 LH seal housing

1 35 Spline Carrier side gears



Stage III Kit – Ultimate Axle Strength, 35 Spline Inner and Outers



2 Extreme Duty Induction Hardened Alloy 35 spline 1. 5” diameter Outer axle shafts

1 Set of Warn Premium Heavy Duty manual locking hubs (35 spline)

*All kits include inner and outer wheel bearings, races, and seals plus all hardware*



************from their website**************
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top